# Miniature Horse Keeping Questions



## Tess (Mar 2, 2015)

Hi,

I was wondering if I can use 4ft high cattle fence that have 2" by 4" rectangles and not electrify it? Do I need to put electric tape on the top and bottom of the fence? I have wood posts about 8' apart.

Also, What is a nice food and water container for a miniature horse? I am planing to keep the miniatures in a paddock. I have a shed that I am using as a shelter in bad weather or for shade in the summer. There is no door so it is basically three sided.

What are some good toys to keep one busy? How much excersise does a mini need? I plan to walk it everyday or so. This will be my first horse. I am going to get two minis at the same time from the same breeder.

What is a nice shampoo for a mini? I do not plan on showing or jumping my minis. Should I insure a non-showing, non-jumping mini? Also, I read that horses like apple bobbing, do minis? What are some nice treats for minis?

Thanks,

Tess


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## Rocklone Miniature Horses (Mar 2, 2015)

Welcome tess. Know now that you have gave your soul to the devil 

the fence will be ok, just watch for hooves going through it. I don't think you will need to electrify it. An automatic water feeder which is lower to the ground i best, maybe 10" high. If that isn't possible a 10gl bucket filled each day will be ok. They are hardy, a 3sided shelter is fine for all weather. A lot will play for a bit but the best thing to keep them occupied is grazing and moving. They need a lot of exercise, more than a dog. I personally drive mine, or run them in a corral for 30mins. a mild shampoo is ok. insurance is up to you. a mini suffering colic will cost the same as a horse. minis like all treats. apples, carrots, mints etc


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## Ryan Johnson (Mar 2, 2015)

Hi Tess,

Welcome to the forum





I originally didn't have electric fences when I set up the paddocks for the minis at home but after seeing them laying, rubbing, stretching the fences I soon realised I did. I only have one strand of electric tape that runs around the boundaries of the mini paddocks & has done the trick in stopping them from destroying the fences any further.

Regarding your other questions , there is a search engine at the top of the page that holds the answers to a lot of your questions.

Regarding treats , carrots, apples, pumpkin pieces are some my horses love.

As im on the other side of the world I cant help with shampoos ect not sure what would be available where you are ??

Hope this helps & a big welcome once again





Ryan


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## AngC (Mar 2, 2015)

For food/water dishes, unless you're doing an automatic watering arrangement (a bit more pricey) I like the black rubber dishes/buckets. They're easy to clean by pressure-washing (after a soak in a light bleach solution.)

I've used Mane 'n Tail shampoo for washing. At one point, I was researching, and if I remember correctly, it has similar ingredients to TreSemme shampoo. I quit using any crème rinse--too hard to rinse out.

About the one piece of advice I can think of... Set some funds aside for emergencies. Don't go into hock to buy the horse and then not have enough to pay for vets when things go wrong. I recollect being hugely surprised at how expensive problems can be.


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## Marsha Cassada (Mar 3, 2015)

Welcome to the miniature horse world! If you are getting two, are they mare and stallion? If so, that is a whole different world than having pets.

I think the cattle panels should be fine. It's possible a horse could get a foot caught; anything is possible with animals. But I've been using them for 13 years without a problem.

I mostly use the black rubber tubs for water and feed. They are sturdy.

I am a big fan of equine dentists. Miniature horses have the same teeth that large horses have, so they can frequently have dental issues, which in turn cause health issues. Most vets do not have the proper equipment to float them.

Going for brisk walks is a great way to teach ground manners. If you have access to a trainer near you, I strongly suggest a couple of lessons. Just because they are little, they are still total horse.

Looking forward to hearing more about your miniature horse adventures!


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## paintponylvr (Mar 3, 2015)

Hi Tess - WELCOME to the world of Mini Horses!! And to the Forum.

I agree with Ryan - mini horses and shetland ponies are the most destructive equine around. I've found that non-electrified wire (woven, welded, small sq meant for equine, small square meant for sheep/goats, larger square for livestock, even the heavier gauge livestock panels that are 16' long and range from 33" to 52" in height) will be destroyed in a hurry once spring arrives OR with the temps doing what they are doing here this winter. Ours are typically "hairy horses" - and when the weather goes from 13*f to 70*f in 2 days - they sweat. When they sweat - they ITCH. When they itch, they SCRATCH. Whatever they put those "hairy bums" on - MOVES, BENDS, BREAKS or FOLDS OVER (including wooden or tin structures and trees). Come spring - longer days even if not really warmer - they shed. When they shed - they ITCH, then they SCRATCH. You get the idea. With two it might not be so noticeable, with my herd - even when I did only have two in a "group" - it was! Personally, to save both heart ache and your fencing $$ investment, I'd plan on at least one strand of hot wire & depending on what's on the other side of your fencing - you may need/want more.

Horses are horses. Regardless of size. I've seen injuries from legs put thru fencing - all types. Some of the worst injuries I've seen were actually from fencing made and "touted for" horses! If the horse is bored or hungry or driven by hormones (mares & stallions) - he will dig or paw at any fence line. If a good rolling spot is inches away from the fence line, he may look fine when he folds down to roll, but then go over completely and put a different hoof/leg thru each square of fencing. That can be "dicey" OR it can have no consequence whatsoever as he quietly removes his legs from their "traps" and then either rolls the other way or gets up from there.

Your fencing supplies should include a hammer with a claw end, fencing tool or a bolt cutter that you can manage BY YOURSELF in an emergency should you need to rescue your horse. If you keep wood fencing - pliers and tweezers to remove chunks and slivers.

Fencing becomes personal. It's what you like, what you can install (or have installed) and can maintain. Horses can do well in almost any fencing situation - if you watch them and keep your fences maintained. Hot wire, tape, rope - makes it a little easier and there are many kinds for all kinds of different looks.

I have a "smorgasbord" of buckets. I do know that they aren't the same today that they were in 1995 when I personally got back into horses after being overseas for 10 years. I still have some of the buckets i originally purchased in 1995 up in MT and have buckets I purchased last year here in NC that didn't last this up/down weather season. We have the little mini, hang over the fence type (hard plastic), different types/sizes of feed pans for ground feeding - plastic, stainless steel and the "old rubber tub". I also have both the 8qt rd/flat back buckets (Little Giant or Fortiflex) and the 20 qt flat back buckets (little Giant or Fortiflex) - mostly in purple since that is our farm colors but also in other colors due to needing a new one or finding some on sale. I personally like the 20 qt flat buckets best - they can be used for a multitude of uses besides just feeding and can be set on the ground or attached to fencing/walls at heights needed for the horse or for you. I have a friend that swears by the hang over the gate/fence type buckets (both the little mini sized ones and the large ones for the biggies) - but she is able to strap them down and the horses/ponies leave them alone. Mine - they removed them and then I had to go hunting them before I could feed - w/ the number of equine I have that made feeding an impossible chore!

Some of the best buckets have been the "free ones" - they come with equine supplements or from the local delis/bakeries/restaurants around us! You will find that you will use lots of buckets for many different things when you have horses (I love our BRUSH buckets that were color coded either for each horse or for each child). I, too, use bleach a couple of times a year for cleaning - try to do it in the spring and the fall.

There are many on-line catalogs now for equine. There are quite a number for Minis alone - several that are listed on this forum... You can peruse them for ideas and choices and purchasing.

Are you looking at youngsters or older trained minis? Mares, geldings? Size? How much paddock/pasture space do you have?

I find that ours pretty regularly exercise themselves - even my "oldsters" - but that's due to them all having access to each other. I have some that probably wouldn't exercise at all if they didn't have encouragement. The larger minis can be driven and many do enjoy having a "job" - whether it be driving, helping w/ farm work or in-hand exercising and therapy work. The smaller your paddock/pasture arrangement, the more exercise you may need to provide.

I have had very few equine over the years that played w/ any toys. I see all these fantastic videos (some from my acquaintances & friends) - but most of ours - don't seem to ever develop a love for any toys. It really varies with the equine, I think. My boarder has purchased several toys already for her penned mini - we spend more time chasing the darn things down when the wind pushes or blows them out then the horse plays w/ them. With our new set up here (very spread out) - I am getting much more exercise myself!

and so that you know - I LOVE our equine. I spend much time with them - not just because it's required for caring for them, but because I enjoy it. We currently own 2 larger equine, 1 "medium" 1/2 shetland pony, 1 "small" 1/2 shetland pony, 21 Shetlands in sizes from 32" - 44" in height. Our boarder has a mini that I think is 29/30" and now has one of our shetlands that is about 32/33" now (not yet 2 so still growing). Our current pasture situation is about 7 acres perimeter fenced, with paddocks w/i that (not finished yet). The two stud pens are 3 - 16' panels long and 20' (approximately) wide, 1 - 16' panel & 1 - 4' gate. Our round pen, when reconstructed, will be 60' - allowing us to work the larger ponies/horses from the ground or under saddle and actually hook/drive the smaller ones to a cart. We pleasure drive and drive for "work" - single, pairs and 3 abreast pulling farm equipment, carts, carriages and wagons. My goal is to have a 4 - 6 up hitch similar to Bsharps' set up - but not sure we'll get there... We just moved onto this property in December 2014 and the last of our ponies was picked up on January 19th from their temporary living quarters... The total property size is 21 acres - most of it in trees that will eventually have walking/riding/driving paths thru it w/o destroying the forested areas.


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## lkblazin (Mar 3, 2015)

Welcome!! Minis are fantastic little balls of awesome. I feel like everyone has already answered your questions. If there are more ask away


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## Tess (Mar 3, 2015)

Hi,

The age of the minis I am looking at are 2,3, and 6 yrs old. I am probably going to chose the 2 and 3 year olds. According to the breeder *She stood 36-1/2 inches on 7-24-14. She has a super dispodition, and prefers people to feed(usually). She has a maternal 1/2 sister thats been shown to top 10, and other siblings that have shown very well.* That is the 3 yr old mini. According to the breeder *Amber is a pretty little girl with a laid back, easy going outlook on life. She doesn't really care what you do. She stood 33 inches on 7-24-14.* That is the 2 yr old. According to the breeder *Charity is 34 inches, and a spirited, striking looking mare. She can be hard to catch, but is easy to handle once she is. *That is the 6 yr old.

All three of them are mares. I want to chose two of the three minis.

My paddock is a little less than half an acre.




This is the 2 yr old mini.




This is the 6 yr old.




This is the 3 yr old.

Which two would you pick?

Thanks to everyone


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## Tess (Mar 3, 2015)

Oops the pictures did not load.

Sorry


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## Marsha Cassada (Mar 3, 2015)

The "spirited striking looking" mare that is hard to catch may teach you the most. I think a 6 year old is great as they begin to get a good mind at that time.

The gentle ones sound very nice for a first-horse. And with a show background you may have a better idea of temperament. Some so-called gentle horses quickly show another side to their natures when someone begins to ask something of them.

Sounds as though you have not met them in person. If you are young, you may enjoy a challenge. If you are older, like I am, you will want something less challenging!

Also, be sure the breeder will work with you if either of the horses doesn't turn out to be right for you. That happens; sometimes personalities just don't click. Ask in advance if you may return the horse and perhaps trade for another.


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## Tess (Mar 3, 2015)

Hi,

I have a couple more questions.

Also, I do not plan to ever breed my minis.

Can I teach a mini to lie down? How long do you think it would take?

What are the best grooming tools/what brand? How many times should I groom per week?

When my minis come I want them to be as comfortable as possible. Inside my run into shed should I put some bedding in it like a stall?

I like braiding hair. Could I braid my mini's mane/tail? Would the braids fall out? Also, I have heard of people painting their horse's hooves, is that a possibility? I would like to braid and paint not for show but just to make them look prettier. I also have heard that horses love Jolly Balls. Would a mini like one too?

Thanks for all the help with my previous questions.

I have chosen not to electrify it to start. Depending on what happens I might later. I also have chosen to use Mane-n-Tail for the shampoo. I chose to get the black rubber tubs for the food and water.






Thanks,

Tess


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## Tess (Mar 3, 2015)

Marsha Cassada said:


> The "spirited striking looking" mare that is hard to catch may teach you the most. I think a 6 year old is great as they begin to get a good mind at that time.
> 
> The gentle ones sound very nice for a first-horse. And with a show background you may have a better idea of temperament. Some so-called gentle horses quickly show another side to their natures when someone begins to ask something of them.
> 
> ...


Thanks!

I have not met them in person yet. I plan to when I have their living space set up. I will [SIZE=11pt]definitely[/SIZE] ask the breeder about that.


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## Max's Mom (Mar 3, 2015)

You are about to embark on an exciting adventure! And you are asking great questions!

I am going to make an assumption based on some of your questions that you do not have previous experience with horses. If that is the case, I think it would be very helpful for you to get connected with someone who does, whether a trainer or a local horse friend. Mini horses are very cute and wonderful pets, but they do require handling skills that need to be learned. Some of that can be learned from videos and books, so that's a resource, too, but having someone show you in person is really helpful. I'd recommend reading up on common health and horse care issues if you haven't already done so.

If you are a beginner, I'd also be cautious about getting a horse that is hard to catch. If you are just learning, it is so much less stressful when you can learn on a horse that is already well trained and doesn't have any behavioral issues that you will need to figure out how to solve.

Grooming can be done everyday if you want to, and it's a great way to bond with your horses and check them over. Basic tools you can get at any tack shop should be fine- a rubber curry comb, a mane and tail brush, a hard bristled brush, and a soft brush, plus a hoof pick are good ones to start with, and also a shedding blade for spring. My daughter loves to braid and does it frequently, but she always takes out the braids when she's done so he won't get itchy and rub it and so he can be protected more from flies. You can find little elastic braiding bands which will stay in place pretty well. Hoof polish is very drying, so keep that in mind. It might be better just for special occasions. You might have fun with dressing them up for a photo shoot!

Taking them for walks is great fun! I love doing that. You can also set up different obstacles and practice going through and around them. It is great for training, but also fun. I do horse agility. Look that up online. It might be something else to do with them to keep you both exercised and having fun.


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## lkblazin (Mar 3, 2015)

Laying down with my girls took about a min for my youngest and three mins for my others. If you do it in a grass pasture and let them eat the grass once down, but only when down. Mane and tail is great. Along with cowboy magic detangler.

Dirt won't hurt. In fact its good for there skin. Don't over groom. Your mini will role to deter bugs and exfoliate there skin. Also cool down. I do not prefer a brand. I just look for something that gets the job done. I am a dog groomer. So you'd think I have a preference. But I use a human hair brush and hard and soft brushes with a curry. No combs. Unless braiding.


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## paintponylvr (Mar 4, 2015)

Ditto what Max's Mom and Marsha said as to training and learning.

There are several books and videos out that show how to teach a horse to lay down. Some minis do very well learning lots of tricks - usually there are others you do before actually laying down (at least the way I was taught) and then you build on that until you get the lay down.

Brushes - I always go back to old standards. I love a good rubber curry comb used counter clock wise to work hair loose, a stiff brush (for some reason - these are really hard to find these days) to brush the lifted dirt/hair off and a soft brush to finish. For the legs & head, I use the "gloves" from the bath department of Wal-Mart and then a soft brush. My guys LOVE their "scrubbies" when they are hot/sweaty after working in hand or driving. For bathing, we often use the hand held "poof scrubbies"...





I prefer a human hair brush w/ medium soft bristles for manes/tails and to work out the inevitable witches knots I use either a hoof pick or the hooked end of pulling comb along with Cowboy Magic, Olive Oil, WD-40 or products from the Ethnic section of a drug store (Wal-Mart).

And the all important hoof pick - go to a horse store (if you have them?) - and hold several different types to see how they feel in your hand. Let the cashier/store owner know you are learning - and have them show you how to hold it to use it (different than picking it up!) If you are lucky - a trainer, knowledgeable owner or a farrier will be there when you are there and they'll show you with their invisible co-hort (the horse) how to pick up a leg and clean that hoof. Have the breeder you are buying from show you the techniques they use and allow you to get comfortable using them. NEXT BEST choice is safety and handling by Cherry Hill - LOADS of pictures.

Susan Harris's - "Grooming to Win" covers a LOT of grooming info including different styles of trimming manes/tails for specific breeds and several kinds of braiding.

Braiding - O YAY!! Who says you have to show to braid? There are all kinds of braiding out there. You can use braiding to keep hair from getting caught in mud/briars or you can use it to be pretty. Theres some for tails and some for manes. There's the Saddle type braiding w/ ribbon (not left in on pasture) and there's Continental braiding that looks like a lattice when finished. There's the draft style of braiding (a pseudo french braid) and actual french braiding (not left in when un-attended - especially the tail). We've started braiding on our young foals to train their manes and tails to lay down. Next week when we take 4 boys in to be castrated - their tails will be done in a single long braid and the longer tails will then be fed thru at the top of the braid and "taped" so they don't get into any drainage or the Vaseline we use on insides of hind legs while the boys heal. We've braided manes, forelocks and tails for hunter showing and we've done the braided manes for "draft style" for a show when driving to a wagon or parades.











the day before she foaled. Kept her tail out of the way of birthing (on pasture) and I used to do all the manes during the winter - re-doing the braids every 4 weeks or so or when the braids said they needed it.






Our attempt at show braiding - to be "perfect" the braids needed to be smaller, shorter and the tail also should have been done. BUT it was enough. Vixen is a 1/2 shetland that we bred and raised and 2 of our daughters spent many hours riding her and she was an awesome lesson pony. Still is - at a hunter/jumper barn...






Grooming can be done daily - to check the condition of your horses and to learn the ways/wiles of your new partners. Or as little as once a week. Our pastured ponies often get no more than 1x every 8 weeks - where we knock off the dust, trim and comb out manes and tails - on their "pedicure" days.


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## lkblazin (Mar 4, 2015)

I taught my girls how to flex/bend. Then lifted there left front leg. After that gently put my weight into them, and waited for them to give. They got to the point of when I go to flex there head they already started to go down. But then I stopped training cause they are pregnant.

Also agree with talking to a local about minis


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## Tess (Mar 4, 2015)

Hi,

I have read books on taking care of them. Also, I took horse riding lessons, where I learned how to groom a horse and wash them as well as ride. I know how to put a halter on, walk and groom/wash but that's it. I have never owned a horse before.

Thanks for all the wonderful advice,

Tess


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## targetsmom (Mar 4, 2015)

Welcome to the wonderful world of minis! Good questions and good advice. Be sure to check out the information pages on Lil Beginnings (link from the Main Page you can get to from the very top of this one) and there is also a lot of information on our website, both general info and for our 4-Hers.http://www.ontargetminiatures.com/otm-4h.html If you want a registered mini, be sure that the person you are buying from is the registered owner (the papers are in THEIR NAME), as that is one of the most common issues with new owners that I see.

Most of oiur fencing is 4" 2"X4" non-climb and over 10 years old, with no electric. BUT, that being said, I did get a nasty black eye when our largest mini (37") rolled and manged to get 2 feet caught UNDER the fence and 2 feet stuck THROUGH the fence. Luckily he did not panic, but trying to free him was quite an ordeal beacuse of his size, and in the process he managed to catch me in the eye with a back foot. No matter how safe you think things are, horses seem to be able to find a way to get hurt. One suggestion would be to find a vet and have them visit your new minis to kep them up to date on vacinnations (get their records when you buy). A good vet like ours will look things over and recommend changes for the health and safety of all concerned.

Having a mentor who can help you out is always a good idea, and perhaps you can join a local miniature horse Club and find someone. Or anyone with horse experience that is willing should be able to help. You can also find a lot of help on here eitehr by asking questions or searching for a topic. You might want to search for "books" to see what others have recommended.

Good luck and have fun as I am sure you will!


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## AngC (Mar 5, 2015)

It's a smidge disconcerting to me that you're asking questions regarding what I consider to be incidentals. ...such as grooming tools, shampoos, jolly balls, etc. (The jolly ball is a nice sturdy horse toy; mine is purple and out in the barn collecting dust. The only one to show any interest was Baby, and her attention span was about 2 minutes unless I was out there _jollying_ with her, in which case she lasted maybe 3 minutes.)

I'll be the first to admit that I charged into horse ownership without a clue. I suspect I had a little more experience than you, but my experience was sadly outdated. I gotta' say, the first things I thought of were not the concerns you've mentioned. I thought about things like a horse trailer (it cost lots; bought used; it sucked; then lost money getting a trailer that worked for us.) I checked out the nearest vet; the nearest vet hospital; found a farrier; etc. ( uhhh, you do realize their toenails need to be trimmed in addition to being painted?) Costs me 50 bucks a pop, per horse. ...every 6 weeks, except when Baby had laminitis, then I had to pay more for the special trimming; dental goo in her hooves, and trims starting every 2 weeks.

I don't know where you live; your location says "Open Prairie." Do you have a food source? For example, do you plan to feed hay? In some areas of the country, I wonder how easy it is to obtain good hay at this time of year?? A half acre might be adequate storage room for two horses, but it is not enough to feed one small horse year round. Nicky, has slightly less than a half acre; he's smaller than the 36-inch measurement of the horses you mentioned. I'd have to dig out my records, and count on my fingers, but I definitely know that he cannot last an entire year on that amount of pasture. Pasture grass grows well here, but it's just not enough.

You mentioned you've read some books. I'm keen on books. Two I would recommend are: _101 Ground Training Exercises_, by Cherry Hill and _Horse Agility Handbook_ by Vanessa Bee (that one may even have something about teaching a horse how to lie down as you wanted.) Unfortunately, our mare, is stuck on the chapter about haltering. I hired a trainer who ended up frustrated and left me with the advice that some horses might be better off sold; I've hung with Coco and she's actually doing better, but that leads to my next comment....

Your photos didn't display here on the forum, but it was an easy Google to find the website for your potential purchases, based on the description you copied into your post. I gotta' tell you, the first thing I saw were several mentions of "hard to catch." A horse that's "hard to catch" is frustrating. If I were you I'd give it some thought; just saying....

Oh and you mentioned that you didn't want to breed: Well, the older mare has this description: *She can be hard to catch, but is easy to handle once she is. She has been exposed to a bay & white pinto for a July foal, but we're unsure if she took.*

uhhh, I'm no expert, but since this is March, I would think they'd have tested and know by now?

Anyway I'll shut up now because I don't know if your seller is a poster here on the forum, and I really don't want to tick anyone off. One last comment, I don't know squat about pintos, and I'm not entirely sure which horses you were considering but the mention of LWO would make me nervous.


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## chandab (Mar 5, 2015)

AngC,good post.

Just an FYI, if you're not planning on breeding, then LWO is a non issue, if the horse is alive, it's just fine. LWO is only a serious concern when breeding, because you don't want to breed two positive horses together, as you have a 25% chance of a foal with two copies of the gene and it won't survive.


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## Tess (Mar 5, 2015)

Hi,

Do you use the Mane-n-Tail Shampoo on the coat as well as on the mane/tail?

Thanks,

Tess


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## Ryan Johnson (Mar 5, 2015)

Hey Tess,

The product should specify whether it can be used as a body shampoo as well as for the mane and tail.

If it doesn't specify , I wouldn't be using it.


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## Minimor (Mar 5, 2015)

Mane n tail shampoo is good for everything, body included. It is even good to use on your own hair. Truly--I have used it in the past. In truth I liked it better for my own hair than for the horses--I ended up leaving the big bottle in the house and bought a different shampoo for the horses.


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## 7fluffyfriends (Mar 5, 2015)

Welcome Tess!

Other than welcoming a new family member (birth/marriage/adoption) I am not sure what is more exciting than welcoming a new animal to the family. Minis are such a fun package and their size and longevity make them, I think, a great 'life' choice. You could purchase a younger animal in your youth/prime and still have that same animal when you are 'golden' and arthritic. Barring illness or accident they can easily live into their thirties - I know, as do many people on the forum have minis that age and older.

There are so many things you can do - just enjoy them - brush, walk, hike, drive, and generally show off to friends and neighbors. The more you handle them and expose them to new things, the more versatile they become.

I totally agree with those who have mentioned taking another look at the mini that can be hard to catch. This can be an interesting challenge that you enjoy overcoming, or it can just make you want to throw your hands in the air and yell! My small herd has a hard to catch mini that has gotten easier over the years, but walking away is her "automatic default". I have yet to be able to just walk up in the open paddock and lay my hands on her - I have to be crafty and bring treats - this can get annoying at times. Once I have my arm over her back she stands nicely and is very sweet. (She is the one I asked forum members for help in driving a couple of months ago)

I apologize if I am not understanding, but it sounds as if you have not actually met the horses yet? Depending on the distance and your circumstances the trip to see them before you buy would be worth some expense and time.

You have probably already got this covered, but just a thought..... do you have a farrier? vet? lined up for future needs?

Good luck and be safe!


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## lkblazin (Mar 6, 2015)

I use the mane n tail conditioner for my hair. Otherwise I use dawn dish soap for the girls shampoo. With a Chris Christensen protein product


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## paintponylvr (Mar 6, 2015)

Mane N' Tail is great! For me, for our dogs and for the horses. I mix w/ water and actually use it 1/2 strength - for all of us.

The conditioner is meant as a leave in - I find that it makes the manes too ... sticky, gloppy and heavy. I use it 1/2 strength as above but then still rinse it out.

This post has been awesome - bouncing around in w/ answers to many differnt things. Neat to see such varied experiences and posts!


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## AngC (Mar 6, 2015)

For shampoo type items, I feel pretty comfortable using anything marketed at human use (I suspect human products probably undergo more testing and are more regulated.) I've actually abandoned Mane N Tail because the conditioner is so "gloppy." One reason I've switched is that when the manufacturer stamps "horse" on the label they usually up the price significantly. I've been playing around with Garnier Fructis products. I've got a couple "leave-in" type products of that brand that I haven't tested yet (ran out of warm weather bathing season last year.)

Nobody has responded much to your initial question about insurance. Which type? There's medical/mortality type for the horse and there's liability type for you. For medical/mortality you'll have to contact insurance companies for quotes, most of them don't put costs on-line. Regarding liability, I would think it depends on circumstances. For example, if you own your own home and your horse injures someone (even if they trespass on your property--check out attractive nuisance laws in your state) you might as well just sign over your savings account and the title to your house. If you don't own a home or have a savings account, they'll just attach your wages for the next billion years. Most homeowner policies don't even cover big dogs, much less horses, unless you specifically add them (for an additional cost, of course.) That said, I don't have either type. Which might be a stupid choice. For example, if I had medical insurance I would have made out big-time in the last couple years, but if I bought it now I probably wouldn't have a sick horse for the years. I haven't spent on liability insurance either, but rather have relied on other methods. Never underestimate the stupidity of other people. For example, we now have electrical wire on the outside of our wooden fencing after some lady was trying to stuff her toddler through the rails at Nicky. Just this past weekend, a young boy was lying on the ground on his stomach halfway into Nicky's pasture under both wooden and electric fences, with a dog no less. Nicky's blind as a bat but he likes to chase dogs, and in addition to being a stallion his blindness causes him to be a little spooky when things happen outside his normal conditions (like little boys doing stupid things.)

Another comment on vets... One thing I didn't realize when we got our first two horses is that you can have a vet check (by a vet you hire.) Ours was an auction situation so they did have coggins certificates and the vet hospital had a vet check them all out and they were dewormed, but.... one of them ended up dead within the first three months. And if I sound like I'm harping on costs/expenses I am. I came out fairly cheap on that one (around $2000) when you add up the initial cost of the horse, the vet bills, and the cost of disposal (that one was a real head twist... Before I bought, I had really not considered that I would have a dead horse on my hands and what to do with it.) Anyway, I think a vet check could save you some grief; I wish I had of known about it.


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## Tess (Mar 6, 2015)

Hi,

My 3-sided run in shed has a floor. Should I put some bedding in it? What kind? They might want to lay down in the shed.

Thanks,

Tess


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## FurstPlaceMiniatures (Mar 6, 2015)

What is the floor? I would worry about it being slick when wet.


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## Tess (Mar 6, 2015)

The floor is plywood. It probably would not get that wet inside because it is facing away from the weather front. I also have wooden panels which would protect the minis from the weather. I was thinking if they wanted to lay down inside the shed they could on some nice bedding.

Also, what type of trailer would be nice to haul them? I am not showing so I do not need a fancy one. My trailer would only be used for going to the vet and bringing them home from the breeder.

Thanks


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## Tess (Mar 6, 2015)

Hi,

What is a nice turnout/fleece blanket for a mini? Where I live the temps can get down to 10* (F) in winter and I usually get a lot of snow.

Thanks,

Tess


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## FurstPlaceMiniatures (Mar 6, 2015)

Plywood wi be very slick even when not wet. I would reccomend putting some mats down or tearing out the floor.


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## Minimor (Mar 6, 2015)

I use straw for bedding. Wet plywood will be slippery--and remember it will get wet from pee and even poop, not just rain or snow--so you will want it covered. Deep straw will give good footing. So will shavings if you prefer those


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## Max's Mom (Mar 6, 2015)

For liability insurance you could look into joining the United States Equestrian Federation. I haven't done it yet, but heard about it. Unless your minis are very valuable, I don't think you would need to insure them.

You could put rubber stall mats over your plywood floor and then lightly bed them. I think that would save your floors from urine and the shavings might provide some traction and comfort if they want to lie down. Be aware, however, that many times minis enjoy being outside of the shelter when we think they should be inside it!

There are many different opinions about blanketing. However, if your minis are going to live outside 24/7, I would be cautious about blanketing them routinely. I'd see the blanket as something to use only in extreme conditions, like high winds with a very low temperature. Without blankets, most (not all, but most) minis will grow a wonderful coat that will protect them very well even in snow and cold, and with the type of shelter you describe, they will be able to get out of the bad weather when then want to. What will dangerously chill a horse is being wet under a wet blanket, which can happen if the weather turns and your aren't around to deal with it.

Trailers- I can't afford one. If you have the funds to do it, you can invest in a safe used 2 horse that could be modified for minis. Another route is to know someone with a trailer that you could borrow/rent in the event of an emergency or occasional trip. If you don't plan on showing or doing mini therapy of site, you might not need to make the costly investment in a trailer that you will hardly ever use.


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## AngC (Mar 7, 2015)

Tess said:


> Also, what type of trailer would be nice to haul them? I am not showing so I do not need a fancy one. My trailer would only be used for going to the vet and bringing them home from the breeder.


We started with a used, 3-horse slant (big horse size.) For hauling our minis, we removed the dividing bar-thingies in back; Nicky got stuffed up front in the tackroom (after removing spare tire and saddle racks.) From what I've read there's methods where you can adapt "big" horse trailers to minis, but it was just becoming one huge pain in the buttocks. ...add to it, the husband hated hauling that thing. So we traded it in.

You might want to consider the towing capacity of the vehicle that will be towing. Another thing I felt was important was a double set of wheels/tires (if you blow a tire, you've still got your trailer riding on something besides the axle.)

We ended up with a Hawk brand trailer; I'm quite pleased with it and the bonus is that I can tow it with my dinky Ford Ranger.


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## paintponylvr (Mar 7, 2015)

Trailers - I've used 2 horse trailers, 3 horse slant loads w/ the dividers latched open or removed, a single axle - custom built stock trailer (in a pinch - it carried our 2 shetlands down from MT to NC) and currently own two "stock type" trailers. One is a 1969 Gore trailer with a center divider and had a canvas roof (since getting the new trailer I haven't had the canvas replaced) and a 2012 CM steel stock trailer. The new trailer is both slightly longer and wider than the older one. I can put 6 ponies in the front (if they aren't too round) and the wagon and up to 8 sets of harness in the back of it...

Horses passing - not something an owner thinks about at first! - In MT, my parents buried a colt that died. 4 yrs later, I had a colt not make it but the mare wouldn't let us/vet remove him (large pony mare). When she finally accepted his death, we were able to remove him but in serious blizzard conditions could not bury him. We placed his body (at the vet's recommendation) in front of a fox den about a mile from my parent's home - the fox made it and to this day there are still fox living in that den!! Here in NC, we've buried a total of 5 since 1997. 1 - had to have permission from land owners we were leasing from to bury her. Another colt - a friend took him to her place and buried him next to her old lesson horse whom she'd owned for 20 years. 2 were euthanized by a vet and then buried on our leased land and one passed on her own - but the back hoe owner decided (too wet) it would be easier to have us load into our trailer and then he'd pick it up. He buried her on his property (wouldn't do that again-but it worked at the time)... I've also taken 2 foals up to the State Vet School and have had them do necropsy/disposal (significant difference in cost from 2003 to 2013). Here on our new place, we'd have to get a back hoe operator to come dig for us and we'd have to double check water tables as to where we can place graves (haven't done that yet). Several small properties on our road all have wells.

We don't currently have insurance on our ponies - but have had some different policies in the past... Used to carry equine business/farm liability insurance - stopped giving lessons when I wasn't giving enough to cover the insurance payments.

Lots of bedding on a wood floor. One barn I worked for had old wood floors - they had "cleats" (not sure if that's what they were) or "furring strips" down on some of the floors, but still heavily bedded them to keep the beween cleats spots from getting too slick.


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## Tess (Mar 7, 2015)

Hi,

I was planning on going to see the minis, if we like them I will go back to the breeder with the vet. I also am going to ask the breeder for the health record of the mini. The stories of the horses passing away are very sad. I would not want that to happen to me. About the trailer I was thinking of just renting one when I need it. Thanks again for more wonderful advice.

One more question. Is it okay if when we chose to buy the minis we ask if we can board them at the breeder's place? I just asked that because I am thinking of buying them before I am done with the paddock. I want to see them soon, if everything goes well I am going to buy them. I want to see them soon because I don't want someone else buying them if I like them. Here where I live it can get pretty hard to find minis for sale. So here it had to be "finders keepers".

Thanks,

Tess


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## FurstPlaceMiniatures (Mar 7, 2015)

Boarding is a very very very good idea for first time horse owners. It will let you learn while still having the benefits of ownership.

I have been riding my whole life and grew up with horses, and I board. I work 70 hours a week and wouldn't have time to properly care for them. Instead of training time I would only have 'care time.' I get up there a LOT and love my board owner though. I trust him completely.

As far as horses passing, very few good rendering companies will charge you. It has always been free for me. I do not own property so I couldn't bury my colt that passed in December. The option was to bring him to the farm compost pile (a big hassle) 20 mins away where I live, or have him rendered. Ask local farmers who they use for rendering. It is a good number to have on hand - although hard to think about.


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## Minimor (Mar 7, 2015)

Do ask if you can board the horses with the breeder for a time after (if) you buy them. Most sellers will not mind keeping the horse for awhile. Be sure to ask how much you will be charged to keep the horses. Some sellers will keep the horse for free for 30 days and then start charging board after that; others may want to charge board right from time of purchase. Be aware that once you purchase the horses, even if they are still under the care of the seller, you will be responsible for any and all vet and farrier costs--those fees will not likely be covered by what you are paying for board.


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## Tess (Mar 8, 2015)

Hi,

The land in the mini pen has small rocks and the dirt is more like clay. Do I need to till it? Would It be safe to till with the rocks? Or should I buy footing for it? If I buy footing how deep should it be? Grass does not grow in the paddock only weeds. I am open to different suggestions about the land. How do you keep yellow jackets & flies away? I heard they like water. How would I keep them away from the mini's water? I read somewhere that I could put a little vinegar in the water to keep them away. Would the mini's drink it still? Is it safe to put vinegar in it? If there are other ways to keep those nasty bugs away please tell.

Thanks,

Tess


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## AngC (Mar 9, 2015)

Tess said:


> ...Do I need to till it? Would It be safe to till with the rocks?
> 
> ...How do you keep yellow jackets & flies away?
> 
> ...I read somewhere that I could put a little vinegar in the water to keep them away...Is it safe to put vinegar in it?


In order:

1) Tilling rocks (gravel)? Personally, I wouldn't do it with our tiller. The tiller cost too much. I suggest you wear safety glasses.

2) Instead of fleece blankets (based on the time of year) I would suggest you invest in fly masks. (I have never seen a yellow jacket bother any of ours.)

3) I'm sure I'll learn something based on my comment, but I've never heard of putting vinegar in horse water.


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## amysue (Mar 9, 2015)

Many people add a cap of apple cider vinegar to their horse's water bucket and claim that it keeps biting insects away. I've tried it yo no avail, as it just made my horses not want to drink....which is very dangerous. Teach youngsters to stand for being sprayed with fly repellent. To avoid bees, keep pastures and barns free of debris and overhangs that provide ideal nesting sites. Gates with holes in the bottom, machinery and equipment heat up in the sun and provide ideal yellow jacket nesting spots. They recommend painting the underside of eaves and roof overhangs or porch ceilings light blue to deter bees from nesting. The idea is that they mistake the blue surface for sky and won't nest there.


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## Miniv (Mar 9, 2015)

We have a 3 Horse slant bumper pull, but for one mini going a short distance, we tend to use my old mini van.

Rubber mats are the best floor covering.

We have often kept a sold horse for free, up to 30 days, while the buyer is finishing preparing for it.

Our dirt paddocks do have some rocks sticking up, but they are too deeply buried to pull out, so we just drag the area.

We don't have a lot of yellow jackets, but for flies I use a horse fly spray and to apply on their faces, I spray it on a wash cloth and wipe their faces.


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## 7fluffyfriends (Mar 9, 2015)

We have never had a problem with yellow jackets, bees, etc. bothering the horses, even though we have had some paper wasp nests form in the nearby workshop. Maybe because the horses aren't worried about them, the bugs don't react as they do sometimes with people.

The only way I have used vinegar in regard to the horses was as a homemade fly repellent. I think the recipe was apple cider vinegar and water? I don't remember but am sure the recipe could be found on the internet if wanted.

The homemade spray seemed to help a little but was more of a refreshing body wash I think for the horses!

I think we love the feel of fleece more than our horses do! This can be a good time of year though to find some bargains on blankets as folks clean out their barn cupboards for the year. You would then have them in the Fall /Winter months.


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## Tess (Mar 9, 2015)

Hi,

The ground in the mini paddock gets very muddy when it rains. For drainage would a mixture of dirt and sand work for footing? How about 2-3 inches deep?

Thanks,

Tess


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## Marsha Cassada (Mar 10, 2015)

Tess said:


> Hi,
> 
> The ground in the mini paddock gets very muddy when it rains. For drainage would a mixture of dirt and sand work for footing? How about 2-3 inches deep?
> 
> ...


Sand is good for drainage, but I wouldn't mix dirt with it. Dirt+water=mud.


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## Tess (Mar 10, 2015)

Do I need footing at all?


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## Minimor (Mar 10, 2015)

If it turns to mud is there an area where they can get out of the mud? You don't want them standing in mud all the time.


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## Tess (Mar 10, 2015)

Yes, I have a run into shed. I also have a little deck next to the shed off the ground. There are a few places where the ground is not that muddy.

I read that I could put some vinegar in a spray bottle and spray it on the hooves to help prevent thrush. Is that true?

The shed is off the ground and is about 8" high to walk in, would I need to build a ramp for them?


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## MyGoldenSunny (Mar 10, 2015)

Apple cider vinegar (ACV) is very good for the hoof! Spray it on the bottoms to heal and prevent thrush.

And yes ACV does MANY good things for the horse to put it in their water! It's really good for horses that don't drink enough water because most horses love the taste and will drink more water. When it's put in their water it will ward off flys from getting on the horse, because the flys hate the smell, and when it's in their water it will keep the flys off their poop so the flys won't want to lay their eggs in it. Therefore less flys! You can also dilute it with water and use it as a natural fly spray. I do all of the above with good results! : )

Note!!! This is Apple Cider Vinegar, not just the white vinegar, very important!


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## Max's Mom (Mar 10, 2015)

Tess, they should manage an 8 inch step up without a ramp, but they might not do on their own. I can lead my horse onto a deck, but it wouldn't be his natural choice, as the footing wouldn't feel "normal". I don't see them choosing to get out of the mud that way. Is the mud there because it is spring, or is the mud there any time it rains? If there is any way to place the paddock,or most of the paddock, on higher, firmer ground, I'd highly recommend it, because any place that is muddy without horses will become a quagmire of mud once horses have been on it for a few weeks or less. If drainage is an issue, I don't think a few inches of sand on top will work for you long term. It will eventually get turned up into the soil. You might need to excavate the soil down a foot or so, and then add something like gravel and stone dust, then sand. I'm no expert, though.


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## AngC (Mar 11, 2015)

Tess said:


> The ground in the mini paddock gets very muddy when it rains. For drainage would a mixture of dirt and sand work for footing? How about 2-3 inches deep?


This: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_drain

I'm not sure of your location or amount of rainfall. If you have mud, you have water and dirt. Water either evaporates or drains; it has to go somewhere. You can toss a couple inches of fill out there, and eventually you'll still have mud. The water has to go somewhere. I wouldn't bother putting down 2 to 3 inches of anything. Before you fill, you have to do something for drainage.


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## AngC (Mar 11, 2015)

Tess said:


> Yes, I have a run into shed. I also have a little deck next to the shed off the ground. There are a few places where the ground is not that muddy.
> 
> I read that I could put some vinegar in a spray bottle and spray it on the hooves to help prevent thrush. Is that true?


Based on my observations, horses never do what you want them to do. If you make them a nice little area or a deck or whatever; they're not going there. They'll do something silly that screws up your plans like standing in mud ...then peeing in it so they get a really nasty, stinky case of thrush. To prevent thrush, in my opinion, keep their hooves out of the mud, and especially keep the hooves out of muddy areas that have contaminants, like horse pee.

There's several thrush treatments off-the-shelf (that stain vigorously.) Thrush smells so nasty, I would go with one of those, vice experimenting with vinegar just so I wouldn't have to smell that odor.


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## Tess (Mar 11, 2015)

Hi,

We only get some rain in spring and a little in fall. We very rarely get rain in summer. We get a lot of snow in winter.

There are places in the paddock where there is no mud. But when it rains there is a lot of mud near the back corner of the paddock.

The shed is near the front of the paddock/near the gate. We are putting the food and water tubs in the front of the paddock.

There is only very little to no mud near the front of the paddock. Because their food, water and shed is near the front would they stay by it most of the time?

On the food / water tubs, should I build a little covering over it just to cover the food/ water from rain/snow? Or should I put the food and water in the shed (that is 8" off the ground)?

Thanks,

Tess


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## Tess (Mar 11, 2015)

If I build a little ramp up to the shed how would I make it non-slip?

Thanks everyone for all the answers and advice.


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## lkblazin (Mar 11, 2015)

I have a large deck next to the fence for my girls. The feeder is on it. Keeps there feet dry when eating. And great dry place for them to sun bathe. My black made likes to sun bleach her hair there.lol


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## candycar (Mar 12, 2015)

If it's only a small place that gets muddy, you could put pea gravel in that area. 4 inches deep would allow for loosing some in the mud, or put road textile down before the gravel. It will need to be replenished every 2 years or so depending on how much mud you have. My dry-lot has a muddy spot also, they stay out of it when it's real bad.

If your shed is big enough and they get along when eating, try putting their hay inside it. If it doesn't work, then you could build a cover outside. A cattle panel and tarp shelter would work well and is cheap to put up. If you build a wood ramp, put furring strips, across it or a nonslip mat. You could just make a dirt ramp also. Try it without the ramp first they will probably have no problem with the step. When do we get to see pics?


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## paintponylvr (Mar 12, 2015)

pics would be GREAT!!

There are so many options now for feeding hay/grain that are really inexpensive. If you and your hubby are at all building inclined or "crafty" - you could even make these hay tubs out of a blue/white/black/"red" food grade barrel that range in our area from $15 - 50 each...





or this type -




If you search the internet - there are many other ideas out there. I'm looking at these myself - I free feed coastal/bermuda hay here in NC in their pens and also out on "pasture". I like the bottom one, too, as we are looking at doing some free choice alfalfa pellets or cubes again and that looks like a great way to do so...

My OLD horse trailer was chest high on a lot of our ponies - when I left it out in the pasture and left the rear door open and the emergency door open as well - we often found the ponies sheltering in it. For some reason most preferred the trailer to the trees or the 3 sided, roofed shed.









It had a canvas roof - strapped on above Stuffy. In 2001, we redid the canvas roof - but the new one didn't last nearly as long. In 2009, we completely removed it and since getting my new trailer, we haven't replaced the canvas roof. The foals below - jumped right up into the trailer with their dams - this pic was taken after arriving at our destination for the day and was the first time they'd officially worn halters and led and were trailered as well. It is parked in this pic so that it was lower in the pic for the day - but often it is much higher when loading/unloading.






I personally don't see a problem with them learning to step up to your "floor"/deck. OR you could build a ramp - giving you a couple of different ways to "play" with your horse(s).


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## Tess (Mar 13, 2015)

These are great ideas. Thanks


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## Tess (Mar 15, 2015)

Hi,

Okay, it just rained today. I went outside to see how muddy it was. It's okay but I think I would like to use some gravel in the bad spots. Thanks for telling me about using gravel.

Also I have never used a shedding blade before. What kind should I buy? Or does it really matter?

Thanks,

Tess


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## AnnaC (Mar 16, 2015)

Another thing to consider that I dont think has been mentioned yet - if your two new girls have been living in a herd situation, they are going to miss their companions and will take time to settle down to their new life. Also they may not be happy being separated if you decide to take just one out for a walk or for any other reason. If this is the case you will have to be prepared to do several weeks of training, moving one away out of sight for just a few moments before retuning and then slowly increasing the time spent away until each one is happy and unstressed about being left alone. Hopefully though your new girls will prove happy to remain 'home alone' which will make things much easier for you!


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## Tess (Mar 17, 2015)

Okay, I just bought everything I need except the feed.

I plan on going to see the minis twice. The first time I go is to see if they are calm with me and to make sure they are healthy. The second time I go is to ask the breeder what type of feed and how much per meal/ bring them home.

Could I ask the breeder what vet/farrier she uses?

Would it be wise to bring the vet she suggests to see the minis and make sure they are healthy? Or should I find a different vet? I currently do not have a vet/farrier.

I heard you have to have their hooves trimmed every 6-8 weeks. Is that correct? How much does it cost?

If when the vet checks the horses he/she says they are not healthy should I just not buy that one or wait until it is healthy?

There is one horse I'm looking at named Ebony. The reasons why they are selling her are as follows: She is growing to much (they wanted her to stop at 36" but she is currently 36 1/2" tall she is still growing) and their studs will never be able to breed to her. They say that she has half siblings that have shown to top 10. She is 3 years old. They say that she had some halter training as a yearling but none since. She is very people oriented, she will leave her feed to say hi. Anybody can catch or handle her, though she might take advantage of a novice to do what she wants. She leads & ties super, and will stand for the farrier.

Does this sound like a nice horse?

Then there is this description of a mini named Amber. Amber is a beautiful little gal were not really sure we want to sell, but she is going to get a little bit bigger than what we really want. She is laid back & could really care less what you do with her, & she really has not been handled much. Her mother did very well in the show ring, & we think the filly could too. She stood 33 inches on 7-24-14. She is 2 years old.

Does that sound like a good mini?

Then there is this description of a mini named Envy. Envy is a sweety once caught, but can be difficult to catch at times. She stood 31 1/2 inches on 7-24-14. She has been pasture exposed to a 30 inch perlino for a May 2015 foal. She is LWO positive(stallion is negative).

Of coarse I have never had experience with foaling so I will ask if maybe I could get her after the foal is weaned. Maybe along with the foal. Does she sound like a nice mare? Should I get her and the foal (after it is weaned)? Or just the mare?

Just a question, in this scentence (Possibly willing to trade for a comparable quality mare, small squares of hay or a steer) does the comma mean "or" or "and"?

Thanks,

Tess


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## Ryan Johnson (Mar 17, 2015)

Hats off to you Tess for asking so many questions , I think its wonderful you are doing so much research.






This is just my opinion, but for your first horse , I don't think any of these minis would be perfect, and for your first horse you really do need "perfect"

I wouldn't be buying a horse that had any of these words in the description - " hard to catch", "not handled much", "could take advantage of a novice" if I were a first time owner.

Its really obvious how excited you are about buying your first mini, I just think you really need to look around for a while until you find one that is sweet, well mannered and will give you the opportunity to learn and grow with.

Where abouts are you located Tess ? maybe there are some members on here, that are near you, that maybe able to help you find that perfect one.

Wishing you all the best


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## FurstPlaceMiniatures (Mar 17, 2015)

I agree with Ryan.

The yearling they are politely saying is a spoiled brat. And they hint they don't think she'd be good for you by laying out she is not for a novice. Also as a yearling her attention span will be equivalent to that of a drunken goldfish. Yearlings are hard to work with, especially pushy spoiled ones.

The 2 year old, being a year older, will have the attention span of a sorta sober slightly more mature goldfish, but will still be a handful. It's the nature of being 2.

The mare in foal that's hard to catch you should not touch with a 10 foot pole. Being hard to catch stems from another behavior issue - mistrust or disrespect of humans are 2 that are common on hard to catch horses.

What you should be looking for is a 8yr old + mare or gelding that has been shown or taken to a ton of events. Learning together never ends well with horses, so you will want a horse with more experience than you!





Where are you located? We could help you find some promising ads!


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## Tess (Mar 17, 2015)

Hi,

Thanks for getting back to me. I live in Spokane, Washington. I have looked and looked for other listings of minis but have not found any. I hope you all can find some others. I would like if they have pictures on the listing. Please post the link(s). I have one pen, both horses are going to be in it so I want them to like each other. I would drive within 3 hrs away. My price limit for each one is $1,000. I might go to $1,500 if it is a really nice horse. I want to get two minis.

Thanks so much,

Tess


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## AngC (Mar 18, 2015)

Ryan Johnson said:


> ... I wouldn't be buying a horse that had any of these words in the description - " hard to catch", "not handled much", "could take advantage of a novice" if I were a first time owner.


Tess, you sound like you're in love; what's worse you sound like you're in love with horses you found on the internet and have never seen. In my opinion, you really need to re-think this; especially since you're willing to trailer 3 hours away.

A "hard to handle" horse is not much fun. I only have 3 examples, but...

Nicky (my avatar photo) bought at creditors auction is so easy. I can stroll up to him in the field and pop the halter on; I have to remember what the trainer taught me about looping a halter around his neck; most of the time I forget. Nicky taught *me* how to lunge. My hands/fingers often don't function correctly, especially when it's cold outdoors. Nicky just stands there and waits for me to finish (and he's this supposedly dangerous stallion.) His daughter who has been handled since about 24 hours after her birth will stand there and wait for me to fumble around with the halter. Our mare, Coco, who met many of the criteria that you are listing here for your potential purchase... well, it's been almost 4 stinking years. I've had a trainer who gave up on her. I'm not giving up on her, but oftentimes, I really have to discipline myself to deal with her. It is especially not fun to deal with Coco compared to horses that were either trained (Nicky) or were handled since birth (Baby.)


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## AngC (Mar 18, 2015)

Tess said:


> If when the vet checks the horses he/she .says they are not healthy should I just not buy that one or wait until it is healthy?


Run, don't walk. What if you wait and it doesn't get "healthy?" Would you pay for another vet exam? ..really?

Yup, hooves, every 6-8 weeks, unless you encounter issues then it may need to done more frequently.

I suggest you locate an independent food source. You're living in an area with pretty good hay; (in my opinion, the hay from the Soap Lake area is especially nice.) ...nice enough that I pay extra to get E. WA hay.


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## Tess (Mar 18, 2015)

Hi,

The horses I found were only 24 minutes away. That's awesome about the hay. I thought these horses were not the best. That's why I hope you all can find two minis worth it.

Thanks,

Tess


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## Tess (Mar 18, 2015)

Hi,

Okay so I found a few others. Tell me what you think of them. If any of you say that one of them would work for me I will ask for pics.

http://www.dreamhorse.com/ad/1958786/red-rail-farms-my-darling-tallie-black-miniature-horse-mare-black-roan-tobiano-filly-with-terrific-movement-washington.html

http://www.dreamhorse.com/ad/1976843/whimsical-equanimity-pistolero-rose-chestnut-miniature-horse-filly-2012-aspc-amhr-sorrel-pinto-filly-washington.html

http://www.dreamhorse.com/ad/1965806/4n-candelite-palomino-miniature-horse-mare-lovely-palomino-pinto-mini-mare-looking-for-retirement-home-washington.html

http://www.dreamhorse.com/ad/1964031/mare-sorrel-miniature-horse-mare-pinto-mare-washington.html

http://www.dreamhorse.com/ad/1931758/flicka-black-miniature-horse-filly-miniature-horse-washington.html

http://www.dreamhorse.com/ad/1980404/ltds-viva-la-magic-black-miniature-horse-mare-viva-la-magic-idaho.html

http://kpr.craigslist.org/grd/4865664611.html

Thanks


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## Max's Mom (Mar 18, 2015)

You will find them! They are out there, somewhere, even though you don't know where yet. Take your time and get the right horses for you, because once you have them they (should) be with you for a long time. Getting a horse or horses that aren't the right fit for you is going to cause a lot of heartache and frustration.

I have a friend, who, like you, is just getting started with horses and she is super excited. She leased a full sized horse for a while, but realized that riding isn't so much her thing. She decided that she wanted a mini for driving and just being a fun pet. Though she was really wanting to get started as soon as possible, it took a while to figure out exactly what would work best for her, and then finding the right one. At first she was thinking about young horses so she could have it for many years before it died, but then I helped her to understand what it really means to train a young horse. This isn't generally a good project for a beginner. Then we looked at rescues and while this seemed like a noble thing to do, again, it wasn't the best fit for her, because she really needs a horse that doesn't already have "issues". Eventually she fell in love with a wonderful older gelding. He's 18, but healthy and should have many more good years. He's been cared for and handled well for his whole life, and is an experienced driving horse who's "been there, done that" who can help her to learn. He is well behaved and is completely safe. She is adopting him for free because a great forever home is what his owner is looking for. If she had taken the first horse that she looked at, she wouldn't have found him.

I just say that to encourage you to take your time. It will be worth it when you find the right horses.


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## Max's Mom (Mar 18, 2015)

Okay, I just checked out a few links. I don't think any of us could tell you from those sorts of ads. People will say whatever they want to so about their horse, and it is really hard to go by those sorts of ads. I highly, highly recommend working with a knowledgeable mentor who doesn't stand to gain from you taking one of their horses off their hands.

You have previously expressed that you don't care about showing. These will be mostly your pets, right? If so, I think that your best bet is to forget about show potential, what their parents/siblings accomplished in the show world, etc. and focus on a horse that is currently very well trained. Practically everything has "potential". What you need is "actual". You don't need something that could eventually be caught and handled and led, but one that already is very comfortable with being handled, and is handled every day. When you see this horse you should be able to halter it and lead it with no problems. You should be able to pick up its feet with no problems. The horse should have a completely calm and relaxed disposition. Friendly is good, but sometimes when people say "friendly" what they are really saying is that the horse likes to get into your space and mug you for treats. I'd look for one that seems comfortable around you and respects you and others. As for age, there's no "best" age, but sometimes the older horses get overlooked unfairly. A horse in his/her teens who has been worked in a 4H program but who's kid has grown up could be a nice fit.

Good luck!


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## Tess (Mar 18, 2015)

Thanks


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## Tess (Mar 18, 2015)

Hi,

Could I look for them farther away and have them shipped here? If anyone on this forum is a breeder in the Inland Northwest please post your link(s). I would like to look at them in person once before buying. Even if it is far away.

Thanks,

Tess


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## MiniNHF (Mar 18, 2015)

Tess, trying going to http://www.minihorsesales.com/ they have sections of pet quality horses etc to weed them out from the more expensive show horses.


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## Tess (Mar 18, 2015)

What about this one?

Foaled 4/29/2005

Totally SWEET & totally SAFE!

This tiny mare would LOVE her own little girl (or boy!) to call her own!

Feona is a kind, gentle mare who has been successfully shown by a young child.

She's just waiting for another "kid" that she can show the ropes to.

Feona is a tiny, well balanced mare. She measures around 30" on a "tall" day.

If you are looking for a quality SMALL mare to add to your breeding program, Feona may be the right choice.

She has never been bred but is breeding sound.

Her bloodlines go back to the prolific Prince Tennessee Monashee.

Wonderful, talented little mare - looking for the perfect home.

Just to let everyone know I have a 12 year old daughter who is going to be with them/feeding them all the time.

Thanks,

Tess


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## Tess (Mar 18, 2015)

Hi,

When you buy a mini do you always pay the asking price or do you try and offer a percentage off?

Thanks,

Tess


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## Tess (Mar 18, 2015)

I found the mare I described above on minihorsesales.com on the Mares 3 and over page about 11 ads down. If you want to see pics there are some on that.

Thank you MiniNHF.


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## Ryan Johnson (Mar 18, 2015)

It will really depend on the seller. Some horses will be offered for sale with an asking price eg $2000 Firm. Some may say $2000 ono ( or nearest offer).

It doesn't hurt to ask if they are open to offers or if the price is firm.





The last mare you have posted does sound much better than the original three.

Tess, another thing you could try would be to ask the seller if they would be open to you taking the horse on a trial basis with option to buy. This will give you the opportunity to spend some time with the Mini and also your daughter to make sure she or he is what you are after.

I have just recently sold my little Shetland and actually asked the buyer if we could make it a 6 month trial for the same reasons that I mentioned above. They also thought this was a great idea and its also been good piece of mind for me, knowing that if it doesn't work out he will come back to me , so I can find a buyer more suitable.

Cheers Ryan


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## Tess (Mar 18, 2015)

Thank You Ryan.


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## MiniNHF (Mar 19, 2015)

Tess said:


> What about this one?
> 
> Foaled 4/29/2005
> 
> ...


I think she would be a great mini considering she has been shown with youth and is right in that great age range where she isnt a young buck and not to old. Since you dont plan on showing or breeding her you could probably get her price down a little bit.


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## Tess (Mar 19, 2015)

Yes, that is what I was thinking.


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## Tess (Mar 20, 2015)

Hi,

For a pet mini what is a reasonable price?

Thanks,

Tess


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## FurstPlaceMiniatures (Mar 20, 2015)

Honestly, it depends.

For my guy that was 41", unregistered, but really nice and DEAD broke to drive - I asked $1200 and got a ton of interest - like so much I thought I was asking too little. He was an old soul and seriously 'stupid proof' - a once In a lifetime pony. However he died of a freak unknown medical condition within 2 weeks of listing him - very glad I had only had people look at him and no one had paid for him! By the way he vetted clean too - one lady had a vet check done but was waiting on a Christmas bonus. He died of spinal cancer a week later. He was just 3 yrs old.

It depends on the horse really. I paid $500 for my current pony filly - and I stole her for that. She has had no training whatsoever and is a poophead - but she has out of this world conformation. I show and have experience though. To me, I stole her.

If broke to drive, or with show experience I would say around $800-$1000. However - you cannot put a price on peace of mind and a horse with a good brain is always worth their weight in gold and then some. My old pro of a show horse is one of those - I overpaid for him in the condition I bought him in - but his brain is just so perfect that I wish I could clone it and transplant it into all my horses! His value to me is far higher than anyone would pay.

My advice with horse pricing is this - if it 'feels' too high it prob is - and do not be afraid to walk away. There will be more! Or the seller could change their mind on your offer a day or 2 later and accept after all. Don't be insulting though - I've never got the price down more than 20%. If I had someone offer me only 50% what I was asking, I'd kick them out.


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## Minimor (Mar 20, 2015)

Pet minis come in all prices. Here in this area I would expect to pay $300 to $400; if you move into the $500-$600 range you would have many to choose from; for $800-$1200 you wod find one that you would be happy to show. (actually it would be quite possible to find show quality for less than $800). I don't know what prices are like in your area.


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## Tess (Mar 20, 2015)

Okay for a mini mare that has been shown by a child how much should she cost? Is $1,800 reasonable?


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## FurstPlaceMiniatures (Mar 20, 2015)

Define 'shown.' Local 4h? Local fairs? Breed (AMHA/AMHR/PtHA) shows? World shows or congress? And the first question I would ask is why that child isn't showing her anymore! Just because the mini was shown by a kid doesn't mean it went well.


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## Tess (Mar 20, 2015)

AMHA and AMHR shows.


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## Minimor (Mar 20, 2015)

I would say $1800 is high; I would expect very good quality for that price. So, depends what the mare is like. Very competitive when shown, or just shown with little hope of placing? If you want just a pet then you do not need great show quality, though good sound conformation is good to have. I would think you would be able to get your ideal horse for your original price of $1000, unless prices there are extra high.


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## Tess (Mar 21, 2015)

Hi,

If someone was moving to less property and had to sell most of their horses would they lower the price of one of their horses to sell it quicker if they really wanted to move soon?

I plan on trying to lower the price to at least $1,500 because I do not plan on showing or breeding. If they wanted to sell quickly I might get an even lower price.

Thanks,

Tess


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## chandab (Mar 21, 2015)

Meet the horse, if you can, before making an offer; but yes, it's quite possible that they would lower the price if they are moving and want to find a good home in a timely manner. I don't think it's unreasonable to offer 20% less than the asking price; so in the case of an $1800 horse, that would be an offer of $1440 (so perhaps a starting offer of $1400). Others on the group that have purchased and sold more than I have would be able to tell you if that is reasonable.


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## Kim P (Mar 22, 2015)

We were only looking for a pet and paid $250.00 for our Patty and he (gave) us the other two little stallions. He should have given us all of them.


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## Max's Mom (Mar 22, 2015)

The prices will probably be going up now as it is spring, but honestly for a pet mini I think that you could find a nice, calm, pet quality one for a lot less. Their price might be quite reasonable for what is being offered, though. Obviously the price will reflect factors like their success in showing, their level of training, whether they are a good breeding animal, etc. If you don't care about breeding or showing, you may not want to "pay extra" for these things.

Another thing to consider is that many people are careful not to price their horses too low because they want to screen out killer buyers and people who haven't given adequate thought to what they are about to undertake. If you care about your horse, you don't want someone reading the ad and thinking "hey, this one is only $250, so if it doesn't work out, no big deal, and I can just sell it at the auction..." You might find that once you meet the horse and talk with the owner that if you can show that you are a responsible person offering a lifetime home, they might be willing to let the horse go for a lot less than the asking price.


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## Tess (Mar 23, 2015)

Hi,

I need help finding a vet and farrier could you help? As I said before I live in Spokane, Washington. I have been emailing back and forth with the seller of the horse I described. The horse's name is Feona. The seller also has a gelding named Dolphin for sale. I think I like them. She said she would be able to deliver them to us on April 25, 2015. I need to find a vet and farrier soon.

There is a horse training facility nearby should I ask them what vet/farrier they use?

Thanks,

Tess


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## chandab (Mar 23, 2015)

It wouldn't hurt to talk to the training facility near you and see who they use. Be sure to ask the farrier if they are willing to work on minis, some won't cause they don't want to bend over that far to work on them; if not, see if they'll recommend someone that does work on minis. Don't take it personally if the people at the training facility aren't impressed with minis, some just don't get it.


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## Tess (Mar 23, 2015)

Okay Thanks


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## Tess (Mar 23, 2015)

Hi,

Do I need a bridle? I only plan on walking/running with it every day or so. I thought I could just use a halter. If I don't need a bridle what do people use them for?

Thanks,

Tess


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## chandab (Mar 23, 2015)

No bridle necessary, except when driving (or riding, if the kid is small enough, and horse trained well enough).

Halter is fine for all work on the ground.


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## Tess (Mar 23, 2015)

Okay


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## Tess (Mar 23, 2015)

Hi,

I have a Great Pyrenees dog. She is not able to get at the mini's pen. She barks all the time unless I am outside. She barks at night before I go to bed. Will the barking scare the minis?

Thanks,

Tess


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## Ryan Johnson (Mar 23, 2015)

Good question Tess, I have a boxer so I always ask when looking at a horse or mini that they are ok with dogs. She can never get into one of the paddocks where the horses live , but she does bark so I like to ask cause you never know if a mini you are planning to buy has had a bad experience with a dog at some stage, so always good to ask ........................

All my horses are fine with barking


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## AngC (Mar 24, 2015)

All of ours are fascinated by dogs.

One neighbor has a great dane; we brought it in with Nicky on a leash, which was great fun because the dog is taller than Nicky. And it's white/black spotted just like Nicky. Ole Grandpa (Nicky) had a look-see, they sniffed noses and that was it. Nicky lost interest within a couple minutes.


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## FurstPlaceMiniatures (Mar 24, 2015)

My stud will "eat" dogs even bigger than he is. Is one of the few ways he is 'studdy.' I also had a big mare that was downright dangerous (if you were a dog!) she killed a coyote, seriously hurt a neighbors dog that tried chasing the herd (which was good, because he never tried it again) and on a trail ride when a pit bull attacked is she grabbed it by the face with her teeth and literally threw it. She meant business.

I've noticed in my experience anyway, dominant horses tend to be dog eaters. I wouldn't worry much about a mini doing a ton of damage to a great pyr, but I wouldn't worry about the dog scaring them.


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## paintponylvr (Mar 24, 2015)

I, too, have several that will "eat" dogs. The first was our first, he was a stallion and since there were both roaming dogs and coyotes around - I didn't mind. Our personal dogs stayed away from him and his "girls".

I don't mind barking dogs as I like mine to get used to them - regardless of how they feel about them. Even the ones who will protect the rest of the ponies/minis in the pasture will accept dogs on a one to one basis when I say it's necessary.

I neither want my ponies to run from a dog nor chase a dog if I am leading them out or going for a run or a drive with them.


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## 7fluffyfriends (Mar 25, 2015)

We have two older Border Collies - the BC's work on the farm and sometimes just for fun - theirs - they will scoot in the pony paddock if they think we are not looking - the ponies ignore them - even when they let out a bark or two to stir things up.

We had a mix breed, Bailey, that we sadly lost this year and she had a really big bark, but even that never disturbed the ponies. The noise is good for them, I think. Dogs, tractors, snowmobiles, ATV's what have you - just not all at once! The only thing that spooked our herd, including the cattle, was a hang glider flying just above the treetops - that was pandemonium. Fortunately there were no lasting injuries, though we were very fortunate. That is a pretty freakish thing though - thank heavens!

These little guys are quick learners and can become very sophisticated at distinguishing 'social' noise from the important stuff.....ie: grain slithering into a small plastic container


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## Tess (Mar 25, 2015)

Okay, I don't really like the thought of a horse eating a dog.





I found not only Feona but also a gelding named Dolphin from the same seller. The gelding is super calm. He has never been bred or shown. To give you an idea of how calm he is, he has worked with autistic children before. I have been talking and talking with the seller. I think that these two horses are the ones I am going to buy!



The seller said that she can bring them on the 25th of April. She said we have to have a deposit in before that. I asked the seller about the barking and she said that they are fine with barking. Feona and Dolphin come with halters and lead ropes. Oh, one more thing about Feona she jumps! If any of you would like to watch a video of her jumping it is here- http://youtu.be/aXl81DlKX8U. I will keep you all updated.





Thanks,

Tess


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## Ryan Johnson (Mar 25, 2015)

He sounds more than perfect Tess



Don't forget if you are keen to buy both from the same stable ask if they will do a package deal for you, there is no harm in asking.





You know we will hold you to pictures once they arrive if you do decide to purchase them


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## Tess (Mar 25, 2015)

Yes, I did ask about the package deal.

Of coarse, I will be more than glad to show you some pictures once I buy them!


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## Tess (Mar 26, 2015)

Hi,

We will decide if we want them this weekend. I cannot show any pics until April 25. If we buy them I will let you know what I am going to name them on the 25. I am so excited about the minis.

Thanks,

Tess


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## Tess (Mar 26, 2015)

Hi,

If I feed 1 flake of hay per day per horse how many square bales do I need a month? I was thinking around 4-5 bales. Is that correct?

Thanks,

Tess


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## chandab (Mar 26, 2015)

Really should feed by weight. How big are the minis that you are looking to get? Hay should be fed at a rate of 1.5-2% of the horse's bodyweight per day (up or down a little depending on if you feed bagged feed or not, and what type of hay). So, if the minis weigh 250#, that would be 3.75# to 5# daily.

I have mostly B-size minis, and 13 of them, plus a mini jenny, so I go through 1.5 bales a day for all. I have one mini mare, the mini jenny and a stallion in one barn, they go through about 1.5 bales per week; the stallion doesn't eat much hay, so it's mostly for the mare and jenny. [My bales are 65-75# bales, and the mare and jenny are two of my smallest at about 32" and the mare is around 300#, the jenny lighter (the stallion is my smallest at 31" and only 175#).]


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## Tess (Mar 27, 2015)

Hi,

I asked the seller what she feeds them. She said she feeds 1 flake of hay per day per horse.

Thanks,

Tess


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## Minimor (Mar 27, 2015)

You will need to find out what weight her bales are and approximately what one flake weighs. Bales vary greatly in size and weight

And so do the individual flakes. My smallest mini would starve on one flake per day of most of my small square bales.

Generally I feed two flakes twice a day per horse--3 flakes if They are small/light.


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## Tess (Mar 27, 2015)

They are both small about 30" tall.


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## Max's Mom (Mar 27, 2015)

Being part of this forum has taught me a lot of things, and one thing is that hay bales are completely different sizes all over the country, and the hay is different, too! In my area, most bales are only in the 35-40 pound range, so obviously it requires more of these bales than it would if you had the bigger bales that seem to be more common in other parts of the country. So, like people have already said, weighing the flake or flakes is a very good idea as you start out. The other thing to know is that depending on the way you feed them, you might find that they waste hay, so that if you give them 2% of their body weight in hay, they might not be eating that much if a lot is being stamped into the ground and peed on. Hay (forage) is the basis of the diet, so it is really important to give them enough.


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## Tess (Mar 27, 2015)

The shed I talked about near the beginning of this topic is where I am going to put the hay. So is a good size flake about 5lbs?


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## chandab (Mar 27, 2015)

Sorry, but it still depends on the bale. Those light weight bales Max's Mom talked about might have 2# flakes in them, heavier bales are going to have heavier flakes. You can get a good estimation of flake weight by weighing a bale, counting the number of flakes in the bale and doing the math. [40# bale with say 10 flakes, would mean the flakes are 4# each.]


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## Tess (Mar 27, 2015)

Hi,

What are some fun things to do with a mini? What are some good jumps? I do not have any official jumps.

Thanks,

Tess


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## paintponylvr (Mar 28, 2015)

Fun things with minis -

Our daughters grew up with 2 mini sized shetlands (35 - 37" @ the withers so would have been smaller measured the way minis are measured). Here are some of our pics thru the years - sharing with family and friends














Who needs a real jump?






turning the manure into compost






taking a nap


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## paintponylvr (Mar 28, 2015)

That first foal (1st pic above) - Stuffy is still with us and in 2013 - the cycle was repeated!

Here is a pic of Stuffy with her 4th foal and our granddaughters -









This colt, Rio, is now 2yrs old and has just been castrated. After having his first teeth float and 2 wolf teeth extracted in April, he will be started in harness single w/ the goal of driving with his brother, Cupid, as a pair. Cupid is helping with yard work below.






Giving rides at the Assisted Living home for Veterans that my dad live in - (this is Bell & Bit - pulling a Pioneer wagon in TX in 2012)






Giving rides to a neighbor's special needs daughter (this is Stuffy again - in 2010).






Stuffy is currently out on lease to a family whose granddaughter is spending time with her. When I take another mini/pony down to them tomorrow, we will be measuring Stuffy for a harness so that we can order a new one and get the folks leasing her started in driving.

just spending time with your mini -


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## 7fluffyfriends (Mar 28, 2015)

Paintponylvr says it all and I'm just chiming in to second everything she shared!

Local parades, school / assisted living visits, walking through your property/neighborhood, local fun shows, more formal shows as the desire and availability hit you, leaning on a fence and just watching them enjoy life, brushing them, sharing them with your kids/grandkids/neighbors kids. Driving, hiking, hugging





Someplace I read a quote about a gentleman who purchased a donkey. Asked what he was going to do with the donkey... he was going to just enjoy having coffee and visiting everyday. I loved that - wish I could remember who had that site!


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## Tess (Mar 29, 2015)

Hi,

Those are great ideas. Okay, just put a deposit in for the two minis. So exciting! She is going to deliver them to us on April 25. I will give you all pictures on then. Do any of you paint on your horses? Could you show some pics?

Thank you so much MiniNHF! I would have never found the two minis if it weren't for the link you sent!

Thanks,

Tess


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## Tess (Mar 29, 2015)

If anyone on this forum is looking for a nice driving gelding there is one named Electrify on minihorsesales.com. Electrify is from the same seller as Feona and Dolphin.


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## Minimor (Mar 29, 2015)

Paint on your horses? No--I would say not. Why would you want to? Only time I can think that people do is for showing in a costume class.


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## Tess (Mar 29, 2015)

I did it once in a summer camp.

It's something to do for fun!


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## 7fluffyfriends (Mar 29, 2015)

Our granddaughters loved washing and 'buffing up' the minis when we went someplace but we never used paint.

A little glitter once for a parade along with ribbons in the mane.

When they did costume they enjoyed dressing up the mini and themselves but we never used paint.


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## Tess (Mar 29, 2015)

It's horse safe paint. Not normal paint.

I bought it at my local farm store.


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## Tess (Mar 29, 2015)

Do you do anything for your horses in summer? It gets up to 98F sometimes. Should I put a fan in the shed?


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## Kim P (Mar 29, 2015)

I put a fan under our little lean to for mine. It helps keep the flies away some. Especially when it is really hot.


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## paintponylvr (Mar 29, 2015)

It sometimes gets hotter than 98* here w/ up to 100% humidity. Ours live out - with shelter in the trees or in temporary shade shelters. So while caught and eating, we've often either hauled a hose out with us and sprayed them off (have to be trained/accustomed to the sprayer) or hauled out buckets of water to sponge them off.

We also feed wet/soupy and sometimes add loose mineral salt to keep them drinking. I have taken trays of icecubes out to add to thier feed in the summer and bottles & buckets of boiled water that is then added to their feed - they LOVE their hot "mash" during the winter and will call for it daily!


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## Erickson Miniature Horses (Mar 29, 2015)

I know the conversation has kind of gotten away from the original questions, but here are the answers to some of your first questions.

I write a blog about miniature horses and talk about training, grooming, massaging, braiding, and natural remedies. You should give it a look, maybe you'll find something that will help you? I just started blogging a few months ago so I don't have many posts. I’m waiting for it to warm up, so I can get outside to take some pictures for it. Here’s the link for it https://ericksonminiatures.wordpress.com.

I've found that most minis really enjoy doing tricks and learn them pretty fast. I've trained mine to bow, kneel, lay down, sit, and stand on a pedestal. The time it takes to teach a horse a trick varies from horse to horse.

My all time favorite shampoo is Cowboy Magic! I've tried lots of different shampoos and conditioners, but none of them have preformed like Cowboy Magic. I have the Rosewater Shampoo, Conditioner, Detangler & Shine, Super body shine, Green Spot Remover, and Yellow Spot Remover. I highly recommend these products, they are wonderful! The detangler is amazing and will get out any knot, no matter what and keep knots away for weeks!

I think that braiding is one of my favorite things to do with my horses! There are dozens of braids you can do with your horses, on their mane, tail, and forelock. I find it very relaxing and meditative to braid my horse's hair. If you use braiding bands or yarn on your braids they should stay in a couple of days, of course their are some braids you wouldn't want to leave in over night.

I only use a bridle when I’m training them to drive or they have their saddle on, other wise it isn't really necessary to use it for anything else.

For Jumping I just use some cones or barrels for standards with pvc pipes or wooden poles. You don't need any “official” jumps, you can pretty much jump them over anything that is safe and collapsable.

There are lots of things you can do with minis! Just to name a few minis can jump, lunge, pull a cart, wear a saddle, long line, do tricks, do dressage on long lines, do agility and go to nursing homes and hospitals.

You can also do many natural therapies with horses such as massage, acupressure, stretching, aromatherapy, herbal therapy, and chromotherapy. I will also be writing more on my blog about each of these therapies and how to preform them on your horse.

I also love to paint on my horses, and they love it too, because I’m sure that it probably feels like a massage! I don't use any special equine paint I just use plain old cheap sidewalk chalk. I soak them in water for a few minutes before I use them. The paint comes out in the rain or when you give them a bath.


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## Tess (Mar 29, 2015)

Hi,

How do teach them to lie down?

Thanks,

Tess


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## Erickson Miniature Horses (Mar 29, 2015)

The best way to teach a horse to lie down is to have him kneel or bow first. Then you can get him to go all the way down from there.

Hold a treat, such as a carrot, down between his front legs so he will have to reach down to get it. Do this two or three times every day. After a while start moving the carrot further and further back under his stomach until he has to go down on one or both knees to get it. That's how you teach him to kneel or bow. After he's learned that, you can use a treat to have him bend his head around to one side while he's kneeling or bowing. Then you can place a hand on his hip and gently push into a rocking motion. This should cause him to lose his balance and fall all the way down.


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## Dianne Lyn (Apr 12, 2015)

I just had to throw my two cents in here. Lol

As for your shed, I personally would remove the floor. The plywood will not hold up to the urine and will eventually rot. The horse could put a foot or two thru it and you could have a seriously injured horse... or two.

Have great fun with your new equine friends


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## Tess (Apr 15, 2015)

Hi,

The two mini's are coming on April 25th. Only 10 days! I will post pictures of them and of the pen they are staying in after they get here. They are both 30" tall. I am going to rename them. Their names now are Feona and Dolphin. I want to name them Lily and Pippin.

Thank you all for the wonderful advice and answers.

Thanks,

Tess

P.S. Please let me know if you like the new names, if you don't like the names please post what you would name them.


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## Silver City Heritage Farmstead (Apr 15, 2015)

Hi Tess,

Glad to see your keeping a countdown, kinda like we do on the marestare forum. Of course YOUR due date is guaranteed! LOL

Are you close enough to go handle your new babies--with the breeder to help and mentor? I hope so, that will make it easier on all of you. Plus, you'd be more familiar with what's normal for them, then it would be easier to recognize if they're "off" when you get them home.

We'll wait excitedly with you for Pippen and Lily to arrive! Of course, piccies are a MUST.


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## Ryan Johnson (Apr 15, 2015)

Hey Tess,

Not long now till they arrive, I am sure you must be getting excited. Love the names and cant wait to see some Pictures. A big welcome to the world of Minis, and wishing you many years of happiness with them.

Ryan


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## Tess (Apr 16, 2015)

Thanks!


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## Tess (Apr 16, 2015)

Hi,

How fast do minis shed out. Could they finish shedding in 10 days?

Thanks,

Tess


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## FurstPlaceMiniatures (Apr 16, 2015)

I would bet not!

It depends on the horse, weather, and volume of hair. My stud would take MONTHS if left to his own devices - but he drives me so nuts with his itching I clip him as soon as nights are reliably in the 30s and blanket him. He is awful though - rolls and scrapes his body against anything he can find incessantly as soon as he beings to shed until I clip him.


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## Tess (Apr 17, 2015)

Hi,

Is this a nice dewormer? http://www.amazon.com/Ivermectin-Paste-Dewormer-6-08g-1-87/dp/B000HHLWPI

How much would I give and how often?

Thanks,

Tess


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## chandab (Apr 17, 2015)

Yes, that's a suitable dewormer for minis. The tube will be marked for dosage by weight. I'd discuss frequency of deworming in your area with your vet; but typical schedule is every 2 months.


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## Tess (Apr 17, 2015)

Okay, Thank you.


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## Tess (Apr 18, 2015)

Hi,

Only 7 days left! I will try to take the best pictures. I will post the pictures here on this topic a few days after they get here. I want to wash them and make them clean for the pictures. I need to find a nice corn, oats, barley mix. Does anyone know of a nice brand? I would like to buy online if possible.

Thanks.

Tess


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## chandab (Apr 18, 2015)

Skip the corn, it's not the best choice for horses. Feed is very expensive to ship, since it comes in 40-50# bags, you'll be better off finding it locally.

How old are the minis you are bringing home? do you know what they are eating now? [if it's working, you could look into keeping them on the same feed or similar feed (you might have to change brands).]


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## paintponylvr (Apr 18, 2015)

How far away are you from the breeder they are coming from? How much feed is she/he providing you with to switch over - since it sounds like you are changing them to a different feed? Feed stores are usually where you would purchase feed. Where are you getting your hay from?

It's always exciting to get a new horse. Can't wait to see your pics of your new ones.

As to how often for that type of wormer - check with a vet in your area or with the vet hospital in your state. They would be more apt to give you the right time frame for each type of wormer and the amounts each horse should receive.

You might want to look into doing some of the "specials" with different companies. I get email from Valley Vet. Several times a year, I can order Ivermectin (drug name) wormer for just $1.99/tube. I also get both sale emails (coupons) and sale catalogs from Dover Saddlery. They also sell ivermectin several times a year for $1.99/tube. I usually don't have shipping charge with Valley Vet, but do with Dover... I purchase Panacur or Safeguard (drug name - _Fenbendazole_) & Strongid (drug name - Pyrantel Pamoate) in liquid forms and Anthelcide (drug name - Oxibendazole) in paste form for worming. In the past, we've used Ivermectin 3x yr; double dose of Stongid 2x yr; Panacur for the 1st worming on babies and as a double dose 5-day "power pac" if necessary; and Anthelcide 1x year.

I don't give Quest (drug name - Moxidectin) nor wormer products with Praziquantel (though that is what I've been told I can/should switch to now. It's usually sold w/ Ivermectin now).


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## AnnaC (Apr 19, 2015)

I agree with the above. You need to find out what they have been eating - hopefully the folk you are gettig them from will offer you some of their present food so that any change over can be done gradually. Also ask when they were last wormed and what was used (they may have been wormed just days before they come to you).

Regarding food, you need to get a bag of normal horse and pony cubes/pellets to start off with - not a good idea to go with a mixed corn feed - with your grass and/or hay providing the essential fibre. And dont forget a salt block and a good quality mineral/vitamin lick/additive.

Also I would not worry about getting them clean for the pictures - we dont mind and anyway they will probably be a bit nevous/on edge having come to a new home and to give them a couple of weeks to get settled in and used to your routine would be good before you start doing 'extras' to them. Do you know if they have ever been bathed? If not it is something you will need to introduce them to slowly when they are settled and relaxed not as soon as they arrive.

Good luck - cant wait to see the pictures.


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## Minimor (Apr 19, 2015)

Ask at your local feed store what they have available. My feed mill sells a nice mix known as 60-30-10 - oats/barley/corn - the horses love it and do well on it. I used to always use oats, but the horses actually prefer the 60-30-10. I'm not big on pelleted feed and use it only for horses that need extra weight or sometimes for nursing mares/foals.

You will not want to buy feed on line & have to pay to have it shipped to you. That will be much too expensive.


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## Tess (Apr 19, 2015)

Hi,

According to the seller she feeds them one flake of hay once at night and once in the morning and in winter months she includes a 1/4 cup of the corn, oats, barley mix more as a treat than feed.

AnnaC- about washing them I will take your advice and not wash them for the pictures. I will check some other stores for the mix but the farm store I went to did not have it. Yes, they will be dewormed tomorrow. The seller just said ivermectin paste. I have a salt block but I do not have a mineral block. I will try to find one.

chandab- the two minis are 10 and 13.

paintponylvr- I am about 7 and 1/2 hrs away to drive. I am not changing the feed but I might have to change the brand. I will check with the vet about how often for the dewormer. That's a great idea. I do get catalogs from Dover Saddlery. I will check if they have any specials.

Minimor- We do have a store here called feed and farm supply I will check what they have for the mix. I will look if they have 60-30-10.

Thanks,

Tess


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## chandab (Apr 19, 2015)

At 10 and 13 years, they don't likely have any special dietary needs like growth or senior feeds, and if she is just giving them a handful in the winter of grain, you might not need any grain at all; but rather just a vit/min supplement like Sho Glo from MannaPro (just one scoop daily for minis, scoop included in bag - I have two on this, my mini jenny donkey and the mare she shares a paddock with).


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## AngC (Apr 20, 2015)

I'm not sure why you've decided on a "_a nice corn, oats, barley mix_" ?

Corn is for pigs, oats are for oatmeal, and barley is for beer. ...that's just my opinion.

I spent a lot of time researching horse food. Much of what people feed I don't understand. I can understand if someone does not have access to a particular food item, but ... I especially don't understand why someone in Eastern WA would contemplate feeding bagged feed ...doesn't seem cost-effective when you're living smack dab in the middle of a decent hay-producing area---head east to Idaho or west to the WA hay belt??? Hopefully you get horses that aren't prone to fat and regulate their eating habits. I have one of those.... but even he wouldn't be able to survive on bagged food. Worst case is that you end up with one that's prone to fat. It's heart-breaking and a fair amount of labor keeping them lean.

Regarding ivermectin...
I've been doing fecal counts and going with vet recommendations. Ivermectin was the last thing recommended for Nicky (a heavy shedder) They started us with the fenbendazole type products. That said the best thing I've accomplished for internal parasite is picking up the poop, every single, stinking day; even when I felt lazy. I took poop samples in for fecal counts at the beginning of this month and not one of our 3 needed a dewormer.


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## Minimor (Apr 20, 2015)

Have to disagree with you AngC. Oats is a very fine horse feed; so is barley as a matter of fact. Want to keep your horses from gaining too much weight? Oats can help with that. I haven't had one get fat on oats--that's why if I have one that needs weight I add pelleted feed. If I want one to drop weight--increase oats and then give more exercise. Works very nicely. Been feeding oats to horses for my lifetime with horses. The 6o-30-10 is quite new for me but I am liking the results from it--it is a very good substitute for plain oats.


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## Tess (Apr 20, 2015)

Hi,

Only 5 days until they come!

Thanks,

Tess


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## Tess (Apr 20, 2015)

Hi,

The seller wrote and said she is coming on the 24th. She had to change the date because of the results for the coggins tests. So only 4 days not 5.

Thanks,

Tess


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## Tess (Apr 21, 2015)

Only 3 days!


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## AngC (Apr 22, 2015)

> Have to disagree with you AngC. Oats is a very fine horse feed; so is barley as a matter of fact. Want to keep your horses from gaining too much weight? Oats can help with that. I haven't had one get fat on oats--that's why if I have one that needs weight I add pelleted feed. If I want one to drop weight--increase oats and then give more exercise. Works very nicely. Been feeding oats to horses for my lifetime with horses. The 6o-30-10 is quite new for me but I am liking the results from it--it is a very good substitute for plain oats.


geez, the quote thingie on this forum kicks my butt. I was trying to quote Minimor

I've been watching some of these "what to feed" threads for awhile. And I think they're difficult to treat with a blanket statement, like for example: oats/barley/grains are good. So I would like to disagree with you Minimor.

Frequently, the person asking the initial question provides too few details. I've been tinkering with our feeding regime. And I've tried not to be an old fuddy-duddy, but I keep thinking back to how my parents fed horses. Horses got grass and in the winter in Montana they got grass hay. The only horses that received grain of any kind were animals under work--hard work. I'd estimate that, for example, one of the roping horses that performed 4-6 hours/day would be fed grain. ...But not the kind of grain I've seen which is coated with molasses. ...it was dry and looked like that steel-cut Quaker Oats cereal. And the grain may have been barley---not sure, but again it did NOT have that molasses, sugar coating I've seen on bagged feed labeled for horses.

I *KNOW* that Coco, our mare, started getting fat when one vet told me to feed that bagged, molasses-coated, mess of oats/grains/corn to Coco when she was pregnant with Baby. It has taken me about 2 years to get the excess weight off Coco. I am just thankful that we didn't have laminitis with Coco, like we did with Baby. (Coco really was the more likely candidate for laminitis because of her weight with me being a dumb-butt and feeding her that stuff.) I believe we have Baby at a decent weight; she looks slick. And Coco is looking pretty good. I am just *really not* convinced that feeding grain-type products to mini horses is a good idea. ...unless they're getting hard exercise.

I didn't mean to hi-jack the OP's thread.


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## AnnaC (Apr 22, 2015)

I tend to agree with you - back in the dim past we also fed straight oats to horses in work, occasionally with a little barley added or a sprinkle of crunchy salt, but never corn. My main concern is that to feed an oat diet to horses and to get it 'correct', needs experience which a novice/first time owner may not have, plus they will have a whole bag of the 'mixture' suggested to get through if they are not going to waste it. It is possible that the OP's two new minis may prove to have different needs, food wise, and therefore a small amount of their present feed being sent down from the seller (to make the change over easier) plus a bag of good quality basic horse feed would be the sensible way to go at the start.


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## Minimor (Apr 22, 2015)

Some minis need a surprising amount of feed to stay in nice shape. Some of mone are in hay only with just the ocassional 2 or 3 handfula of oats as a treat. Some get 2 lbs of oats per day and some get 1 pouND per day. Just depends on what they need. I would not say they all need two pounds per day but likewise you really should not say that minis should never have oats. The blanket statement that oats is bad for horses is also not true.

Given the small amount Tess said these horses are getting. ...a 1/4 cup?...that isn't even a TASTE. In that quantity she isn't going to do them harm regardless of what grain product she buys.

Some minis need a surprising amount of feed to stay in nice shape. Some of mone are in hay only with just the ocassional 2 or 3 handfula of oats as a treat. Some get 2 lbs of oats per day and some get 1 pouND per day. Just depends on what they need. I would not say they all need two pounds let day but likewise you really should not say that minis should never have oats. The blanket statement that oats is bad for horses is also not true.

Given the small amount Tess said these horses are getting. ...a 1/4 cup?...that isn't even a TASTE. In that quantity she isn't going to do them harm regardless of what grain product she buys.

Some minis need a surprising amount of feed to stay in nice shape. Some of mone are in hay only with just the ocassional 2 or 3 handfula of oats as a treat. Some get 2 lbs of oats per day and some get 1 pouND per day. Just depends on what they need. I would not say they all need two pounds let day but likewise you really should not say that minis should never have oats. The blanket statement that oats is bad for horses is also not true.

Given the small amount Tess said these horses are getting. ...a 1/4 cup?...that isn't even a TASTE. In that quantity she isn't going to do them harm regardless of what grain product she buys.


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## Tess (Apr 23, 2015)

Hi,

Okay, the minis are coming tomorrow around 4:30p.m. According to the seller they started shedding on April 16. Does that mean that they still will be fluffy?

Thanks,

Tess


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## chandab (Apr 23, 2015)

Yes, they are likely still fluffy. Give them a few days to settle in, then start grooming them, it's a good way to get to know them and bond with them.


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## Tess (Apr 24, 2015)

It's today! I will post pictures on here tomorrow.


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## paintponylvr (Apr 25, 2015)

looking forward to seeing your new horses!!

Almost laughed 'till I cried when you asked if they would still be "fluffy" - when they started shedding on April 16th. If they truly only started shedding - even groomed daily - they will take a while (up to 3 months) to shed completely...

Mine started shedding LONG before that and we still have "oodles & gobs" of hair to go before they are slicked out. Some have more hair than others!! And a couple aren't turning loose of their hair at all. It does make a difference w/ daily grooming - which I don't do. I did groom 8 ponies today - coming out manes and forelocks & using a metal comb to pull the loose/long hair off their bodies (no metal on legs & on a couple not on their bellies either - farrier doesn't appreciate them jumping on top of her when she's doing hooves, LOL)... I took lots of pics today w/ my new phone, but can't seem to get them emailed to myself so that I can do the adjustments I like to do (cropping/text) and then load them into my galleries of photo albums on line. hmmmm....

****

AngC - I MISS the way we fed in MT!!!! We fed COBB (corn, oats, barley, bran) to our horses and when I was last "up there" in 2003 (hmm that was now 12 yrs ago) - a 50 lb bag was still only $3 (mom no longer has horses - she didn't know what it costs now when I asked). No molasses - and a single 50 lb bag lasted a VERY LONG time w/ the ponies because of the hay (alfalfa/meadow grass) and pasture (CRP/plains grass) we had that we simply don't seem to have down here in NC in this sand. What I wouldn't give for some of that pasture/hay right now!!

And one of my hay suppliers here just informed me it will be a lot longer for hay to be cut. With the dip down in temps - coastal hay quits growing. Told me it would probably be the end of June.




Here I was expecting hay to be cut NOW... I did get some Italian Rye grass hay. Smells wonderful - looks pretty. Have no idea if they will like it or if they will do well on it (they have done well on Rye - in the pasture in the fall. Other than what may have been mixed in, I've never fed baled Rye before) and found out the bales were rolled too loose. I couldn't get them out of the trailer by myself tonight - have to have a bunch of "kids" that can climb over the bales and push from inside the trailer come help so we can get these to the ponies... Hope two rounds will last the boys for 2 weeks. The girls' - both pastures - will have to make due w/ 1 each for now - but both pastures still have some hay (not much).


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## Tess (Apr 25, 2015)

Hi,

They're here! It's 9:30p.m. I will take pictures in the morning. They're so pretty!

A big thank you to everyone on this topic!

Thanks,

Tess


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## Kim P (Apr 25, 2015)

Excited to see pics!


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## Tess (Apr 25, 2015)

Here is Lily!


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## Tess (Apr 25, 2015)

Here is Pippin!


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## chandab (Apr 25, 2015)

Congrats! Very cute.


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## Minimor (Apr 25, 2015)

Congrats! They look like a nice pair!


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## Tess (Apr 25, 2015)

I thank you all! If it wasn't for you I probably would have never bought them. A very very very big thank you to everyone!

I jumped a little with Lily today!


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## Debby - LB (Apr 26, 2015)

oooh congratulations!! They are beautiful!!


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## Ryan Johnson (Apr 26, 2015)

Congratulations they are both adorable. Wishing you many years of happiness with them Tess.


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## Kim P (Apr 26, 2015)

So happy for you. They are adorable. You are locked in love now!


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## paintponylvr (Apr 27, 2015)

They are beautiful!

and now your life changes (for the better!)...


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## Tess (Apr 28, 2015)

Thank you all! They are very pretty! I have been walking both of them every day. I even did a little jumping with Lily. I washed her too. I didn't have enough time to wash them both. I groomed both of them though. Two days ago I saw them laying down at the same time.


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## paintponylvr (Apr 29, 2015)

Be prepared! When mine lay down together, I'd have neighbors stopping in our driveway saying we had a bunch of "dead ponies" in the pasture... It was hilarious!


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