The most important thing you learnt when you started out?

[paintponylvr]

I'm still considering myself a beginner driver and I'm finding that as I "evolve" or gain more experience - sometimes what I find really important changes a bit... BUT I do come back to one thing every time as a given - so I guess that's what I will say is the most important.

The ability of my horse (s) to understand and comply with the verbal command of "whoa, stand". Not only do i use it when out on the trails or will i use it in the futue in the showring, but I use it extensively when harnessing my ponies by myself. I don't always have the option of having a helper (most of the time), but I don't always have a way to have them tied while hitching them. I spend a lot of time not only on "Whoa, stand" but will work with them while hitching and if they get antsy I will undo what it done up at that point step away from the cart or wagon and work them - on circles, serpentines and changes of directions. If this occurs when unhitching, they are rehitched and worked with the vehilce attached... This has worked for me - by the time I'm ready to hitch them to something they are usually well versed in this procedure and it doesn't usually take long for them to realize that "Opps, I didn't do what I was supposed to...it might be easier to follow that next time"... zThey do get to the point where they realize that "whoa, stand" is when they get to relax and stand quietly...

*****

As to riding western with loose reins and english only on contact - both can be or are false statements for either style, LOL. I know that an english horse is not started only on contact and a well started dressage horse is taught as early as possible to "stretch down" and walk - long and low. This is done on a loose rein. A western horse is usually started w/ two hands on the reins and generally w/ pretty short or sometimes very light contact - even if when finished they will be ridden on a loose, drapey rein w/ one hand and neckreined. Arabs that are shown with that "long, drapey" romel rein - they are weighted! The tiniest movement of your fingers or shift of your hand is felt and recognized by the fully western trained horse - as are weight shifts thru the seat and legs. I've noticed in the last few years that the horses in the pleasure western rings are using heavier/thicker reins and have silver on them - which also adds weight just like the arabs use - and at home those horses are often still schooled in a snaffle and two hands w/ varying amounts of loose rein riding. I've never used the showring style of "throwing the reins away" - but have while riding using any kind of NH style. It took lots of practice to be able to pick up that loose rein quietly and effectively to work with my horse (s) but the results were pretty spectacular over time... It actually took longer for me to get my horses to stretch and walk nicely on a "loose" rein, tho.

*****

Arthritis in the hands... I'm fairly certain that I will be dealing with that as well in my future. If you aren't showing - can you train your horse (s) to use the right hand for driving and the whip (if used) in the left? If you are showing and need to show one handed but can't use the left, can you get "special discompensation" (not sure that's the right term?) for using the right due to medical reasons?

There are times, even with my unfinished driving ponies, that I used the lines in one hand. I do switch - as it often gives not only the hand/arm (s) a rest but also the shoulders... AND it's often fascinating to see if they will respond while driving one handed!

 

[susanne]

Very good points, Paula. As for right-handed driving, I've considered it if it should become necessary in the future, and wouldn't hesitate to do it. Most things left or right are done out of habit or tradition, not need. The fact that I'm left-handed and very right-brained makes this an additional challenge, but that's life!

 

[Aristocratic Minis]

As many others have noted, the hardest for me to learn was about the contact on the reins. I grew up showing QHs, way back when they first evolved from the dinosaurs, and we were taught to "treasure" a soft mouth and not to jerk or pull on a mouth. Neck reining was what we did - that and leg and seat pressure and other body cues. Posture, body language, shift of weight, squeezing of legs was what it was all about.

Without any leg pressure or other contact, correct contact on the reins was what I needed to learn. I just didn't understand that constant contact. One day I took a pair of reins to my trainer and asked to play a game. I held the reins as I pretended to be the horse as he showed me the tension on the reins to use. I was able to "feel" through my contact with the reins what it was like to turn left and right, to slow down, speed up, halt and even back up. It gave me a lot better idea of what kind of contact and movement the horse could feel through the reins. My trainer can give very subtle, yet important, commands through his hands without yanking or jerking. I learned a lot that day being the "horse." My trainer is great.

 

[MiLo Minis]

Knowing how to drive one handed certainly comes in handy in a reinsmanship class when they ask you to do so!

The Achenbach method is certainly a good one for singlehanded driving although I drive two handed with a direct rein for the most part because that is what is easiest for most horses to understand.

And a good solid whoa is certainly the most important skill for your horse to learn especially when driving.

But you asked what was the most important thing I learned when starting out.....

Probably the single most important thing I have learned when working with horses is that it is imperative that you always treat them fairly. When a horse is not doing what you want it to do you need to be able to realize that it is most likely you are not asking in a way it understands or that you are actually asking for the response it is giving or that it is physically painful for it to comply. Very rarely are horses mean, obstinate or just plain stupid - of course there are always exceptions to the rule.

For the most part if a horse respects you it will try very hard to do what you ask and it is up to you to ask in a way they can understand. Break it down into smaller steps if necessary. Be open to realizing the difference between disobedience and misunderstanding or a painful response. Horses are very stoic in my experience and will tolerate an awful lot in many circumstances giving us plenty of time to figure out what the real problem is. We need to be intelligent and fair enough to do that for them.

 

[hobbyhorse23]

What is done by most whips, including myself (using both hands, line coming up through bottom of hand and out over the index fingers), is totally wrong to a traditionalist using Achenbach style, with both lines in the left hand, using the right hand for the whip and to make adjustments.

It's not wrong, per say, even to the most traditional folks. It's just seen as being very low-brow or only appropriate for speed events where you don't have time to take a loop. Even Thomas admitted that two-handed driving was appropriate for that!

As to riding western with loose reins and english only on contact - both can be or are false statements for either style, LOL. I know that an english horse is not started only on contact and a well started dressage horse is taught as early as possible to "stretch down" and walk - long and low. This is done on a loose rein.

First of all- I agree completely with your subsequent points about contact while riding Western and how both styles will use various levels of contact as appropriate. That said...stretching long-and-low in dressage is done by teaching the horse to seek contact and stretch out to find it when you loosen the reins.

You don't just throw them away and let the horse slop along and call that correct- you release the reins, the horse lengthens frame, and they should engage the rear and actively stretch the topline until you collect them again. You can't get that maneuver without being on contact ALL THE TIME. The horse won't seek it if they haven't been taught to expect it!

As many others have noted, the hardest for me to learn was about the contact on the reins. I grew up showing QHs, way back when they first evolved from the dinosaurs, {

} and we were taught to "treasure" a soft mouth and not to jerk or pull on a mouth. Neck reining was what we did - that and leg and seat pressure and other body cues. Posture, body language, shift of weight, squeezing of legs was what it was all about.
Without any leg pressure or other contact, correct contact on the reins was what I needed to learn. I just didn't understand that constant contact. One day I took a pair of reins to my trainer and asked to play a game. I held the reins as I pretended to be the horse as he showed me the tension on the reins to use. I was able to "feel" through my contact with the reins what it was like to turn left and right, to slow down, speed up, halt and even back up. It gave me a lot better idea of what kind of contact and movement the horse could feel through the reins. My trainer can give very subtle, yet important, commands through his hands without yanking or jerking. I learned a lot that day being the "horse." My trainer is great.

That's great!

Playing "Virtual Horse" (especially with a blindfold) is a very good way to learn the feel of contact and why it's important. Hardy Zantke has said many times that holding contact with your horse's mouth should be like two people clasping hands. With a green horse it's like taking a child's hand as you go for a walk- the clasp is warm, friendly, and guiding without being commanding or intrusive unless the child is trying to do something dangerous. (I find a good dose of humor and "Hey, lighten up!" works well with both kids and green horses!

) Once your driving partner has "grown up" a bit, experience-wise, I would say it can become more like a long-time dance partner. That contact becomes electric, alternately seductive or commanding, giving and taking with precision as both partners find their rhythm together and make something beautiful. When the "music" is slower or the mood more relaxed, you become like an old married couple walking hand-in-hand.

What MiLo said reminded me of perhaps the single biggest lesson I've learned in horses overall, not just in driving. Never, ever, assume the horse is "just being stupid." You're either not asking right, or you are but the horse has reasons of their own for saying "no." Every single time I've gotten frustrated and lost my temper, I've found out later the horse had a very good reason for how they were acting and I was the one in the wrong. Don't ever give yourself cause to be ashamed of your behavior later- better to be too soft on the horse now than find out later you asked an animal in pain (emotional or physical) to do something they just couldn't.

Leia

 

[Marsha Cassada]

One of the most important things I learned from training is positive reinforcement. Verbally or physically. The smallest thing, done correctly when asked for, calls for clear positive response from the trainer.

 

[Littlegoesalongway]

Excellent question! Here's a few points that come to mind...

1. ALWAYS do your safety check (a complete walk-around to check harness, hitching & cart before you get in), ESPECIALLY if someone else is helping you to harness/hook-up. Make sure things are attached correctly and properly fitted and that all steps are placed in their keepers.

2. CONTACT is your best friend....it helps your horse feel safe, gives you clearer communication and can keep you safe in scary situations

3. Ground drive your horse anywhere and everywhere (even places you wouldn't take a cart)...it'll build your confidence as well as your horse's. If I'm short on time, I'll just ground drive around the yard. If I've changed anything that the horse can feel, then I ground drive before I hook up to make sure all systems are go.

4. BREATH....i mean breath consciously an deeply. I just got back from a "Centered Driving" clinic with Peggy Brown and man, was it eye opening to feel just how different you feel to the horse when you unconsciously hold your breath, as many people do. It'll help your horse relax, help you to relax, and your horse will become much softer & attentive. If you ever get an opportunity to drive with Peggy, jump on it! She's awesome!

5. Take a spares kit with you if you are driving outside of the arena, away from home...and make sure it has duck tape in it!

6. A wise old wheelwright once told me "Any horse CAN drive, but not every horse WILL drive"

I rescued my first mini with the notion that he looked like he'd make an awesome CDE prospect. Although I got him driving, he had a reputation for being "predictably unpredictable". Got to where I thought I finally had him over the hump of things and then....we had a spectacular wreck (that started from a standstill...to this day I don't know what set him off) which landed me in surgery with a broken hand. He was so right for driving in all aspects but one...his mind. Took me a year to finally admit that he wasn't going to be what I thought he could be. It was a hard but necessary lesson to learn.

 

[Molly's Run Minis]

i learned how important it is to CORRECTLY measure your horse for a harness. cant tell you how many harnesses and money i went through to finally get this one right