you CAN change their position, but it is a real pain in the neck. You basicly cut them at the joints then warm up the plastic with a heat gun just enough to make the area pliable, but overdo it and they blow up, blister or just plain melt. Then after you get all the pieces where you want them you go back over the rough areas with gapoxio or apoxie sculpt and resculpt the joints. This is when you make your new manes and tails, etc. as well. I have a Peter Stone chip (stablemate size) drafter that I basicly cut his lower jaw off and remade it tiny layer by tiny layer so that he now has bared teeth and his ears laid back. He still has a looong way to go before I am ready to show him off. Adding new manes and tails isn't very hard, but again, it takes a lot of time and tiny layers at a time in my experience. I know the pros can get through things pretty quickly, but for a newbie like me it takes a ton of time and patience. You don't even want to see the poor model that was my first attempt at repositioning....yikes!
-Amy
Here is a model that I carved out his ears and nostrils (as well as heel bulbs and made the frogs and bars). I also gave him a new mane and forlock as well as a thicker tail since he is going to represent a mini stallion. This is the stablemates warmblood mold, btw.
Here he is with color...still needs hooves and eyes done and the matt finish sealer to kill the glossy effect of my fixative spray.
Here is a shetland pony mold that had a TON of mane. I carved into that mess with my dremel and gave him a bridlepath and defined his ears. Little things like this are easy to do. (This is my almost finished representation of my good ol' pal Horse Heaven Acres Platinum Playboy...aka Coco Puffs)
and here are the pony and warmbloods as they originaly came: