# Attaching Driving Reins



## Krazee bout Kasspur (Nov 8, 2009)

I always have my driving horses haltered and tied during hitching. Since I am a "one woman operation" with no header available, this has proven to be the safest option for me. I'd like to know your methods for attaching the driving reins. I know some folks like to bridle first and hold the reins while completing the rest of the harnessing. I've found this to be awkward. Also, what do you have on the ends of your reins? I do not like clips as I had one break during just a mild blowup...(don't have THAT pony anymore and the clips were the suggestion of a trainer)...but managed a whoa with one rein. Neither of my carts has a dash or a rein holding device. I think my reins might really be too long anyway and need to modify or purchase another set. Any suggestions/advice?

Thanks!

Lori


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## dreaminmini (Nov 8, 2009)

Well, I was taught to put on harness with breeching, then breast collar, then have the reins through the terrets and the rest of the reins safely sitting on the horses back with a safety loop around the crupper strap. We then put the bridle on, fasten it securely and the attach the reins. Our are buckle ones.  While we are attaching the bridle we usually slide the halter back so it is attached around the neck like a collar and then when ready you can just undo the buckle and be on our way. I am lucky though because my guy has been trained so wonderfully that once his bridle is on he doesn't move a muscle, he knows his "WHOA". Once bridle and reins are on then we attach the cart and finish attaching the rest.

Also I mentioned the reins that are loope around the crupper strap, they are done in a safety loop like that so should the horse decide to try and leave we can just grab the reins and prevent a runaway situation.

Not sure if this helps and I am sure someone more knowledgeable may step in but I am just sharing what I was taught by my very wise trainer




Hopefully, Lori (Milo Minis) will maybe explain a bit better? I'm not always the best a decsribing things.


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## MiLo Minis (Nov 8, 2009)

You just gotta LOVE a student that actually listens and remembers!!!



I couldn't have said it any better myself Kim - you did good!

The way most drivers do it is just as Kim said, you fold the reins in half and put the folded end under the backstrap bring it over, reach through the loop and pick up the reins and pull them through in a very loose knot, leave the buckle end of your reins hanging out where you can easily grab it if your horse was to be startled and bolt forward, the knot will slide out and you will have the reins.

Always be sure to have your bridle on and the reins attached before you put your cart on and remove your cart before removing the bridle.


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## dreaminmini (Nov 8, 2009)

I knew I was forgetting to add something



But I do usually get it right in practise. See you soon with the whole family in tow. No computer for someone for a week.


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## Krazee bout Kasspur (Nov 9, 2009)

Thanks for that description Dreaminmini. I'd seen a slideshow of that procedure with the reins. I'll need to practice it.

I always leave the halter on under the bridle with a dog leash that I secure around the turrets up and out of the way of the reins. This comes from my wagon train background since we were not judged on appearance, most wagonmasters left halters and lead ropes with the harness on their large draft horses and mammoth mules. Travelling a lonnnnng way from camp meant being prepared for any kind breakdown, be it horse or wagon. Sometimes an equine would go lame or something mechanical would occur with a wagon. Unhitching a team and either ponied or tied to another wagon would allow the procession to carry on down the trail.

Milo Minis...any training tips for obtaining that WHOA while I'm entering the cart? My two seem to have a "let's get this show on the road" eagerness unless it's just a really hot day



. Again, no header available, so I have to manage on my own.

Thank you both!


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## Marsha Cassada (Nov 9, 2009)

[SIZE=8pt]What is the reason for the reins attached later? Whyi would they be detached from the bridle? [/SIZE]


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## REO (Nov 9, 2009)

I was wondering the same thing Marsha


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## targetsmom (Nov 9, 2009)

I guess I use the "wagon train" method at home and never realized it.

I have buckles on the ends of my reins and was told or read somewhere to put a SECOND hole in the end of the reins use that one. So if the rein breaks, you have a "spare" hole to use. Has anyone heard of this? Does it make sense??

My reins are buckled together at the other end so I must atttach them to the bridle each time I harness (unless I want to unbuckle and separate them). That is also the way I have always seen it done - threading the reins through the turret from back to front.


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## MiLo Minis (Nov 9, 2009)

What is the reason for the reins attached later? Whyi would they be detached from the bridle?



REO said:


> I was wondering the same thing Marsha


With driving bridles unlike riding bridles you usually detach the reins when unharnessing because they are so long it is easier to thread them through the terrets on the saddle and possibly on the breast collar hanger strap as well and then attach them to the bit if they are on their own. If you leave them attached to the bridle you have to drag the entire length of them through the terrets to remove them and undo the buckle at the other end. Meanwhile your horse is standing there basically loose because he doesn't have his halter on yet although a driving cavesson used to come equipped with tie rings to act as a halter at this point most don't anymore and are basically cosmetic unless run through the cheekpieces to keep the blinders against the face.

Krazeeboutkasspur: My main boy Willie is the worst example of not whoa-ing really well when mounting BUT that is my fault as I have never seriously MADE him whoa. I am the only one who drives him unless I am holding the bridle as someone mounts. The way I get horses to stand still for mounting is to constantly reinforce the whoa they have been taught inhand and then free in the round pen. If I get a horse that is just far too overeager to go and won't whoa at that all time important point what I do is give him a sharp tug on the lines and say firmly WHOA. Count slowly to 10 and if he moves a muscle I give him another sharp tug and another firm WHOA. Repeat as many times as necessary till you get that whoa. If you never get it unhitch him and start again tomorrow. They are eager to go so their punishment is they DON'T GET TO GO. The way I teach them to stand once I have started driving them is to go out and work them till they are tired. Ask for a whoa and count slowly to 10. If they move a muscle before they can actually take a step I send them off and work them till they want to stop and then do a bit more. Ask again for whoa and repeat as many times as necessary. Once you get that SOLID 10 second WHOA immediately dismount and unharness - the big reward is they get to quit working. I have sometimes spent several hours at this task but all my horses stand like rocks (except of course Willie who is special



)


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## Margo_C-T (Nov 9, 2009)

It is SOP in the 'wider' world of driving to detach the reins from the bridle before removing the bridle from the horse, and to reattach once the bridle(headstall) and harness is one the horse. Reasons: the reins will have to be run through the terrets on the saddle(and sometimes there are also neck terrets on the hames of a neck collar, or on the neck strap of a breastcollar; you usually don't see this on 'fine' or 'breed ring' harness, but it is more common on other harness--my Smuckers Pleasure harness has it, for instance, as standard equipment). Since proper reins are buckled together at the 'driver' end, it is actually simpler to remove the entire reins from the bridle end once the vehicle is removed from the horse, then reattach them as you are hooking up. As was I think mentioned in another post, the bridle AND reins should be 'ON' the horse before the vehicle is brought up and attached, and neither should be removed until after the vehicle is removed from the horse at the end of a drive.

Also, it is really 'unhandy' to have those LONG reins attached to the bridle, invariably trailing as you carry the bridle, bridle up, etc. They will often end up underfoot, trailing on the floor/ground --it is not good for the equipment, nor entirely safe for the person hitching up, as they can easily trip you! It takes only moments to buckle/unbuckle each rein when hitching/unhitching, and actually makes it easier on both driver and equipment.

Margo


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## RhineStone (Nov 9, 2009)

What does SOP mean?

We are some of the few carriage drivers who actually leave the reins attached to the bits. We find it easier, especially with the Liverpool bits where the slots are as thick as the reins, and I don't want to pull on my horse's mouth when attaching them. Yes, we have to run them through both the neck and the saddle terrets and buckle them at the end. Generally, I throw the reins over my shoulder or over the stall door (we have 4' tall mini doors, the horses are tied in front of them to harness) while I am bridling and getting the other rein threaded. I know that there are other drivers who always detach them. This works for us, and we have not had anyone (including Int'l level drivers) who have said that it is downright wrong.

As far as not moving while mounting the carriage, that really has to be taught before you ever get as far as getting in the cart. I use Morgan/driving trainer Jeff Morse's technique/philosophy that horses are poor managers and they don't get to make decisions. Jeff and I talked about my gelding this spring, and he suggested that I make sure that he doesn't move during brushing, harnessing, putting to, or entering the cart. To do that, you not only need to stop the movement, but put the horse back where you put him in the first place. He doesn't get to make the decision about where to go, you do, and you put him where you did, so that is where he needs to be. If you are consistent and calm about that, he will eventually figure out that it is easier to stay put, than to be put back into place. Also, take your time brushing, harnessing, and putting to, so that YOU are not in a big rush. The horses pick up on this. And then once you are in the cart, take your time before asking them to move off. Take a big breath. Enjoy the fresh air. Make it a "matter of fact" event. My gelding is a different horse after just being consistent about standing during harnessing! He stands great, he doesn't argue with me about other things ("I don't want to go by that!", etc.), he stops when asked, he knows that Mom makes the decisions, and it wasn't even a battle to train!!!


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## Marsha Cassada (Nov 9, 2009)

[SIZE=8pt]Thanks for the clarification on the rein attachment. I can see with some harnsses that would be the best way. [/SIZE]

I don't use the buckles on the ends of my reins and I am not sure I've ever seen anyone else, in person, using them either. I've never even noticed drivers at AMHA shows having the reins buckled. I need to pay more attention from now on. Are they buckled in case the driver drops one rein? No one has ever really explained the reason for the buckles. This will be the perfect forum to learn all those fine points!


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## RhineStone (Nov 9, 2009)

Yes, they are buckled in case you drop one. Been there!!! Used that!!!


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## targetsmom (Nov 9, 2009)

RhineStone said:


> What does SOP mean?


Where I come from (or in my generation) SOP means standard operating procedure.

I am another Jeff Morse admirer. I was just mentioning his philosophy to someone today!!


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## susanne (Nov 9, 2009)

Whether or not to buckle the ends of the reins is a subject of endless debate: the risk of being caught in the reins in the event of a runaway or accident vs. the risk of dropping a rein.

I forget who suggested this, but I put the reins through the buckle without putting the tongue through the hole. This keeps the reins together, but they would pull apart in an emergency. Works for me.

When harnessing and hitching (especially when working alone, I like using a harness halter (with buckle nose and snap throat latch) or at least a buckle nose halter.

Another option is to add a gullet strap to your bridle so that your horse cannot rub or shake off the bridle.

Both of these items are priceless for trail driving.

Here's an idea I read (I think) on one of the driving lists (I have NOT tried this yet):

Tie your horse to fence post with a long, lightweight line attached to the halter in a quick release knot. Keep the release end of the line in your hand while you get in the cart, pull to release the knot and toss the line well away from cart and horse. You're now free to move about the driving arena. (I'm going to try this first from the ground and be sure the knot releases easily.)


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## Margo_C-T (Nov 9, 2009)

Yes, SOP means 'standard operating procedure"- and I don't think it's tied to 'our' generation, or where we are from...

Margo


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## MiLo Minis (Nov 9, 2009)

Marsha Cassada said:


> [SIZE=8pt]Thanks for the clarification on the rein attachment. I can see with some harnsses that would be the best way. [/SIZE]
> I don't use the buckles on the ends of my reins and I am not sure I've ever seen anyone else, in person, using them either. I've never even noticed drivers at AMHA shows having the reins buckled. I need to pay more attention from now on. Are they buckled in case the driver drops one rein? No one has ever really explained the reason for the buckles. This will be the perfect forum to learn all those fine points!


When the reins are loose at the ends they could easily get wrapped around a wheel if they are dragging which could be disastrous. Take the buckle end and tie a short piece of leather string or shoelace into a loop and carry the bight (extra reins past your hands) by the loop over your baby finger. This keeps them up out of the way, you or your passengers won't trip on them and they can't get wrapped around a wheel. A lot of show ring drivers have very short reins or hand hold reins such as roadster/race drivers use, both of which work fine in a show ring, but are very incorrect for carriage driving.


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## Krazee bout Kasspur (Nov 9, 2009)

I've noticed I don't have as strong a grip with my hands as I used to. Would hand hold reins be safe with say an attachment between the two holds to prevent dropping? I was looking at those on one of the harness websites



.


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## RhineStone (Nov 9, 2009)

susanne said:


> Whether or not to buckle the ends of the reins is a subject of endless debate: the risk of being caught in the reins in the event of a runaway or accident vs. the risk of dropping a rein.
> I forget who suggested this, but I put the reins through the buckle without putting the tongue through the hole. This keeps the reins together, but they would pull apart in an emergency. Works for me.



Agree. I have also heard of people putting the rein through the leather "keeper" only instead of buckling them. My reins come with a "finger loop", so I use that to carry the bight of the reins. I have my students sit on the bight so that it is safely away from the wheels.

I will also add that those of us who drive a tandem don't buckle the leader's reins, so that if the leader ever became detached from the wheeler (heaven forbid), the reins would (hopefully) slip through the rings on the wheeler and not jerk the wheeler around and cause a bigger wreck.


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## Iowa Valley (Nov 14, 2009)

Another thing to consider to make harnessing easier when working alone is to use a nose buckle halter. The nose buckle allows for taking the halter off AFTER the bridle is put on.

Sandee McKee

Iowa Valley Carriage


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## susanne (Nov 14, 2009)

Sandee, Good to see you here!

As I mentioned earlier, I LOVE the buckle nose/harness halters -- especially those with both buckle nose and throatlatch snap. These are also wonderful for grooming and clipping.

Those that lie very flat allow the halter to go on first, underneath the bridle, and can remain on until after the horse is completely unharnessed. These simplify unhitching and allowing your horse to graze on trail drive breaks.

Don't forget to keep the bridle (and reins) on as long as your horse is hitched to the vehicle -- this constitutes an instant disqualification at most shows (all ADS).


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## MiLo Minis (Nov 14, 2009)

susanne said:


> Don't forget to keep the bridle (and reins) on as long as your horse is hitched to the vehicle -- this constitutes an instant disqualification at most shows (all ADS).


They have actually made a new rule for ADS that not only do you have to have a bridle and reins if your horse is hitched to a vehicle there must also be a driver in the seat unless you are in the act of hitching or unhitching. You can no longer have your groom hold the horse at his head OR sit in the carriage as a driver unless they actually are drivers.


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## susanne (Nov 14, 2009)

How do they define "actual drivers?" Does it have to be another registered participant?

In the past at Happs, numerous people have allowed others to try out their carts...is this now forbidden other than with your own horse?

What about last minute potty breaks? (Non-negotiable for me...) Will that require completely unhitching?

At the one schooling CDE we've entered, I let Keith (who drives Mingus almost as much as I do) drive him at a slow, relaxed walk to cool him out after marathon (while I, uhh, went to the restroom)...I guess this would now be out?

I guess I see the reasons...just want to be clear on any rule changes (I must have missed that discussion on those lists and forums that we are not allowed to mention).


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## RhineStone (Nov 15, 2009)

[SIZE=14pt][/SIZE]

[SIZE=10pt]Actually, its not a rule, but a strong suggestion. There was quite a bit of discussion of the concerns of enforcement, which is why it didn't make it all the way to "rule" status.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10pt]From the ADS rulebook:[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10pt]Article 5:7 [/SIZE][SIZE=10pt]"The ADS strongly recommends that no turnout should rely solely on a groom or [/SIZE][SIZE=10pt]other attendant standing on the ground to control the horse or horses, with the [/SIZE][SIZE=10pt]exception of hitching and/or unhitching. If a driver dismounts for any reason other [/SIZE][SIZE=10pt]than to make minor adjustments to harness, carriage, or to unhitch, the reins [/SIZE][SIZE=10pt]should be given to a driver seated on the vehicle."[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10pt]Anybody that is handling the reins/horse needs to have signed the ADS disclaimer, so other drivers test driving your cart are not an issue. What they mean by "driver" is that you shouldn't hand the reins off to your grandma that has just come to watch the show and has no driving experience, just because you need a warm body in the vehicle. It needs to be someone who has a clue about driving a horse. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=10pt]I was at an ADS show this summer where the novice gentleman driver got out of his draft horse cart, and his adult daughter headed his Percheron. There was no accident, but had the horse decided to react to something, there is no way that woman was going to be able to keep horse and cart under control from the ground. I mentioned the strong suggestion, and she entered the cart with reins in hand. They just didn't know. [/SIZE]


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## susanne (Nov 15, 2009)

That makes sense...actually, I think all spectators at a CDE should sign a release. I thought of this as I was making my way out to a hazard to watch at Happs -- thinking, watch the woman with no peripheral vision get run over by a 4-in-hand...

Another thing that makes me cringe is when people for whatever reason stand in front of a shaft, so they would get skewered if the horse took off.

It looks like there would be no problem with Keith tending Mingus...but he should be in the cart instead of heading him, even with a VSE.


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