# Underweight mare



## NewToMini's (May 13, 2015)

I got 2 Miniature horses 2.5 weeks ago. A mare and her (now 9 month old) filly. The mare is a little underweight, though, and doesn't seem to be gaining weight anymore. She gained enough for her ribs to fill in, but then she stopped gaining and her spine is still sticking up.

I'm working them up to being out grazing either all day or all night (probably night since the mare is black), and today they will be out for 6 hours. They also get 2-3 flakes of hay per day (80% grass 20% alfalfa), and grain (14% protein, 8 cups per day for the mare, and 3 per day for the filly).


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## JMS Miniatures (May 13, 2015)

I would check the mare's teeth and make sure that's fine. Also a fecal wouldn't hurt.

Another thing I would do is give her a good quality senior feed, and the foal on a good junior feed and if they aren't already I would wean the foal.


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## NewToMini's (May 13, 2015)

She's only 8 years old and they're both on Purina brand Miniature Horse and Pony feed. The filly's weight is perfect.

And I was wondering if the mare's teeth were a problem, the previous owners kept record of everything (which they gave me with the horses), and they never had her teeth floated (they had her for a year and a half - I don't know if her teeth were done before they got her). And worms shouldn't be a problem, she was just dewormed by a vet last month.


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## wingnut (May 13, 2015)

If you think it's been more than a year since her teeth were done, I'd do that no matter what. Do you separate them when they are getting their grain so you know she's getting her 8 cups and the little one isn't sneaking some from her? If not, I would do that so that you know she's getting everything you give her. Are they sharing that 2-3 flakes per day or is that per horse? Again, for a time, I'd likely give her her own 2-3 flakes of hay per day. After these 2 things (floating and making sure she's getting her fair share of the grain/hay), you could try a high calorie supplement to add to her feed. Some go with straight oil, some use rice bran oil, some use a pelleted supplement.

Give it a little more time. She may be stressed about the move to a new location, even without any outward signs. By mid summer if she's not gaining any more weight or losing (and not other concerning symptoms emerge), a baseline test panel of blood work may be in order. I've been down the road with a hard-to-put-weight-on mare and in the end, all of the feeding things we tried were to no avail because it was a systemic problem in her digestive track, not a lack of calorie problem. My mare's condition is highly unusual though, so it's more likely you've just got to find the right balance for this one.

P.S. Post pics if you can. Sometimes what we see as too fat or too skinny may be a distortion that others can confirm to be otherwise.


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## Minimor (May 13, 2015)

I would look at something other than the mini and pony feed. I know a number of people whose horses have not done well on that feed.


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## Brody (May 13, 2015)

One additional thought since it is a mare and her nine-month old filly - is the filly completely weaned? Make sure momma's udder is all dried up, and if not separate them until it is. This past year my mare was starting to lose some weight with her then 5 month old filly. I was planning on weaning at 6 months, but started a bit sooner because of the weight loss (and following vet recommendation and the recommendation of most others on here). I also started giving her a daily serving of bran mash and that helped her get back to a good weight within about a month. If the filly is still sneaking a drink here and there that could be a big contributor to the mare's weight loss.


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## chandab (May 13, 2015)

A horse doesn't have to be a senior to eat senior feed. Senior feed is easy to digest so good for all ages, and also good for those that need to gain weight.


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## FurstPlaceMiniatures (May 13, 2015)

My hard keeper 12.3hh pony filly gets an extruded 'mare and foal' feed - it's made by blue seal. It's 16% protein, 8.5% fat, 10% fiber. I feed about 4lbs a day of it. She also gets some 'weight builder' (I think it's called 'cool calories' or something to that effect) which is straight powdered vegetable oil, a ration balancer, and some hoof and coat. I've never had a hard keeper in my life, and generally don't like supplements, but after just 2 weeks of this ration it's made huge improvements on her!


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## NewToMini's (May 13, 2015)

I can't separate the mare and foal, because there's only one stall in the barn right now. The filly isn't completely weaned, but the mare is weaning her. The mare eats all of her grain, and sometimes she gets some of the filly's, too (filly doesn't always eat her full portion, and always spills some on the ground), I stay with them while they eat. They share the hay, but if I give them more than the 2-3 flakes, then they waste half of it.


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## NewToMini's (May 13, 2015)

You can't really tell in these pictures (too much hair, lol), but here are some pictures of her. I'll maybe get some better pictures tomorrow. And it's just her spine that's thin now (maybe just needs muscle?), her belly almost makes her seem overweight now (ribs can be felt, but not easily). These pictures were taken a week ago.


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## NewToMini's (May 13, 2015)

Also, I do plan to get their teeth done, but it will have to be in 3 weeks (5 weeks if I get the filly done, too, but I don't know that she needs it). I need to get booster shots next week for the filly, and a pair of boots if I have any money left after the vet (my boots are litterally falling apart, the sole is halfway off of one of the boots, and the toe is coming off the other).


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## Jean_B (May 13, 2015)

This mare is grossly underweight.

1) Separate them NOW....put a divider in that stall if you have to.

2) Teeth on the mare...foal won't need it until 2 or 3 (when the caps come loose).

3) Worming regimen after doing a fecal, but it wouldn't hurt to give them some Ivermectin right away.

4) A good high energy (12 or 14 percent protein with a high fat level) grain

5) Lots of HIGH quality clean hay....free choice.

Scrap the boots...this mare needs help now.


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## chandab (May 13, 2015)

Looking at the mare, the filly is still nursing more than you think and pulling the mare down. Separate them, find a way. For ease of feeding, I think I'd get a good senior feed for her; my preference would be Triple Crown Senior (it costs a little more than some, but has everything she needs in one bag)


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## NewToMini's (May 13, 2015)

Separating them really isn't an option right now, I should be able to separate them after my sister sells her sheep, but I don't know how soon that will be.

And I'll try the senior feed, but for right now, would adding vegetable oil to her grain help? How much would I use?

And I decided to up the hay, I'll start giving them enough so that they have half a flake or more left in the stall when I turn them out to graze.


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## chandab (May 13, 2015)

Go with the senior feed, and if you can get triple crown senior, it has plenty of fat in it already, so need to add more (vegetable oil is mostly fat, so no need to add it to a higher fat feed; and really messy, so I don't use it).


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## REO (May 14, 2015)

Welcome here and welcome to minis









You've had good info posted to you here. I agree with them and I think your mare will greatly benefit from having the 9 month old "yearling" off of her. I hope you can get them separated soon. Let us know how they're doing.


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## LRMiniatureShetlands (May 14, 2015)

If she were my mare this is what I would do and please understand, this is just my opinion, others may disagree with me.

**Separate them, immediately!*

**Change her feed to a high fat / high protein feed* - I do not like the Purina Miniature Horse and Pony feed and no longer use it at all. Change her feed slowly.

*Safeguard (fenbendazole) Power Dose dewormer for 5 consecutive days.

*Free access hay (preferably a good alfalfa mix, at least 50/ 50) or grass.

*Then depending on how she looks in a few weeks, I might put her on a daily dewormer (pellets) for a while....just depends on how she does when no longer with the filly and on a better feed.

Good luck with your mare!


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## NewToMini's (May 14, 2015)

Here are pictures from today


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## NewToMini's (May 14, 2015)

Chandab, I don't think I can get Triple Crown, I was just looking at tractorsupply.com and didn't see it on the site. Here are the brands of senior feed on the site (May go to the store later today and see which ones my TSC carries): Blue Seal Sentinel, Nutrena Safe Choice, Purina (is it a bad brand, or is it just the mini feed that isn't good?), and Dumor.

What protein and fat % should I look for?


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## FurstPlaceMiniatures (May 14, 2015)

Sentinel makes a fabulous mare and foal feed. It's in a hot pink bag.

However until you get that filly off the mare, your efforts will probably be futile.


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## Magic Marker Minis (May 14, 2015)

We give Safe Choice and it works great. Dumor also is good. We have a mare that lost weight after foaling. Foal is too young to wean, so we are giving her Empoeer Boost. Has high fat percentage. May have to wean foal at three months.


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## chandab (May 14, 2015)

I can't get Blue Seal around here, but have heard good things about it. I just haven't had much luck with Purina or Nutrena, so don't use them much, others love them. If you have a horse that needs to gain weight, the Mini and Pony feed won't do it, it's a maintenance feed for "typical" minis that gain easily.


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## NewToMini's (May 14, 2015)

Ok, so I went to TSC and another feed store and it looks like I have 2 good options. Both are 14% protein and 8% fat. One is Nutrena Safe Choice Senior feed, and the other is Purina Senior Active.

The Nutrena says you can make a mash of it in 3 minutes by adding hot water, so it sounds like it would be easier to digest.

Any of you have experience with either of these feeds? Which do you like best?


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## chandab (May 14, 2015)

I think I'd pick the Purina Senior Active, it has a lower sugar and starch level than the Nutrena. It is designed for horses that can still eat hay, so is not a complete feed like typical seniors, but provides similar nutrients and easy digestibility.


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## NewToMini's (May 14, 2015)

Ok, I'll probably go with that one, thanks


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## Jean_B (May 14, 2015)

If I were you, and if you are unable to separate them at your place, please try to find a friend that can keep the filly until totally weaned (which can take up to 3 or 4 months......I have had a foal get back in with its mother after 4 months and the mare started producing milk again!!). And yes, the purina active senior is a good feed.


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## Miniv (May 14, 2015)

I ditto Chandab all the way with the senior feed....and even if you have to separate mom and "foal" using the stall for part of the day, I'd do it.

Expect a lot of complaining from both of them.....but it's for the best in the long run.


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## NewToMini's (May 14, 2015)

I was considering boarding them (or one) for a little while. I know someone who owns a boarding facility. I'm concerned about how much they'd freak out, though, if I boarded one (they freak out if the other is standing right outside the stall), and I don't think I can afford to board them both. If I do board one, how long do you think it would take for them to settle down?


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## wingnut (May 14, 2015)

They might freak out a bit, but it will be okay.

Good luck!!


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## NewToMini's (May 14, 2015)

Which one would I board? I read somewhere that you should board the mare so that the foal can stay in a familiar place, but the filly freaks out the most when they're separated, and the stalls are safer at the boarding facility, so there's less chance of her hurting herself there.


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## JMS Miniatures (May 14, 2015)

Considering this mare is a special needs mare, sorry but looking at the pics she is very much underweight I would board the foal. I would get this mare to see a vet ASAP.

Surely there are other feed stores around the area but one feed I HIGHLY recommend is SeniorGlo by ADM. It even promotes to feed this feed for starved, rescued horses. As others said no horse is too old to be on Senior feed. I have one that's 5 years old that's currently on it. I am one of those people that had such poor success with the mini feed I had to feed a whole bunch to my easy keeper gelding and at the end he just stopped eating it all together. I switched to ADM and haven't looked back since.


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## Jean_B (May 15, 2015)

From your posts and your responses, I am guessing that you are a youth - and highly recommend that you find a mentor on how to care for ANY horse. Not sure where to turn? Contact the local 4-H clubs and find out who the horse project leaders are. Go to the Lil Beginnings breeders listing and see if there is anyone who lives close by that you can go visit and learn from. Google miniature horse clubs in your state. You are floundering and you....as much as your mare....need help. Good luck to you!


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## paintponylvr (May 15, 2015)

One other thing to consider - just because you have "pretty" pasture, doesn't make it "good" pasture. I have had that issue in the past myself... You can have that looked at/tested as well. Some county ag departments will test for NO CHARGE. What works for sheep does not always work for horses/ponies.

Also, along with a different feed and doing her teeth, pulling the filly off of her - she may need a "tummy soother" as in ulcer care/prevention. There are many on the market and in a pinch, human ones such as Pepto Bismol (not really meant for ulcers but an instant tummy coat) and others can be used. I'm not "current" on all the Ulcer products - several others here on this forum are. A lot of mini horses seem to have issues with ulcers - and being underweight can be a start to them as can other stress's - such as having the foal, having the foal on her too long, being moved to new facilities (IE - your place), changes in pasture and changes in feed (not only in changing them now - but doing the original start of your feed program after you got her JUST 2.5 weeks ago).

Yes, a vet visit is probably in order to pin-point specific issues for your mare.

Please let us know what you try for your mare and how she does. If she's gained a significant amount of weight in just 2.5 weeks, she's made a huge adjustment. Also - for separating - simple cattle panels (about $20/ea at TSC) can do a pen and separate the two. Then they go out on your pasture separately. Spending the $$ on your on property rather than boarding. Check with your vet - he/she may be able to do payments for a bill (floating teeth/testing) or even work part of it off - each vet and case are different.

Yes, while you are using the feed you have (rather than throwing it out), you can add fat to it. Vegetable oil is the cheapest way but not the best and doesn't work for all horses either - just something to keep in mind.


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## NewToMini's (May 15, 2015)

I'm 20, so young adult. I just haven't had my own horse since I was 13, so don't remember everything, and my parents paid for his care. These are my first horses that I am completely responsible for, and honestly that scares me a bit (as does everything else I'm not used to, because I tend to be anxious). This filly is my first young horse, I wasn't expecting to get a mare and 'foal', and honestly, I wasn't prepared to get a horse when I got them (a friend called me and told me about them; they were free, and the owner wanted me to pick them up the next day). So yes, I am in way over my head. But I do tons of research whenever I get into something new (or even think about it), and learn everything I can (I'm looking at this as reasearch, too, and find this to be quite enlightening, as I've never thought to look into grain before, and have never felt it necessary to learn everything there is to know about raising foals, since it seemed so far into the future. ). Yes, I am asking a lot of questions, yes, I sound like I know nothing about horses (even though I've been volunteering at a stable in exchange for riding time for 6 years, and have been around horses for 10 years), but it's because I'm an anxious person who is afraid of doing something wrong and not being perfect at caring for my horses.


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## NewToMini's (May 15, 2015)

PaintPonyLvr, I never even thought about having the soil tested, thanks.

None of the vets in my area take payments . We called all of them after my mom picked up a stray cat off the road, that had it's skin hanging off it's jaw.

And I know an equine dentist that I'll use. He's not really expensive at all, I think only $75. The only reason I can't get her teeth done right away is because the filly is due for her boosters, and I'm not going to have many hours on my paycheck this week.

I should be able to get a fecal done on the mare, I'll just have to call the vet and ask about it.


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## sfmini (May 15, 2015)

You have gotten great advice here. Bottom line is, the mini food isn't very good. Other Purina products are great, the Omolene feeds are good are are the Junior and Senior feeds.

To divide your stall, not so hard. We use the short sheep panels and make a corner stall in a stall and can keep our weanling colt (late foal, October) with his older half sister and still keep an eye on who eats what and how much.

Can't get the panels? Sink some fence posts and put up some boards. Until you do, that filly is going to drag that mare down and the nutritional value of her milk is very poor anyway at this stage. Yep, they have temper tantrums, mare will get uncomfortable because her udder will get taut and hurt a bit but only for a short time. Creativity is the name of the game here in getting them apart. The money you would spend on board can go to buying those supplies.

A boarding barn is going to have to charge you full price because that is what that spot is worth to them. If they cut the rate to you, then they are losing the difference. Doesn't matter that the feed and labor is cheaper.

Good luck.

p.s., in my avatar pic, see the partition behind the mini? He is in a full sized stall we turned into a triple stall for minis.


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## paintponylvr (May 16, 2015)

I TOTALLY understand about paychecks and loved your explanation of your experience. As to not wanting to make mistakes - well - we all can/do make them and that IS part of the learning experience along with experimentation. Don't let anyone tell you that that is wrong as horsemen and women all thru the ages have learned that way! Very few of us get it right all the time or on the first try. KUDOs to you for researching and asking questions.

I am a "queen" at stretching things out to the max and getting the most for my money (IF I can. Good quality is more expensive but is also the best way to go at times, rather than re-spending again and again.). We've always worked on a "shoe string" budget. Some ways you can offset costs is to purchase your vaccinations and learn to give them yourself (saving both the f/c charge and the extra that a vet charges to offset their necessary costs). You can figure out with your vet the "core" vaccines that you should be giving to your horses and which ones they have to give (here - just Rabies). Find out if you aren't taking them anywhere if they absolutely need all of those "core" vaccines (they may not - you'd be surprised).

$75 for a float is awesome and and quite a bit less than what I pay per horse. Did that include drugs or is your vet working on the horse w/o? I've got vets that do both ways - but even w/o drugs charge a minimum of $100/each, then goes up based on drug usage. Our 2 big horses and 2 medium sized ponies usually cost about $225/float. I paid a separate $100 to have the wolf teeth ($50/tooth) pulled on a 2 yr old gelding last month. I'd NEVER had 1 wolf tooth erupt in one younger than 4 yrs - much less 2, so it was a BIG surprise to find.

Also, if you get on the email lists with Horse dot com and valley vet dot com and Dover Saddlery - they have specials on wormer throughout the year - meaning you will sometimes get wormers at much lower costs than you can purchase them at any store. Some other vet catalogs also have sales on vaccines but sometimes these products are short dated - you can ask when you order and make a decision as to how much to get that way (I have a LARGE # of ponies, so order a minimum of 12 wormers at a time and usually 2-3x that but you can order as few as 1 or 2 but then have some shipping fees, too). Dover regularly has sales on riding "stuff" for biggies and you could combine orders. I often get my paddock boots 1x yearly on sale when I get wormer from them. You could see if the barn you are working with can split/share an order with you (they might like the savings, too. OR they may not - depends on their mindset and clientele).

Becoming "crafty" and/or repurposing some items you/your friends/family use, also can offset costs - all of which help with the rest of their care. I have recently come across ways to do things that I simply never considered nor thought about - and will be trying some of them out. Love projects made with haystring that I save. Now have some patterns/ideas for things w/ the jute string too (I don't like it and usually use it as a fire starter for either our bonfires or burn piles, LOL).

Utilizing temporary hot fencing or panels, your pair can be moved around singly - becoming "lawn mowers" in the yard as well.

By the way- WELCOME - to the world of MINIATURE HORSES and PONIES. You are in for a WONDERFUL "ride"!!


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## HGFarm (May 16, 2015)

I would have her teeth checked first of all. I have mine checked every year by an equine dentist starting at one year. If they don't need anything, he doesn't charge to check them. I would up the mare's alfalfa. I have not known many that cared for the Mini/Pony feed and some whose horses did terrible on it.


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## NewToMini's (May 16, 2015)

Thank you for all of the money saving tips, PaintPonyLvr





I was wondering If I would be able to buy the vaccines and give them myself to save money (I've given shots to another horse, some sheep, cats, and even chickens, so as long as the shots are intramuscular, I know how). I'll have to ask to vet about that.

And the equine dentist doesn't use drugs, so that's probably part of the reason he's so cheap.

And I didn't know about the email lists, thanks


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## sfmini (May 16, 2015)

You can for sure give your own shots, 1cc (ML) IM, same dose for minis as for biggies.

We mail order ours and do them ourselves. Only way we could ever afford to vaccinate our horses as we have 20 to dose.


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## NewToMini's (May 17, 2015)

Do you get them from the vet, or someplace else?


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## Jean_B (May 17, 2015)

You can get the vaccines from Tractor Supply, or some local feed store. They do require refrigeration, so make sure they have them adequately stored in their store. Or you can get them online from a number of places that will ship them with an ice-pack. Just 'google' Jeffers equine, United vet equine, etc.


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## NewToMini's (May 17, 2015)

Thanks


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## NewToMini's (May 20, 2015)

I got some senior feed for her yesterday. Right now, about 1/8th of each meal is the senior feed. How much of the mini feed should I replace with it?

I was thinking giving her 1/2 And 1/2 would be good, so she's getting the easily digestible senior feed for weight, but still getting the high amount of nutrients from the mini feed ... but I'm not sure if my logic is correct.

Does the senior feed have enough nutrients in it for a mini, even though she will be eating much less of it than a full sized horse? Or is my plan of giving her 1/2 good, or should I take her off the mini feed entirely and add a ration balancer or supplements (ration balancer are supplements, aren't they?). She's really shiny right now (even when she's dirty), and I don't want her shine to go away (why I think I either want to start her on a ration balancer/supplements, or keep her 1/2 and 1/2 on the mini and senior feeds)

Also, I probably will change the filly's feed, too, she doesn't seem to like the mini feed. Does she need a junior feed, or is one that says that it's for all life stages good for her?


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## chandab (May 20, 2015)

Move them both completely over to the senior, it'll be good for the youngster, too. Then once the mare has regained her weight reevaluate and see what adjustments need to be made. Since I can't readily get growth formula, I spoke with a nutritionist, and she told me the senior would be just fine for babies.


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## FurstPlaceMiniatures (May 20, 2015)

If what is working for the baby is working - keep her on it. Remember she may drop just a touch of weight with weaning - so she might need to be bumped up.

I would go 100% onto the senior feed for the mare - read the back of the bag and actually measure how much is supposed to be given, dont just guess. Remember thats usually expressed in lbs fed per day per 100 (my dyslexic butt had issues with that lol!). For example my filly's feed says to feed .7lbs per day per 100 for a horse in 'hard work,' she weighs 450 lbs, so she needs about 3.5 lbs per day of feed - thats about a full bag in a week and a half! For a 12.2hh pony! Would have never guessed that, however she is looking phenomenal on it.


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## FurstPlaceMiniatures (May 20, 2015)

Im also going to go a bit against the grain here and reccomend waiting just a little bit until she is a more acceptable weight to do any vaccines. If she were to have a reaction to it, on her already very stressed body, it could be horrible. It doesn't sound like you have horses coming in and out frequently, and she should not be traveling in her condition anyway, so a couple of weeks to gain condition and settle in probably would be a big help before vaccination.

You've mentioned money is tight, which i completely get. I think a wiser investment at this stage would be some kind of way to keep them seperate, maybe some wormer, and more feed! You'll be surprised just how much these little munchkins can consume! Vaccines for horses can be obscenely overpriced and there arent many options (as opposed to cattle vaccines which i am more used too).

I think the 'cool calories' weight builder Ive got from tractor supply has been the biggest help to my hard keeper - its $22 a bag, which is lasting her quite awhile. It smells really good and I havent had an issue with her turning it away. Its pretty much just powdered vegetable oil. I've also added a Dumor vitamin supplement too - just in case.


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## Jean_B (May 20, 2015)

The senior feed is meant to be used as a COMPLETE feed. Any hay fed or pasture would be in addition to. If this were me, I would give her free-choice hay, and at least a couple pounds of the senior feed both morning and night and make sure you feed the yearling separate. Tie them up if necessary while eating their grain. Remember....it has roughage in it, so in fact you should be feeding MORE of it in order to get the nutrients and fat into her. Read the label. I'm guestimating your mare at optimal weight would be around 350 to 400 pounds. So give her as much as the label calls for if feeding nothing else but the senior feed plus as much good clean hay or pasture as she wants. So.....for instance and I don't have any label information in front of me....if the label says to feed 6 pounds each feeding for a 1200 pound horse if feeding as a complete feed, give her at least 2 pounds each feeding. Adjust according to the label.


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## NewToMini's (May 25, 2015)

I don't know if she's gained weight or if her neck has just straightened after getting her mane cut off. Her spine is still up above her back.

Also, what color is she? Her papers say she's black, but she's shedding out to look a bit lighter. I'm thinking brown, or bay?


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## NewToMini's (May 25, 2015)

Today on top, May 7th on bottom.


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## JMS Miniatures (May 25, 2015)

I think she has improved greatly in a short amount of time. What have you done with her since then?

As far as color goes she could still be black but not a true non-fading black, whereas the other blacks get sun bleached and turn a brown color. Her color may come back in better too now that she is getting better nutrition.


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## NewToMini's (May 25, 2015)

I've just been leaving her out to graze all day and bringing her in at night with 2 flakes of hay (I still haven't separated her and her filly, so they share the hay and usually still have some hay left in the morning), she gets grain twice a day 4 cups each feeding, started switching her over to senior feed last week (she eats some of the filly's grain, too, because the filly won't finish hers), and I take her for walks/jogs 2-3 times per week (with some jumping over logs and across the ditch).

The grain her previous owners had her on before switching her over to the mini feed (which was right before I got her) didn't have any copper in it, so that could be why she's got light areas.. Will I have to wait until next spring to know if she's really black, or will the increased nutrition show in her color before then?


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## NewToMini's (Jun 6, 2015)

Update



New pictures on top, old on bottom (in the collages. All single pictures were taken today). Also, is she still a bit underweight, or does she just need to build muscles over her back?

And she has so much more energy now, she trots and canters around the field to get to her favorite grazing spots


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## chandab (Jun 6, 2015)

looking good, still a tiny way to go, but looking good. Yes, exercise will help her topline, a little bit of stepping over low poles to start would help, just at a walk for now, perhaps eventually a little trotting over poles. A little more time on her new diet will also help fill in her topline more.


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## NewToMini's (Jun 8, 2015)

The dentist came and floated her teeth today (she didn't enjoy it too much, she started rearing... any tips to help her do better next year?)

He said she had some sharp points on her teeth before he got her floated, so I'm hoping it won't take long for her to gain that last bit of weight, and then I can reduce her grain (I feel bad giving her 8 cups per day, it feels like way too much for a 31" mini)


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## chandab (Jun 8, 2015)

Perhaps a little sedation for next year. Manual or electric floats? My equine dentist will only use manual, most of mine are fine without sedation.


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## NewToMini's (Jun 9, 2015)

Manual. I might try sedation next year; could I just buy calming supplements from TSC (I don't think the dentist has any sedatives)?


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## chandab (Jun 9, 2015)

My equine dentist works with a vet when sedation is needed. You might have to see if your vet would be on board for helping with sedation next time, some don't like dentists and won't work with them and bringing in both does increase the bill.


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## NewToMini's (Jun 10, 2015)

Thanks


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