I Don't Know What to Do

[Performancemini]

Ok-have had dogs for years. Have done obediance and confirmation. So I am not totally ignorant and I weep and grieve myself sick whenever a dog had to be 'put down' at his end time. After the 'Sheltie years' , I got a Skipperke. He was a fun playful smart fellow. Had him almost 15 years! Age finally overcame him. My husband wanted to adopt this time. Went to a no-kill shelter and lo and behold-there was a Skipperkee! (probably wouldn't have been my husband's pick, but....). Anyway-he wasn't a bad little guy. Then my son came back home to live and brought his Australian cattle dog with. The Aussie took over the house (in a non-threatening way) and my guy no longer had his toys (Aussie would eat them), his space, etc. etc. Aussie goes. Things more back to normal, except Skip decides to mark the end of the bed (Aussie wasn't ever allowed in there when he lived here), and one corner of the couch occasionally (couch came after Aussie left). Skip is about 10 years old now. BUT-he is getting aggressive (IS aggressive). He will go after my husband's feet, ankles or calves and just tonight he actually punctured the skin. He sometimes goes after other people (we don't have many visitor's inside-and now I am afraid to). Vet and obediance instructor think he is protecting/owning me (I agree-BUT-it's still no good). If I would try to interfere in his "attack" he will grab at me too (of course).

We can't afford a lot of intensive training. I don't want him biting ANYONE- and he has been going after my husband too often now. Husband has never been harsh with the dog. I can't deal with much more. We can't afford to get sued either if he bites someone else. I don't want to rehome him (through a breed rescue) never knowing what lies in store for him-because I think this behavior will more or less go with him at his age. I guess my other way of thinking is the last resort-and is that right? It never feels right, even with a sick senior senior dog. I don't know..... some of you may have been there before. I am not horrid, just hurting.

 

[wade3504]

Have you had the vet check him out. We had a terrier mix that was good in the beginning and then started growling and snapping at people in the family. It got to the point where he even bit me and I was his favorite. It turns out he was quite sick.

 

[shorthorsemom]

I will write more later...

However, for a first recommendation I would say that this dog must be on a leash or in a crate and not allowed to free roam in the house right away.

Second. I agree with Wade above, must have dog checked out by vet. ear infections, bladder infections or stones or even senility can cause a dog to form un natural ideas about those folks in the house, kind of like doggie Alzheimers can trigger off behavior and guarding etc. I had a min pin that started guarding and attacking every thing and everybody in the house. She had dementia. She lived quite nicely on medication to help calm her brain waves for many years. Drugs is not always the answer and there are specific exercises you can do to change the dogs mind if the problem is behavior rather than dementia.

My recommendation is to leash the dog, and get a vet appointment to rule out health issues.

I will try to work out some training ideas you can try later. have to go help with milking the cows.

Know exactly what you are dealing with. My min pin was like that and I currently have an aged chinese crested that considers everybody a direct threat to me in his old age. He is never allowed to run free in my house when visitors are here and when it is just family, they are instructed to ignore him. He LOVES being ignored by the kids and my husband, puts him in his comfort zone. The key to most biting behavior instruction is to prevent the bite, rather than correct the behavior and growling which only reinforces the dogs negative attitude. If a dog growls or lunges and gets corrected for the growl or lunge, this is equivalent to turning off the ticker on a time bomb. It will still go off, it will just not warn you. Your dog is warning you he is upset. He is showing inhibition every time he strikes and misses. (he intends to miss) ... Ignore the warning signs and he will start to connect. Correct the warning and you get a dog that "bites without warning". You need to discover the reason the dog is telling you he is upset and work on changing his mind.

Hope that makes sense. will write more later.

 

[Reignmaker Miniatures]

I think shorthorsemom has covered it. IMO, at his age you may not be able to change him reliably but you can deal with how he acts by using a leash/kennel and giving him his own space when you know things will be stressful for him. Kenneling or perhaps kenneling him in a closed off room if he is unduly agitated, tho I hesitate to isolate an animal unless it makes it clear it is unable to tolerate even watching from its safe haven (the kennel), when you have company will guarantee safety for your guests and the dog who will certainly suffer the most if he bites someone. I do not think you are horrid, you are dealing with a difficult situation and must find a way to keep yourself and others safe, too many people try to pretend aggression isn't happening until someone gets badly hurt, particularly it seems with small dogs. Good for you for being proactive.

 

[Performancemini]

Shorthorsemom and reignmaker-thanks. I have had him to the vet for his innoculations this summer and approached the problem. There are no signs of physical problems (developing age cataracts though). The vet did mention the dementia issues; but didn't seem to think it sounded quite like he was at that point. I talked to our former obediance instructor (exellent place) and she did say to do what you did shorthorsemom (leash/kennel). He will kennel day and evening. A little whimpering, but seems resigned to it. The vet and the obd. instructor both said he is 'owning' me and is protecting me-his property/territory. I have the guily syndrome kenneling him when H. is home with me as the dog is cooped up in the kitchen all day on the days I work, or if I am out running errands and such. As I mentioned before, he was a rescue dog-supposed to have come from a family (adults and 2 teen boys) that lost their home do to job loss and could only find rental with no pets (maybe true, maybe not). He seemed housebroke, loved car rides, had no clue what Petsmart was (LOL), and was obviously allowed to sleep on the bed (bad move on my part now in looking back)-we had always let our other dogs sleep on the bed at the foot (probably never should have with any of them). Anyway-we can't kennel him or put him in another room at bedtime. He whimpers and whines on and on and on and on. We have tried the water pistol (he no longer cares). Being out in the country, as you might guess, we have no garage hooked to the house (old farm house) or I would put his kennel in the garage. But even my husband won't stoop to putting him kenneled way out in the barn or unattached garage at night. I am now afraid of 'what if he takes exception to my husband's (in particulair) movement at night and goes for him in bed. I keep thinking 'yeah, he's going at feet, calves and such now-but what if he connects with face or throat?". I think we are gone too much to have a dog anymore. I think he is too ??? on his own ??? unstimulated the right way??? His idea of playing with a toy is to grab it and run back and forth. He won't fetch, doesn't do tennis balls or sticks (don't think he can do depth perception well enough anymore either). I do do some play with him with the toys. He is smart and does tricks-loves that (high 5's, shakes, 'pays up', rolls over, sleeps, crawls and patty cakes).

How long is the leash/kennel thing-rest of his life I suppose. I am going to rearrange the livingroom today and put my son's (when he stops by) recliner where the sofa is so H. can read and watch tv in that (he'd probably rather have a recliner handy anyway.). And move the sofa to the side and I will just have to sit there. We don't cuddle (unfortunately) anymore anyway. But if it helps-then that's what it takes. I will wait for more from you-thank you so much.

 

[romewhip]

I would crate him in the bedroom, and cover his crate at night with a blankie or towel. The chance of an accidental bite is too risky. If he's whining in the crate at bedtime be clear about telling him to stop, and be prepared to have a couple of nights of broken sleep. When he is out with the family I wouldn't keep him crated, but I would keep a 6' leash and well-fitted flat collar on him. He does need social time out, but at the same time he needs to know that his behavior won't be tolerated. He snaps or makes a move toward biting and he gets a good correction with the leash. If everyone is on the couch and he seems possessive you correct him with the leash and tell him NO. He could also be losing a little hearing, which tends to make some dogs very insecure. The result of the insecurity is that they act out and become aggressive with resource/person guarding.

This is all assuming that he doesn't have any health issues or dementia. I had a deaf one who then went blind, and couldn't cope with it. He snapped and tried to bite anything he felt near him except me, and he was miserable. I've had show dogs since 1988 and been involved in rescue since 1995, as well as teaching obedience and behavior issues. There isn't a quick fix, but you may be able to do a little retraining to help make your guys resource guarding (you are the resource) and insecurity get better.

 

[Reignmaker Miniatures]

One thing I just thought of too (romewhip has a good point with the blanket/towel. I try to make my dogs kennel a den for them so they feel safer there) is do you do all the feeding? It might help if your husband gave the dog treats when he first comes home/into a room with him. It may also help if he has the leash and takes the dog out for short walks. He needs to re establish his dominant position in the dogs mind. That however will not help with those who don't live in the household so I would still choose kenneling there. The leash is to be held so the dog goes with you when you leave the room, and can't actually lunge at anyone since you can bring him up short if he does. For night time kenneling you might consider sleeping with earplugs for a few nights to muffle his cries. Even spraying him with water is giving him the attention he craves and he needs to learn to accept you will return in the morning. My advice is put the dog in his kennel in another room and then use some good earplugs so you can sleep thro his tantrums. If he accepts his kennel during the day he can learn to accept it at night as well. You may have to be a bit tougher on him so that you can find a way to live with his issues safely.

 

[Performancemini]

All great advice and I will have to do it. It is hard to sleep and especially knowing my husband is so tired anyway and really needs the rest-so then I get guilty on top of the other guilt! (can you tell I have a few problems myself LOL!). Ok-got the leash question answered-because I wondered how he would get the reassurance that he is still a part of the family is he was kenneled almost all the time. I know he is miserable when I leave. He literally usually sits by the wall and won't look at me! He doesn't do any damage and the neighbor (one's house is close) says she has never heard him barking or crying.

I will move the kennel to the livingroom area and blanket it for night. I will leave door open when he is loose (when I am the only one home). I have wondered if his hearing slipping slightly by some minor things. I know his cataracts have gotten a bit worse; but the vet says he can see. Just probably depth perception and maybe has kind of 'floaters' like sightwise. The little stinker likes to stick close to me like velcro when i am home and moving about. I have tripped over him when I step back often because he is standing so close or moving so close behind and around me. I am afraid I will break his little toes some day. He has yelped and snapped at my heels or ankles then; but then he acts kind of submissive afterward. (I wouldn't want to be stepped on either-he has to learn not to get that close-hard headed I guess). I do baby him too much I am sure. I baby talk him a lot. We have always had a dog. (and dogS). They are company when my husband works his second jobs evenings. Feels more secure when it gets dark. My husband says no more dogs when he is gone. I think it's because he and the Aussie went to badly. (the Aussie adopted me as his person when he was here too and got overprotective of me also-am I the problem? Or just the breeds or situations. They aussie was also a rescue dog 2-3 years old. and the rescue took him out of a shelter.).

 

[shorthorsemom]

Hi,

I am back... only have a few minutes.

Firstly all meals should be given in his crate. He eats in his crate, he gets nice bones in his crate filled with peanutbutter etc. The crate is going to be his greatest place on earth. give him cheese sticks to go in his crate, don't push him in. Teach him he gets a great food treat for going in. cover the crate. Make sure he has warm bedding.

Next..I hear you feeling guilty in your post. Dont be hard on your self or blame yourself. Also, don't label him with human emotions. That will hold you back with his training.

If he doesn't like strangers you can retrain his mind on that one. On leash at all times. When stranger enters room (staying back initially) and your dog is calm, then reward him with food. Chicken cheese, something he gets no other time.

Stranger or family member come in door, when dog is calm, he gets chicken,...then stranger leaves. You can use anybody in the family as the "stranger". Condition him that when the stranger comes into the house and he doesn't react, he gets a food treat. You want to start slow and don't move onto the next step until your dog starts to look at you whenever somebody enters the room. That is what you want, attention on you during times of stress.

For you, I want you to work with him in the house on leash, you can teach him not to crowd your feet using food rewards. He gets food when he stays a little off your feet. Use the food as bait to teach him a different position.

When my dog lost her eyesight she became very strange in behavior. With cataracts they see from the outside edges of their vision and people just suddenly jump into their side vision. This un nerves some dogs. People approaching from the side is better and nobody should be trying to pet the dog on the head if you are having issues with temperament. Think of her point of view... hey, I can smell the person, I can hear the person, whoops, hey they just touched my head and yikes that makes me uncomfortable. bite. I better stick close to mommys feet so she can protect me. your dog is afraid. Fear causes many bites.

Your leash in the house will give your dog confidence. it is like an umbilical cord. It makes the dog feel safe.

I had great luck with different calming aids for my very aged easily stressed dogs. My min pin lived til 18. I would have put her down at 11 had I not crated her more, used a leash and gave her medication to calm her brain waves. She was so much less stressed. Everybody was instructed not to touch her crate when they came to visit.

Hope some of this helps.

best wishes.

 

[Performancemini]

OK-will give it a good go!

 

[shorthorsemom]

On a blind dog... "looking at you" might just be an inclination of the head or sniffing in your direction. I don't make dogs look at my face for attention exercises... Just noticing that the dog focus is your direction and not toward what is scaring him.
I have one chinese crested male that does not like strangers and is very fearful. I was able to show him successfully by teaching him attention on me in time of stress using food. He would do his stand for exam for the judge and stare at me while the judge touched him. After the class he would roll and roll on my jacket to remove the scent of the stranger and he got "jack pots" yummy treats outside the ring. If that judge were to walk in my house without this dog on a leash he would have been toast. My boy doesn't like folks on his turf, he is crated and the crate is covered when somebody visits. He gained confidence because he TRUSTS me to find him a safe placce where he is comfortable to hide and I never allow anybody to greet him in his crate. He can lurk and peek and pretend he is invisible and that is his comfort zone. On lead I insist that he listen to me. I have taught him that I will protect him, but that he must trust me to keep him safe. For walks outside in public outside the obedience ring if somebody asks to pet him, I say "this dog is best ignored".

I used a different leash in the obedience ring to signal that this was a working exercise and it was treated differently.

We can actually train our dogs to be fearful. If a dog is scared.. and we pick them up and cuddle and coddle like a human it makes your dog more insecure because you are rewarding the frightened behavior. They say to themselves,... hmmmm scared is correct because I got rewarded. Hense the problem with associating human emotions to dogs. They just simply see things differently. I prefer to distract and reward the change of focus. So the dog gets chicken for not focusing on the fear and for focusing on you and breaking growling attention. Watch your timing on rewards so you don't give food for growling. dIstract and when he looks at you, then reward for the change of focus. You can do a "sneak away" using your lead and change direction and when he says "what the???" and looks at you, then you reward. Hope this makes sense.

I used to be able to make a min pin I had shiver on command. I said.. Are you scared? she would shiver and I gave a food reward... She would even chatter her teeth for effect and got rewarded. It was hilarious.

You can use food to train for anything if your dog is food motivated.

to prevent puppies from being afraid of thunderstorms we set up a food treat bowl and every time the lightning or thunder flashes and booms we throw treats. Dog starts looking forward to the next boom. If I were to coddle and hug the dog during a storm I would be teaching the dog that the fear is correct.

I was walking my collie down a street and a dog in a fenced in yard did one of those charges and barked the whole length of the fence. My collie looked at me and smiled because she KNEW I was holding treats that she would be getting for ignoring that dog. Distraction training is very valuable for fearful dogs. We would be in class and somebody would drop some tins and immediately everybody would break out the treats and give "lots of cookies". Then resume training and move on. dogs learned bad startling noises equal treats,... Wait til focus and don't always give food right away... sometimes we take a few focus strides before rewarding.

Hope this all helps,, rambling trying to help you see things from your dogs point of view, rather than from a human point of view... gotta go milk the cows.