Okay Any Mini Rex Rabbit People Out here>>??

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Sun Runner Stables

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: I was bad, I have to admit it. I promised myself to just Look not buy at the fair... Right.

Well Thanks to the burning hole in my pocket and about 10 sad looking barn kids, I am now the Very proud owner of two mini rex rabbits. We built a Huge rabbity hutch today, (about 12 feet long ad 3 ft wide) and have named them Mister and Misus Bunny, respectivly. My entire barn Loves them, and so do I. They are the "broken" colored ones, (Think black lep appy!) very sweet and cuddly and calm.
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But now here comes the q's. I had bunnies all my life as a small child. But now would like to have a litter or two a year. I know they breed like, well, rabbits, so they have seperate little 'rooms' in the bunny house, so Mr. ans Mrs. Bunny can't make More bunnies unless said bunnies have homes spoken for them...So what else do I need to know about Bunnies that one normally would not? They already have pine cones to chew on, store bought chewies, alfalfa cubs, and rabbit pellets, vitamin supplement in the water bottles, as well as lots of straw bedding with shavings underneath for absorbtion. I have now found that people Show Bunnies?? :new_shocked: My SH is going to Kill me....

So what can you guys tell me about bunnies??
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These Are Not mine, but to show thier color pattern Only...
 
YOur gonna want a nest box for the female that is private. We put a bit of hay in there but she will pull her hair to put in there as well.

I would recommend haveing the floor of the rabbit cage mesh wire. That way the dropings drop out and it stays cleaner and nicer for them.

We keep a non stop supplie of pellets and water to them. THey will get occasional hand picked grass, or carrots and letuce.

YOur gonna wanna trim there nails as well.

We had a mini rex once but my new favorite is the angora.
 
Oh I love the Rex! I raised and showed rabbits for years when the kids wer younger. I loved it. You need to go to the ARBA web site. Look up the mini rex and learn more. Click on shows in your area to see when and where. Go watch. It's a hoot. No halter classes here. Just keep them in good coat and not too fleshy. NO grass at all. The hay is good, apples carrots cheerios. Excellent quality bunny pellet food, clean fresh water at all times. If you have a cotton glove dampen it and run it on the fur to loosen and remove dead hairs and freshen the coat. Rabbits are very clean. Feel free to PM me with any specific questions. Have a blast!
 
I am breeding mini lops next year. I would provide hay, they like chewing on it more.

A few pieces of carrot, broccoli, romaine lettuce (not too much), parsley, or other greens is good to give.

If you start noticing some flies coming around I would add a table spoon of vanilla extract to their water. It prevents fly strike.
 
First hit the ARBA website lots of info if you are even thinking about showing or breeding. If these bunnies are to be pets then a good bunny pellet and fresh water hay a couple times a week and minimal treats, carrot, apple, pear, dandelion, etc....very sparingly........if you intend to breed you do not want them getting too fat (easy to do with mini rex) the only time you want to feed ad lib with pellets is after they kindle and are nursing...and then to groups of weaners.....

bunnies are in season 14 out of ever 16 days :new_shocked: they are induced ovulators...so being bred leads to ovulating......they kindle 28-34 days later...nest box should go in on day 28 if she hasn't kindled by day 34 either she isn't bred or she has died. She will pull copious amounts of hair usually to fill the nest box and mama rabbits do not like being disturbed for the most part and will eat their young if they feel threatened.........they feed the bunnies only once or twice a day makes winter babies easier when you can bring the nest box inside to keep it warm and take it out for feeding twice a day. The baby bunnies start to come out of the nest box by 10-11 days...be sure you used cage wire made for rabbits as these popcorn babies can fall through wire if it is spaced to large...even on the sides of a cage....

yep people show rabbits we used to show 3 breeds
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Oh how FUN!!! I used to breed and raise the minis. What I learned is I had to remove the male bunny because my female would beat him up after they bred. I kept them separate until breeding time and only kept them together a few hours. Have fun...the babies are sooo adorable!! Whhen you first handle the babies they are as wild as a "March Hare". :bgrin Then they get used to it after a while.
 
"I have now found that people Show Bunnies??"

LOL! Oh, people show everything. Bunnies, guinea pigs, rats, mice, fish...

Anyway, congratulations on your new additions! For a bit I raised Mini Lops and Netherland Dwarfs for 4H. You've been given some great advice already, but please be sure those little ones don't overheat in the summer... :new_shocked:
 
:aktion033: Hi everyone!

OKay, got most everything straightend out, they are settling in nicely! The male is Much more jumpy then the girl is, I am told this is normal? I trimed nails today, and they were both Very good bunnies. I currently have large amount of straw towards the back of the cage, and added some fresh hay, along with other food items. The bottom is wire, with a tray underneath to catch bunny poo. Will they munch on the straw too much? Would that be harmful to them? Would a litter box be a better idea?

For the baby bunnies, the wire is about 1 centimeter sq, is that to large for bunny paws? I can easily put a soild floor in for them...

I noticed today that she has thinner hair up on her back, I am thinking she was caged in a small space? Not sure why else she would be missing hair there. Any ideas>?

Went to the ARBA, apparently, (should have figured This out) bunnies need to be registered to be shown, and of course, mine are not. However, I am not to worried about this, at the point I dedcide I have Time to show bunnies, is about the time I need to start seeing a head doc!

On the show bunny note thing, I saw on a website, having a hack saw blade to improve your bunnies coat? :new_shocked: A Hack saw blade, and a bunny just do Not seem to go together...

Holy lots of bunnies, good thing they are seperate! I am waiting to see if she is already bred, as I realize coming from where they did, there's a good chance of that. Out of curisoity, Would it be okay to put him in, he wouldn't force her would he??
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: I do Not want bunny rape in My barn!

For summer, I was thinking of giving them small fans in their bunny hutch, (wires running Outside the cage of course!) are there other things I can do? Summer's in about a month here in FL.

I have been trying to do more homework, but geesh, half of these websites are not current, the others are all on poorly done sites, anyone have bunny sites for me?? Oh or a Bunny forum?? :saludando:
 
I used to run misters for my bunnies, in addition to fans. They were also always kept under a shade. One particularily hot summer we still lost several due to the intense heat. If I were ever to have bunnies again they would be kept strictly indoors... :no:
 
They are currently under the "shade" of my barn overhang in the front, and also have a slanted wood 'roof' JIC any rain could silp in, I am assuming getting wet is not Bunny friendly?

I will put misters in the cages too, I am afraid with the Size of the cage, truly indoors is just not an option at this point. Though, if I see discomfort, I can easily move them into the house in smaller 'rooms'.

Do bunnies feel very upset when changing homes?
 
I would put the misters near the cage so they can cool the air around it and not mist so much on the bunnies. I've had some bunnies that didn't mind moving around at all but not all are as okay with it.
 
:aktion033: Hi everyone!

OKay, got most everything straightend out, they are settling in nicely! The male is Much more jumpy then the girl is, I am told this is normal? I trimed nails today, and they were both Very good bunnies. I currently have large amount of straw towards the back of the cage, and added some fresh hay, along with other food items. The bottom is wire, with a tray underneath to catch bunny poo. Will they munch on the straw too much? Would that be harmful to them? Would a litter box be a better idea?

For the baby bunnies, the wire is about 1 centimeter sq, is that to large for bunny paws? I can easily put a soild floor in for them...

I noticed today that she has thinner hair up on her back, I am thinking she was caged in a small space? Not sure why else she would be missing hair there. Any ideas>?

Went to the ARBA, apparently, (should have figured This out) bunnies need to be registered to be shown, and of course, mine are not. However, I am not to worried about this, at the point I dedcide I have Time to show bunnies, is about the time I need to start seeing a head doc!

On the show bunny note thing, I saw on a website, having a hack saw blade to improve your bunnies coat? :new_shocked: A Hack saw blade, and a bunny just do Not seem to go together...

Holy lots of bunnies, good thing they are seperate! I am waiting to see if she is already bred, as I realize coming from where they did, there's a good chance of that. Out of curisoity, Would it be okay to put him in, he wouldn't force her would he??
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: I do Not want bunny rape in My barn!

For summer, I was thinking of giving them small fans in their bunny hutch, (wires running Outside the cage of course!) are there other things I can do? Summer's in about a month here in FL.

I have been trying to do more homework, but geesh, half of these websites are not current, the others are all on poorly done sites, anyone have bunny sites for me?? Oh or a Bunny forum?? :saludando:
nonono hold on bunnies do not need to be registered to show just to get their championship.......they can be registered with a pedigree showing their parentage and an inspection by a judge...piece of cake and compared to horses dirt cheap. In fact you can show the bunny earn the 3 legs then register and send in the legs for your championship status.

cage wire sounds perfect

Straw if fine.....eating it also helps reduce hairball impaction

her hair may be thin due to molting BUT if it is just the back of the neck that is how it grows on most all breeds

yes if you put him in you will have bunny rape..common thing in the bunny world...you will know a breeding was successful if he jumps on and uh humps like crazy then falls over backwards...good sign he got her..should only take 30 seconds to 2 minutes tops.

ok on the hack saw blade.....uh never heard that one probably a dull one used kinda like a shedding blade would be my guess...a soft slicker brush and damp hands work as well......also with the rex...less grooming is better you want good density and regular grooming will thin the fur.

fans work fine also you can put pop bottles of water that have been frozen in the cage and they will lay next to them if they get too hot...for shows frozen bottles fans and towels (you can wet theses lay over the cage and aim the fan creates nice cool breeze)

as for websites I don't know of any offhand....there was a fun forum of bunny people will see if I can track it down

man you are so in for it...if you have shows close by a person can get hooked FAST they are reasonable to enter and alot of fun...then you will see all those other breeds and well kinda like potato chips cant show just one type :bgrin :bgrin :bgrin :bgrin
 
You can freeze plastic soda pop bottles (remove the label) about 3/4ths full of water. They like to lay next to them and lick them. We change them every couple of hours or as soon as they melt.
 
I hate to drag this thread all the way to the top again...but I was on a hitaus...and I cannot resist a chance to talk about bunnies!

I breed and show Holland Lop bunnies! I used to have a Mini Rex as well.

If the short hair you noticed is in the middle of the back it is probably due to molting. Some Mini Rex rabbits molt VERY funny. I would make sure they have a place in their hutch to rest thier feet. Mini Rex's are very prone to sore hocks if they have not been selectively bred for thicker foot pads. It is a rather rampant problem in the breed.

As for imporving coat, all I do is add a teaspoon of black oil sunflower seeds and a teaspoon of rolled oats in their bowls in the morning. I feed the grain as soon as I wake up, and an huor later I got back out and feed their pellets. I found if I mixed the grain in with their pellets they would just scratch the feed out to get at the good stuff. The BOSS really puts the shine on their coat. You have to be careful with some rabbits as it can really cause them to pack on the weight too.

The biggest mistake in feeding show rabbits is over feeding them. For Mini Rex's your desired weight for a senior Mini Rex is 3 to 4 1/2 pounds for bucks and 3 1/4 to 4 1/2 pounds for does. I usually feed about one ounce of pellets for every pound the rabbit weighs. Basically every rabbit is different. You want to make sure the rabbit is fleshy enough so you don't have bones sticking out, but not so fleshy that the rabbit looks or feels fat. It can be a difficult balance to achieve.

I am a big believer in feeding hay. I think it helps to reduce boredom. Rabbits, a lot like horses were meant to be chewing for a large portion of thier day. Rabbit in the wild are most active at dawn and dusk and do most of their eating at these times. This is when I find it is best to feed them and they have the best appetites at this time.

If you are planning on doing any showing, do not worry about the registration. Registration is not required for a rabbit to show. What is required for a rabbit to show however, is a clear, legible ear tattoo. Some breeders like having all their stock registered, but it is not a necessity. If your rabbit earns three Grand Champion Legs at shows (You need 3 legs for a Grand Champion Certificate), you will need to get your rabbit registered to get a Grand Champion certificate so you can officially have a Grand Champion Rabbit. In order to get registered your rabbit has to have a complete and up to date three generation pedigree.

If you plan on keeping and showing some offspring I would recommend you either buy a solid colored doe or buck to add to your collection. Breeding two broken rabbits together is not usually recommended by breeders because it results in some rabbits that will be "Charlies" in your litter. That is, broken colored rabbit who are too lightly marked to be shown.

Good luck. You better pray you don't get bit by the bunny bug! If you do there is no turning back.
 
HI

I used to breed and show opal rex, orange and black rex rabbits and most of the advise you have been given is good......

I would recommend haveing the floor of the rabbit cage mesh wire. That way the dropings drop out and it stays cleaner and nicer for them.

..cept for this bit..... Rabbits were not designed to spend time on wire...it will eventually cause them to have sore infected feet.....not an easy thing to deal with in rabbits......so if you want to keep them happy and healthy, allow them to settle and they will pick a poo corner themselves (we had house rabbits also and they are very clean and easy to house train) and you just pick that out every other day. The colour of rex you have (if they are both spotty) is dalmatian rex. (unless they go by a different name in america
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And I WOULD let them out to graze for a while every day...they love it and its not the grass that makes them overweight......its the pellets and the treats. Feel free to contact me, I was a veterinary nurse who was very involved in setting up a "rabbit friendly| vets (specialising) and also worked a lot with homeopathy which often works better for rabbits than regular medicine.

have fun...they are soooo soft arent they??!! :aktion033:
 
I disagree with the comment about wire floors. As long as the rabbit has a resting board or a nesting box to rest their feet when they want to, wire floors are much, much cleaner and much more sanitary than solid floored cages. Wire floors will not harm your rabbit's feet as long as they have an area to rest AND they had good thick footpads to begin with.

I found solid floors in wooden hutch soaked in the urine and the ammonia smell was terrible, even when I cleaned the hutch every other day. I had problems with hutch burn and sore hocks, not to mention my nice black and white bunnies turning black and yellow.

Rabbits are very sensitive to ammonia and this can get them sick very easily. That is the big reason I stay away from solid floored cages.

If you keep your rabbit indoors however, with a cage with a plastic floor, solid floored cages are not a problem because the plastic doesn't absorb the urine. As long as you clean the cage in a timely manner! I clean my rabbit barn and my cage pans every other day or at least every three days.
 

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