Getting under himself and stretching on the lunge

[WashingtonCowgirl]

How to build proper muscles? Spanky isn't one to work back on his hind, and that's something I'd like to change. I have long lines right now, but can pick up a surcingle and side reins if it will help. He also doesn't stretch down and out while on the lunge, no matter the gait, whether he is on a line or not, and no matter how long I lunge him. Its very frustrating. Any suggestions?

 

[MyBarakah]

Hi,

I think it would help with using a surcingle with side reins. I would also work on having him go over ground poles when you lunge him so he has to lift his back and use himself more. You could also work on working him on a slope or side of a hill to make him use himself. Also when you work him make sure that he is really extending his trot and really working at that trot. Also working on transitions from walk to trot, vise versa and trot to canter. Hope this helps.

 

[MiLo Minis]

Horses rarely offer to work off their back end as they are naturally front end heavy and move freely on their forehand basically pulling themselves along. The only time you usally see them voluntarily move off their hindquarters is if they are startled, excited or frightened and then it is only momentary. You need to teach him to use his hindquarters to push himself. Trotting poles and small jumps in a line will help him to develop his topline. If you don't know what to do with your hands on the longlines mechanical devices such as sliding side reins (I don't like fixed side reins on the lunge as they tend to create stiffness.)or a chambon will help encourage him to round his back as well. Transition exercises with lots of half halts will help rock him onto his haunches but be careful to build him up gradually because if you make him sore to start he will get tense and stiff and never get there for you. Look for relaxation before you start to ask for transitions and then keep it relaxed. On the longlines you can ask for halt, back and walk or trot once he has been built up a bit and is starting to get the idea.

 

[WashingtonCowgirl]

Thanks for the ideas! Looks like we have some new exercises to try on the lunge

 

[Riverdance]

Another way to get them to engage their rears while long lining is to drop the outside line around and behind their back legs, under their tail, Then use that line to encourage then to step forward from the rear, teaching them to round their backs, lift up their front ends and drive from the rear.

 

[AnnaC]

Well I'm going to recommend a totally different way to try (I'm well know for my odd ideas/way of thinking LOL!!)

Slow things down - no fast trotting - and no side reins. Use a proper cavasson properly fitted if you can get a mini one, or else use a headcollar with the metal squares either side of the noseband - you need to fix the lunge rein to the side of the headcollar for each rein, not to the ring under the 'chin'.

OK now start walking him in a small circle round you - about 8 feet away from you at the most, make sure that you always have the perfect triangle, with him as the long side, your lunge line in contact with the headcollar and your whip held close to his rear end at around hock height. If he is on the left rein anchor your left heel into the ground and turn on it as he goes round you - do not take a step from that spot - and alter this to your right heel on the right rein, your other leg will simply be stepping round your 'anchored' leg. This will give you a perfect circle!

When he is happily walking round in this 'strange to him' way, ask him to jog on, click at him and keep clicking with every step he takes - you are creating a rhythm to help him pick up the steps - click, click, click as he goes one two, one two (told you I was mad!!) He should be doing an ACTIVE, BOUNCY, SLOW TROT not a proper trot, think upward rather than forward. You may need a little practice to perfect it, but he will soon catch on and I guarentee that once perfected, he will stretch down after a couple of minutes!

This movement is difficult for a horse to maintain, especially until they get fitter, so after a couple of minutes (no more to start with) let the lunge rein flow out and allow/encourage him to trot on freely on a full circle to rest his muscles. Then a short walk round before switching sides and doing the whole exercise again on the other rein. When you start this, he will be quite tired at the end as he has done a lot with possibly unfit muscles so put him away and let him rest. As he gets fitter he can do more 'close circle' work, but by then you could increase the circle a bit to let you make the sessions a little longer, but a distance of 12 foot away from you is a bit too far for you to give a light tap if needed with your whip, 10 feet is about perfect.

Also please remember this way of working is like you going to the gym and 'setting too' without slowly warming up. So if he is coming from his stable/barn do give him a little hand walking first to loosen up his muscles and joints (dont do this by lunging on a big circle before you start!)

He will soon be 'bouncing' on his back legs and lightening his front end after a couple of weeks, plus it is a great way to get him fitter! But just take it steady and dont ask for too much too soon.

Sorry this is so long!! Hope you can make sense of it? If not post again and will try a different way of explaining. Good luck!!

 

[BlueStar]

Well I'm going to recommend a totally different way to try (I'm well know for my odd ideas/way of thinking LOL!!)

Slow things down - no fast trotting - and no side reins. Use a proper cavasson properly fitted if you can get a mini one, or else use a headcollar with the metal squares either side of the noseband - you need to fix the lunge rein to the side of the headcollar for each rein, not to the ring under the 'chin'.

OK now start walking him in a small circle round you - about 8 feet away from you at the most, make sure that you always have the perfect triangle, with him as the long side, your lunge line in contact with the headcollar and your whip held close to his rear end at around hock height. If he is on the left rein anchor your left heel into the ground and turn on it as he goes round you - do not take a step from that spot - and alter this to your right heel on the right rein, your other leg will simply be stepping round your 'anchored' leg. This will give you a perfect circle!

When he is happily walking round in this 'strange to him' way, ask him to jog on, click at him and keep clicking with every step he takes - you are creating a rhythm to help him pick up the steps - click, click, click as he goes one two, one two (told you I was mad!!) He should be doing an ACTIVE, BOUNCY, SLOW TROT not a proper trot, think upward rather than forward. You may need a little practice to perfect it, but he will soon catch on and I guarentee that once perfected, he will stretch down after a couple of minutes!

This movement is difficult for a horse to maintain, especially until they get fitter, so after a couple of minutes (no more to start with) let the lunge rein flow out and allow/encourage him to trot on freely on a full circle to rest his muscles. Then a short walk round before switching sides and doing the whole exercise again on the other rein. When you start this, he will be quite tired at the end as he has done a lot with possibly unfit muscles so put him away and let him rest. As he gets fitter he can do more 'close circle' work, but by then you could increase the circle a bit to let you make the sessions a little longer, but a distance of 12 foot away from you is a bit too far for you to give a light tap if needed with your whip, 10 feet is about perfect.

Also please remember this way of working is like you going to the gym and 'setting too' without slowly warming up. So if he is coming from his stable/barn do give him a little hand walking first to loosen up his muscles and joints (dont do this by lunging on a big circle before you start!)

He will soon be 'bouncing' on his back legs and lightening his front end after a couple of weeks, plus it is a great way to get him fitter! But just take it steady and dont ask for too much too soon.

Sorry this is so long!! Hope you can make sense of it? If not post again and will try a different way of explaining. Good luck!!

Both reins with this method or one rain at a time attached to the side your working on? This is interesting and I may try this myself! Thanks.

 

[horsesdances]

great idea AnnaC

mostly keep and invite the horse to relax. Without relaxation he cannot engage his back.

 

[AnnaC]

Blue Star, I have never tried this with two reins (one to each side as in long reining) as personally I would find it a bit of a handful to have one rein and the whip in my 'following' hand, and for this to work you need to keep a steady feel on the inside rein, and if you tried to keep an outside rein steady it would be against the horse and continually giving and taking slightly as his hindquarters moved - golly does that make sense, I've had a great Boxing Day with the family and admit to feeling a bit pi**ed!!

And yes, when lunging, always have the lunge rein attached to the 'D' pieces on the side of the headcollar - with a cavasson you would use the ring at the centre of the nose piece - never use the ring under the horse's chin as it prevents the horse from curving his head 'round' the circle correctly. (you could be really clever and stitch a ring at the centre of your headcollar's noseband to immitate that on a cavasson, but it is difficult to get a headcollar to fit tight enough to stop it pulling round and thereby bringing the far side cheek piece forward into the horse's eye.

I'll shut up my rambling now, think I need another drik - drink even!!

 

[rabbitsfizz]

I developed this for a Sec D Cob I was helping to retrain (well, I was retraining him, I just could not ride him!)

It is very very easy to make up (I used an old harness but any webbing would do) and it works. It is impossible for the horse to evade as nothing is fixed and it encourages, naturally, the horse to work off it's back end, engaging it's rear to rock forward into canter, instead of falling forward off a trot.

It got the cob off the bit, making him far lighter and easier to handle, and it will strengthen back and neck muscles as well. IT allows the horse to carry it's head wherever it wants, but encourages it to carry it in the best position for muscle development.