# Helpful Hints for foaling season....



## MeadowRidge Farm

With all the newbies that are now on the forum, I thought it might be a good idea to start a thread on some helpful hints, or just some good advice, for the upcoming foaling season....this is kind of going off the foaling kit post. I'll start with ...towels, I never use a towel which has been dried with a scented dryer sheet to dry foals off, alot of times this will leave a "scented" odor on the foal and the mare might reject it after it is dried. So use clean towels,(not dryer scented) and if the mare does not want to accept the foal after drying it...rub your hand in the plecenta and then rub it onto the foals back, the mare will usually accept the foal again. Corinne


----------



## Southern_Heart

*Read everything you can about foaling. Then read it all again. Then read it again right before the mare foals so its fresh in your mind. Pay close attention to details.*

Listen to people that have foaled out mares before and their stories.

Most of all don't panic as the mare is counting on you.

Joyce

Forgot to add that if your mare is still in her winter woolies, its best to shave her belly and down a bit on the legs so the foal won't have so much trouble finding the teats among all that hair.


----------



## Marnie

Never use a blanket on the foal that's been used on another foal without washing it first. I had a friend who did this and the mare about killed the foal before she could get the blanket off, it must have smelled like the other foal and the mare hated it. I also rub the blanket on the mare, then just lay it on the foal until I'm sure the mare will accept it on her baby, before I close the velcro. Good thread!


----------



## Joyce

The Complete Book of Foaling should be in everyone's hands and re-read it every year before foaling season as a reminder of the important things.

Most of all, watch your mare, be with her for delivery, and watch mare and foal even after birth.

A monitor and a Breeder Alert or a device similar are your best tools for helping. Be alert and ready for everything that comes your way. Vet's number handy and a way of transporting the mare or mare and foal if there are problems.

Well stocked foaling kit and enjoy the birth. :saludando:


----------



## MiLo Minis

I foal mine out in the barn under a heat lamp and don't towel dry the babies so I don't have to worry about changing the scent at all. Handling the foal as little as possible until the mare has had a chance to check it out is the best way to go without risking her rejecting it. Something for a new to foaling person to realize is that it usually happens fairly quickly and if it isn't there is usually something wrong. Something else to think about is that if you hover and keep checking on the mare repeatedly she will likely hang onto the foal and wait till you leave to go down. That is why cameras are so great - you can keep a watch on the mare without disturbing her and maybe preventing her from foaling. Once she is down and the foal is on its way you can then slip down to the barn and be there. It is really important to treat the navel against infection once the cord breaks - check with your vet for what he recommends and have it on hand. I put it in a shot glass and press it up against the belly to make sure it is well dunked!


----------



## Miniv

Great Thread and Great Advice posted above!

Here's more --

When your mare is showing all the "signs" according to the books (and/or videos) let your vet know you have a miniature horse getting close, just to give him/her a heads up. And keep the vet's number handy in the barn.

One of the things I store along with clean towels (which I NEVER dry with dryer sheets!




: ) is an old but clean BED SHEET. As long as the mare gives me enough warning on camera, I am right there tucking that sheet under her hind-end for the foal to land on. A lot of liquid is soaked up by the sheet and once the navel is doused, I quickly move the baby onto a bed of dry grass hay bedding and pull the messy sheet OUT.

Oh, and I use soft GRASS HAY for bedding in the foaling stall....not straw. We used to use straw until we had a colt have an eye injured on a sharp piece of straw bedding. Fortunately he wasn't seriously injured, but it was enough of a warning.

MA


----------



## luvmycritters

[SIZE=10pt]Exelent thread  Corinne! I'll be copying and pasting away!!



: :aktion033: :saludando: Lori[/SIZE]


----------



## Robin1

I keep a small layer of shavings/grindings on the stall floor for soaking up any fluids. After the foal has arrived I clean up the wet bedding and put down a thick layer of bermuda grass hay. It is very soft and won't hurt the foals eyes. If you are new and don't know what to look for, put the placenta in a plastic bag and keep in the fridge till the vet can check it out.

I use vet wrap to tie up the placenta if it starts to drag the ground.

Keep some bran on hand so you can make a nice warm bran mash for the mare. It will help with the cramping.

Talk to your vet about what shots he/she thinks you will need. If the mare is too uncomfortable I give her a shot of Banamine, but NOT until after she delivers the placenta. The foal gets Tetnus Antitoxin and some penicillin. Have plenty of Betadine to dip the foals stump in (I just squirt a lot on it).

Don't cut the cord for as long as possible so the foal can get as much of the blood as possible. When you tie the cord off use some cotton dental floss or cotton string.

Robin


----------



## rabbitsfizz

Have the Vets number on sped dial in the house and on your Cell- you will not be able to remember you own name in an emergency!!

When in doubt call the Vet.

If you _think_ there is something wrong, there probably is.

When it comes to foaling, there is no such thing as a "wasted Vets call"- if you _think_ he is needed, get him.

Or her



:


----------



## [email protected]

Great thread -

1. Really really know the structure of a horse - the anatomy. When you're elbow deep trying to reposition a body part it's good to know what the front and back should feel like (how they bend, etc.) or other parts.

2. Vaseline - it's a great lube for helping with foaling issues. We buy 6 or so at the dollar store, and use it for that foaling then throw it out as it will be contaminated. We learned this from the UCD repro team - I use to buy the KY type jelly - they use vaseline - it works much better. It's a mess to get off the foal after, but well worth it. We've delivered foals with a leg back by lubing them up really well!

3. We use Nolvason for dipping cords. (Ask your vet for dilution rate) We store it in a film canister, it's the right size and can be filled ahead of time and capped.

4. Check the placenta for tears/holes - if you aren't having the vet check it. I don't remember who told me this tip (probably on the Forum last year!) - but we fill ours with water - you can see the whole structure and check it for missing pieces. We don't weigh the placenta, but do check the cord and note any that are out of the ordinary - color, size, etc.

5. I don't routinely give an enema, but do keep a child size one cleaned out and ready to go (in a large ziplock bag), so it can be used if needed. We wait a couple hours to see if the meconium will pass on its on first.


----------



## Dona

Southern_Heart said:


> *Forgot to add that if your mare is still in her winter woolies, its best to shave her belly and down a bit on the legs so the foal won't have so much trouble finding the teats among all that hair.*
> 
> *
> *


* *

*
Another very important reason for shaving that long winter hair away from the mare's belly & rear leg area, is because the mares are usually shedding by the handfuls by the time they foal. Many foals will ingest so much of this hair while searching for the teats, that they will get hairballs in their little tummies & make them colic. There have even been foals who have died from this! I usually shave the entire belly, halfway up the sides, and rear legs on winter-coated mares. *



*:*


----------



## Kathy2m

Not a tip but a question...I have heard to dip the hooves in the iodine too, an old timer told me this, because the hooves are still very porous they can absorb bacteria? GREAT THREAD!!!!!!!!


----------



## kaykay

i do also dip the hooves. I figure it cant hurt and better safe then sorry. I also use nolvascan not iodine.

we did have a foal colic due to ingesting mothers hair and she was belly and side clipped. Now I clip much higher up!

Also always remember if you have to help pull a foal ONLY pull when the mare is contracting!!!

I think a good rule of thumb is if a mare is down and actively pushing for 10-15 mins and you dont see two legs and a muzzle CALL A VETERNARIAN as something is definately wrong


----------



## Viki

[SIZE=12pt]These tips may sound a little strange to you...but here goes!



: [/SIZE]

Be aware of you OWN health issues as well! I have asthma, so I have a spare inhaler in my foaling kit!

Long finger nails! Sorry, girls, IF you have long lovely finger nails, in foaling season, shorten them! You sure don't want to be going inside a mare (gloved or not) with long nails!

Viki


----------



## MeadowRidge Farm

YEs, infection can get in thur the hooves. I use spray iodine, and spray the hooves when I am spraying the cord. I dont think any of us who have foaled out mares can stress enough about the books BLESSED ARE THE BROODMARES and THE COMPLEST BOOK OF FOALING, and having the VETS PHONE nuber on speed dial.(altho, this doesnt always help in a remote area like where I live, and the vet can be 2 hours away, so we need to learn what to do in a emergency!) I also made a chart that hangs out in the barn, on poster paper, I wrote the most common foaling problems and what to do--copied out of Blessed are the Brood Mares, such as RED BAG, positions, etc. Corinne


----------



## EminentArabians

Great thread!

I agree, Blessed are The Broodmares is an EXCELLENT very informative book to have. I love the ideas of using the post its for important areas and labeling it and also the note board!

Another very important thing to remember is to have the foals IgG levels checked between 9 and 12 hours old.

If you can, have extra colostrum on hand.

MOST IMPORTANT: Make sure your vet has the equipment available to help you if your foals IgG levels are too low. I recently found out that there ISN'T a vet anywhere around me that has the equipment (closest is 2 hours away), and if they do have the equipment, they will not come out to where I live. Locating vets that can help you BEFORE you need them is best, that way you aren't calling every vet known in your area at a time when you do need them, it's far easier to know this information before hand (less stress!)



:

Keep your foaling kit filled up and make sure that anything isn't past its use by date. Call your vet to see what they recommend having on hand in your foaling kit.


----------



## Sue_C.

One of _the_ *most* important things to remember, is, _let nature take it's course_! Soooo many newbies will get worried, jump right in and start "helping" the mare..._not_ good... Watch from outside the stall, or far enough away that the mare has a chance to _get-er-done_. Allow the mare and foal to nuzzle and bond, before getting up and _naturally_ break the cord. The ONLY time I will cut a cord, is if the foal and placenta arrive together in a heap. Even then, I will try to tear the cord, rather than cut it, as cutting will sometimes cause it to bleed. (Yes, you can tie it; but is preferable to do it as close to natural as possible, IMHO.)

Blue Dawn dish detergent is a great lubricant, safe to use, and very slick; for the times which we find it necessary to move a foal that is turned or stuck.

Rubber gloves...invaluable.

Non-scented baby-wipes...great for cleaning nostrils and around the eyes if needed.


----------



## remington

[SIZE=12pt]This may sound over cautious, but if I know we are within a coupla days from foaling I usually have the truck with horse trailer attached backed right up to the barn door. My vets prefer the mare come to them...they can do more at the clinic. And that way if I am home alone with a mare in trouble, I don't have to go fumbling around with the truck and trailer and leave the mare. And I'm not wasting precious moments getting her going.[/SIZE]

Also, I always have a black plastic lawn and garden garbage bag handy on the floor outside the stall on the floor....its plenty of room to spread the placenta out on to inspect, and then inside it goes when I'm done. I then put the rest of the bloody and soaked bedding in the bag too so the neighborhood wolves, coyotes, and dogs don't get any ideas.

I keep a journal yearly on each mare that states pre-foaling signs and dates they occur, gestation lengths (in days), foaling occurances and problems, and foal conditions. Every year during mare stare I read back on the journals and refresh my memory for that mare. I also watch over my foaling videos from the previous year....it helps me to learn what to change next time, and watch the mares labor habits.

ABSOLUTELY if you have a mare that is dripping milk do NOT take your eyes off her!!! Foaling is assured to be imminent! For my mares it is withing minutes up to 2 hours prefoaling. ***CAUTION*** Not all mares drip milk prefoaling so do not rely on that alone



:

I put thermoses of hot water in the barn with me when I go out...for comforts such as washing my hands afterwards in warm water and also to make a warm bran mash for the mares.

Put your Ivermectin right in the foaling box to give to the mare after foaling....otherwise you will forget and have to run back to the barn later instead of taking that long desired nap!!


----------



## Happy Valley

Thank you thank you THANK YOU! For all of this information! It will be a year or so before I have foals, but this is wonderful information. :aktion033:


----------



## Miss_Fortune

What about if the baby is in the wrong position? Are there any websites too? Thanks.


----------



## Miniv

Miss_Fortune said:


> What about if the baby is in the wrong position? Are there any websites too? Thanks.



I don't know about websites, but some of the books try to cover the subject to a point. Lots of what you will learn will be from visiting other farms and from your own experiences.....at least that's what happened with us.

We are STILL learning after over 15 years of breeding........

FIRST thing is to call the vet!

One of the biggest things I know to do is when the presentation of the two hooves and the nose isn't right, is to be aggressive....."Grease up, dip yourself in iodine/nolvasan" and go up inside the mare to feel what's going on. Sometimes it's an easy fix....Either the nose is hooked up or one foot is folded back. Don't be afraid to push the foal back up inside a ways to unhook or unfold.

Another common presentation is a breech. That's when it's good to know a horse's basic conformation so you know you are feeling the BACK legs. The best thing to do is to pull the foal out (in a downward motion) with the mare's contractions as FAST as possible.

Unfortunately there are presentations that are almost impossible to solve without a vet and unless your vet lives within minutes away, you are destined for a sad result, I hate to say..... They aren't common, but they do happen and they've happened to us. One is what I call an "umbrella breech" and it's when the foal is trying to come out butt first.

For an "umbrella breech" you can feel the tail and rear but no legs or feet. It's rare, but it's possible to push the foal back up and get the two legs extended to present as a regular breech. Looking back, if we'd known more at the time, we may have been able to do it but instead the vet did and by that time the foal was lost.






This is probably a lot of stuff to absorb in one post....sorry about that. And there are many other presentations not mentioned, but many of the books mentioned in previous posts bring them up. They aren't common, but they do happen. The most important thing to remember is --- IF YOU GO INSIDE THE MARE AND DON"T KNOW WHAT'S GOING ON --- MAKE SURE YOUR VET IS ALREADY ON THE WAY!!!!

THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS THE HEALTH AND LIFE OF YOUR MARE.

Please feel free to PM me if you want.

MA


----------



## Meavey

Last year I had a foal that was shoulder locked for a moment, but when I pushed the second leg back she popped right out!

The foal is always born with the one leg first and the other a bit behind the first, because of the angle of the shoulder, it slippes true the birth canal easier in that way.

(maybe someone can explain the front leg thing better then me, since english is not my home language)

Also if the foal should be hiplocked you could try turning it, right?


----------



## kaykay

i had a hiplocked foal last season



He also had a back leg up to the front and was twisted in the cord. Most say to push backward and twist slightly to get the hip to unlock. Unfortunaley it didnt work for us.


----------



## MiLo Minis

Something else to remember is DON'T EVER pull the afterbirth from the mare. Allow it to come out on its own. If you try to pull it out it can tear and leave some inside the mare causing infection. If she doesn't push it out gather it up and tie it to her tail so that she doesn't step on it and tear it herself. Usually the weight of it will allow it to fall out itself and if it doesn't call the vet.

If the umbilical cord doesn't break on it own given plenty of time my vet tells me to twist it and pull to tear it which will help to seal it off rather than cutting it which leaves it open to infection.

Relating to the shoulders - when pulling a foal to help get it out don't pull both legs evenly. The shoulders must be uneven to fit through and if you pull on both legs you will straighten them up making it more difficult if not impossible.


----------



## Lisa-Ruff N Tuff Minis

Viki said:


> [SIZE=12pt]These tips may sound a little strange to you...but here goes!
> 
> 
> 
> : [/SIZE]
> 
> Be aware of you OWN health issues as well! I have asthma, so I have a spare inhaler in my foaling kit!
> 
> Viki


BOy this is the truth.. we had a mare last year who's foal kept stopping breathing she did it like 3 times before the vet arrived and again a couple times in front of him she wasnt fainting she was not breathing it was very scary .. by the time the vet got here he was like go in and get your own meds or you will croak to I hadnt even realized i couldnt breath in all the panic and not sure i would have gone into the house at that point anyway so yes for sure make sure you have your meds in your foaling kit that is GREAT advice


----------



## runamuk

Viki said:


> [SIZE=12pt]These tips may sound a little strange to you...but here goes!
> 
> 
> 
> : [/SIZE]
> 
> Be aware of you OWN health issues as well! I have asthma, so I have a spare inhaler in my foaling kit!
> 
> Long finger nails! Sorry, girls, IF you have long lovely finger nails, in foaling season, shorten them! You sure don't want to be going inside a mare (gloved or not) with long nails!
> 
> Viki


It is lambing season here and normally I have very nice nails..however this time of year they are cut as short as I can keep them and now jewelry rings can tear up a uterus......very glad I do this as I was pulling a lamb at midnight on thurs/friday (it was doa) .....you never know when you will have to help and there probably wont be time to trim your nails.....

I have iodine and nolvasan.....I prefer the iodine.....but the nolvasan is handy for flushing various things and cleaning up.

My lambing kit contains....lube, tube, several sizes syringes, gloves and sleeves. Towels there are never enough towels ........I also take old worn blankets and cut them down to beach towel size for drying warming cleanup......

Flashlight and lots of batteries



:


----------



## Getitia

> If the umbilical cord doesn't break on it own given plenty of time my vet tells me to twist it and pull to tear it which will help to seal it off rather than cutting it which leaves it open to infection.


Good advice, in 15 years of foaling we have never cut an umbilical cord - our trick for dealing with this situation - is when we have an umbilical cord still attached, either step (you or someone else) on the placenta while the foal is standing up, or step on it and pick the foal up. Each year, this step is necessary for two to three foals- and has always provided a natural break - and we have yet to have a case of naval ill (said with fingers crossed for future good luck) - we now foal out approximately 25 foals a year.


----------



## RobinRTrueJoy

Good thread, thanks!

Also... if by chance the foal is lost...... milk the mare for 24 hours and save and freeze the colostrum. You never know when you ot someone else may need it. If you have a need of colostum and have none on hand.... contact the closet vet hospital or foaling far. Most will have some and most will sell some to you.

One more tip.... PRAY!


----------



## KrisP

No matter how tired you are don't shoot your spouse for silly things or questions, you never know when you're going to need them in a pinch! :bgrin :risa_suelos:



:

Oops, sorry, now for serious, it's good to keep a pair of shoelaces in your foaling kit in case you need them to snag a tiny hoof in there to hang onto and in the rare case of a umbilical cord which does bleed (rare but it does happen).

Krisp


----------



## Lauralee

When I know a mare is imminently due, and I am turning in for bed, I make sure that my slipon barn shoes, a good grubby pair of jeans and shirt, and contact solution (for my dry nighttime contacts!) are all at my bedside so that when I see the mare doing something on the monitor, I can dress in a flash and get down to the barn.

My foaling supplies are ready to go in the barn and I ALWAYS make my husband go with me just in case someone needs to get on the phone.

We have a barn phone also.


----------



## Marnie

I don't see it mentioned yet, maybe I missed it, but so important. Know what a red bag birth is. And don't panic, it's not as scarey as you think. At least for me, when it happens, I just go into this mode of calmness, I cut the bag, pray the foals in the right position and pull it out. Only once was the foal not in the right position in a red bag delivery and it was a little 30 inch mare, hard to get in there but I did it, I was determined and I was lucky enough to get the baby out safe.


----------



## Margaret

I always have Banamine paste on hand when foaling, to prevent the mare from cramping afterwards, and going down on the ground again. The vet will tell you the right amounts to give to the mare.. One year I did not have any on hand,- and it took a while for me to run get and it,.. meanwhile the the foal was getting pooped out from running around the mare to get her to stand up.... By the time I got back, the foal was too "tuckered" to nurse, now that the the banamine made the mare feel better, and would stand for him. So I ended up having to express the milk myself to give it to the foal, for the first so many feedings, til he would stand..


----------



## AJ

If temps are cold/cool, a hair dryer is a MUST for me. Until the foal nurses (could be 40 min or 4 hours) it needs its reserve to stay mobile, and should not have to expend precious energy to stay warm which is impossible if wet. A dry , energetic foal likely to nurse sooner.


----------



## MeadowRidge Farm

Someone just emailed me and said she couldnt find this post---so BUMPITY, bump, bump!


----------



## Miniv

Margaret said:


> I always have Banamine paste on hand when foaling, to prevent the mare from cramping afterwards, and going down on the ground again. The vet will tell you the right amounts to give to the mare.. One year I did not have any on hand,- and it took a while for me to run get and it,.. meanwhile the the foal was getting pooped out from running around the mare to get her to stand up.... By the time I got back, the foal was too "tuckered" to nurse, now that the the banamine made the mare feel better, and would stand for him. So I ended up having to express the milk myself to give it to the foal, for the first so many feedings, til he would stand..



We ALWAYS give the mare a half dose of banamine with every birth. It has never affected the mare pushing out the afterbirth. And we ALWAYS milk a little colostrum from the mare and feed it to the foal. It seems to give the newborn a bit of a "jumpstart", gives it energy to be more aggressive, and shows it what they are looking for in both taste and smell.

MA


----------



## Crabby-Chicken

Good tips you guys. I really agree with milking the mare and get a little milk in the foal as soon as possible. It gives them energy to get up and find the food faster I have found.

Also our thing is, take a few drops of the colostrum and put it in a clean cup right after birth. Then as soon as you can, take a drop or so of the umbilical cord blood and add it to the colostrum. Mix the blood and milk. If they mix normally, you are fine. BUT if the blood and milk seperates, then you have incompatibility of the mare and foals blood. DO NOT allow the foal to nurse untill you talk to the vet. This can be fatal if not caught early. Just an easy test to do. We always do it.

And having J Lube around, the slipperest stuff in the world. I have used it everytime I go in to check the foal. My friends vet said that he could get a 10 foot pole in a 3 inch hole with that stuff! It works great. :bgrin


----------



## qtrrae

Thanks, Meadowridge for starting this post!

What a lot of great ideas!!

I can't actually think of anything to add except have your camera handy so that all your buddies on LB can see your new little mini "bundle of joy!"


----------



## Bess Kelly

I have a few headlights -- bought in hunting area at WalMart. Use them for night feeding, checking on animals, etc. Yep, you can open gates, handle buckets and not have to HOLD the flashlight.



:

The fit onto your head with adjustable wide elastic....have several degrees of light, even red for night vision...and this allows you to have BOTH hands free, and still have the "flashlight" pointing where you need it. Hey, it's always shadowy in those stalls! Besides, I find the red light is less annoying to them when I just go to check the barn, etc.

Like Marty, I keep my clothes "ready" to jump into and run -- heck, I've even gone out in my PJ's! -- but it's always better if you get dressed first. Just never know what might be happening.

Keep leadlines & halters ready for use. If you use an alert, this is one time when your mare will already be haltered but, don't want to have to search for a leadline. There are times when you need them for more than just leading.


----------



## Jill

This is actually for *weaning season*.

After you take your foal off your mare, you can put oragel (the stuff for gum pain / teething) on your mare's udder for a few days which will help her with the pain of the udder being full but not nursed.

I will be printing and saving this thread



:


----------



## rabbitsfizz

The pain killers after birth are important, and not something a Vet will usually tell you, (unless she is a mother



: )

If I go to bed when a mare is foaling, I go fully clothed bar my boots and hat!!!

May look strange but hey, what do I care??

I always have a small baby bottle to hand and I milk off at least a bottle full off each mare that foals, label and freeze (if not used)

I also give each baby a bottle of milk, before they have stood to nurse, as I can then watch for the muconium and, once that has been passed and the mare has been given her painkillers I can get an hours sleep and not worry about the foal nursing.

If the foal chooses to go to sleep, which they normally do after a feed, the next time they wake they are usually up and at the bag straight away, rested and strong.

I have done this with maidens and experienced mares alike without problems.

It also saved a tiny colts life last year as he would not nurse for three days and his Grandmothers colostrum (not even frozen as she had just foaled) and later "stolen" milk kept him going till he was ready to nurse and his Mama had good milk.


----------



## Becky

I don't really have anything new to add. Lots of excellent advice here!

Like others, I sleep in my clothes when I think foaling is imminent.

I ALWAYS give my mares Banamine right after foaling. As soon as she's foaled and I've taken care of the foal, I get the Banamine and give the mare a dose. I don't want my mares crampy and laying down a lot after the foal is born. I want them comfortable and up on their feet to take care of the foal. In fact, it may be detrimental to their health to not have something for pain! One of my clients mares foaled this last year and did not receive anything for pain after foaling. She did pass the placenta and continued to be crampy and kept pushing. She ended up partially prolapsing her uterus. This might have been prevented if she had been given Banamine after foaling.

Like others have said, milk the mare and give the foal some colostrum as soon as the foal shows some suck reflex. Colostrum is almost like rocket fuel for a foal and it nearly always gives them a lot more strength and a lot more desire to look for the milk bar!

And for those that are new at this, it's easy to milk the mare making your own 'breast pump'. Take a 60cc syringe, remove the plunger, cut the pointed end of the syringe off and insert the plunger back into the syringe throught the end you cut off. Voila! A breast pump! All you do is put the flat end of the syringe over the nipple next to the udder and gently pull back on the plunger. Normally, milk comes right out. I then put that milk into another syringe and feed the foal.


----------



## Charlotte

Boy! Someone ought to turn this into a book! Very good suggestions here.

I haven't read all 5 pages yet, but I would mention to watch a newborn foal for signs of hypothermia if the temperature is 70 degrees or below.......it may be way cooler down on the floor where he is. A cold foal will become lethargic and sleep too much. Might be difficult to rouse and not real enthusiastic about nursing.

Just be aware of what is normal and watch for any deviation.





: I just LOVE this time of year! YAAAAAWN



:

Charlotte

p.s. is everyone going to post here as the foals arrive?


----------



## Firefall

Just curious for those that milk the mare to get baby fed, how much do you express to feed for the first time and how much Banimine do you give the mare for cramps?

What a great thread to copy!


----------



## zacharyfarms

We also keep on hand in the refrigerator (has a long shelf life)

Equine IGG (Seramune)

Designed especially for failure of passive transfer of lgG from Colostrum. Administered orally to a foal in the first 12 hours of life in two even amounts 1-2 hours apart for best results. Can also be given to healthy foals at birth to ensure they are getting full protection.

This is especially great to use until you can get the IgG checked by the vet if you think the mare did not have colostrum..Does not actually take the place of IV plasma transfer if your IgG's actually test low but helps give them a boost in addition to get their levels up. But wonderful for maiden mares whose colostrum is not full of antibodies like a seasoned mare. Also for those of you that don't have immediate vet assistance available. A $65 bottle will provide at least 4 minis with assistance.

*Important to know is that if you've had to use Domperidone for milk production, the first milk is not colostrum rich.* *These foals need IgG levels checked for sure.*

We also give each foal the following:

Equine E Coli Endotox Paste

Equine antiserum used to prevent endotozemia and diarrhea caused by Escherichia coli in newborn foals. Administer orally within 12 hours of birth. Our vet has us give 1/2 syringe to each mini foal.

Also don't forget to give mare Ivermectin dewormer within 12 hours of birth or 12 hours prior (if you know when that is going to be :lol

Our vet also has us give each foal a little enema after it nurses for the first time..You may think they have passed all the meconium but it is amazing to see those little bullets fly out after the enema that they are still holding in prior to the enema. Sure makes them happier..but very very carefully do you give an enema or taking rectal temps on the little ones.

*As always check with your vet before trying any of the advice given on this forum..They will want you prepared..* Remember this is their busiest time of the year so having everything on hand will help everyone through a successful foaling season..

*GOOD LUCK TO EVERYONE ON THIS MOST EXCITING TIME OF THE YEAR*


----------



## Miniv

Firefall said:


> Just curious for those that milk the mare to get baby fed, how much do you express to feed for the first time and how much Banimine do you give the mare for cramps?
> 
> What a great thread to copy!



We give the baby between 15 to 20 cc's of mom's milk for their first feeding. Mom gets a half dose of Banamine, according to her weight and if she is extremely crampy, we give her the other half. And while we are popping things in her mouth, we also worm her with Ivermectin at the same time.

Once the newborn is on its feet, we give mom some mash. Many times the mare will stand still long enough while eating that her foal will discover at least what area of mom's body the milk is coming from!

MA


----------



## runaway ranch

This is all wonderful advice!! :aktion033:


----------



## IllusiveHussler

This is just the thread I needed!!! My rescue mini is assumed to be foaling in a few months. She goes back to the vet this weekend for more shots and hopefully another ultrasound to see if we can find a leg and measure it. But the last time she was USd the foal was kicking!

And mad have I had my share with retained placentas! Not a fun deal. (My big mare aborted again at 8 months in December...unfortunately I was home alone and my parents were out of the country...)

And I agree with having the vet on speed-dial. Luckily I got myself together and called the vet. But then I didn't know what to do so I was just calling people left and right!

I have a question about graining the dam...Say the dam foals late afternoon/early evening...should you grain that dinner? Cut it in half or anything?


----------



## MeadowRidge Farm

Charlotte, I HAVE a book going since I have been on this forum, I have been keeping all the little helpful hints that I felt we're important, and in the horse club we started last fall, out secretary keeps telling me she is going to put a corner in the newsletter, and call it Corinnes "HINT" corner! I will ask ML, maybe we can have this pinned for awhile, since foaling season is coming upon us. Thanks everyone for adding, I am sure the newbies will really appreciate all the hints on this, just PLEASE remember these are only our HELPFUL HINTS and are not to be taken to replace the VET, and are also our opinion only as to what we feel is helpful. Corinne

WOW--that was fast! Thank you ML. Corinne


----------



## jrox

:aktion033: :aktion033: :aktion033:

thank you all for your tips. I am busy copying and pasteing. ALOT OF GOOD INFO. Now I don't feel so green.. :worshippy:

Roxana


----------



## wcr

Wonderful information. Anytime you go into a mare make sure she is put on antibiotics and I always have my mares flushed after foaling. This cleans them out and puts them in the best position to rebreed. Cultures can frequently come back dirty because of the normal flora after birth and then you have to flush anyway so I routinely flush.

Always check the placenta after birth to make sure all the pieces are there. Even a small piece of placenta can cause a terrible infection leading to laminitis if left untreated.

When labor starts, LEAVE THE MARE ALONE until she reaches the point of no return and then be ready to assist if needed. A mare will stop labor until she feels safe. This is a survival mechanism. This is where cameras are invaluable as I can watch from the house until she reaches that point and then go to the barn.

Be very careful giving an enema as a torn rectum will result in a dead foal.

Dental floss for tying the umbilical cord is always in my foaling kit. Every year I have cords that don't tear.

Michelle from Wesco and I talked at length about foals born with one leg back without problems which came in very handy when I talked Sandy's first time foaling, nonhorse husband through that situation over the phone until Sandy could get there from work. Pick everyones brains you can for information as even very experienced people learn new things.


----------



## Miniv

Good call Karla! No one has posted that this year!

When each mare is bagging up, we take a small bucket of warm water and a wash cloth and wash their udder too. It's important to get up inbetween the teats/bags and "dig" out the the crud.



:

Our girls are antsy and unsure at first but end up enjoying it.

MA


----------



## Christina_M

When the mare is contracting and you are watching for the foalâ€™s front feet to come out (facing down) with the head close behind it, *donâ€™t tear the sack until you are sure that it is in the correct position*. If the foal is in an incorrect position you can push the foal back in if the sack hasnâ€™t been torn. The sack creates a slippery barrier between the foal and the mareâ€™s uterus. Iâ€™ve seen foals that were presented in an incorrect position, pushed back in (they werenâ€™t very far out) for the trailer ride to the vet hospital and in the process the foal turned itself to the correct position and was delivered without any problem.


----------



## MyBarakah

zacharyfarms said:


> We also keep on hand in the refrigerator (has a long shelf life)
> 
> Equine IGG (Seramune)
> 
> Designed especially for failure of passive transfer of lgG from Colostrum. Administered orally to a foal in the first 12 hours of life in two even amounts 1-2 hours apart for best results. Can also be given to healthy foals at birth to ensure they are getting full protection.
> 
> This is especially great to use until you can get the IgG checked by the vet if you think the mare did not have colostrum..Does not actually take the place of IV plasma transfer if your IgG's actually test low but helps give them a boost in addition to get their levels up. But wonderful for maiden mares whose colostrum is not full of antibodies like a seasoned mare. Also for those of you that don't have immediate vet assistance available. A $65 bottle will provide at least 4 minis with assistance.
> 
> *Important to know is that if you've had to use Domperidone for milk production, the first milk is not colostrum rich.* *These foals need IgG levels checked for sure.*
> 
> We also give each foal the following:
> 
> Equine E Coli Endotox Paste
> 
> Equine antiserum used to prevent endotozemia and diarrhea caused by Escherichia coli in newborn foals. Administer orally within 12 hours of birth. Our vet has us give 1/2 syringe to each mini foal.
> 
> Also don't forget to give mare Ivermectin dewormer within 12 hours of birth or 12 hours prior (if you know when that is going to be :lol
> 
> Our vet also has us give each foal a little enema after it nurses for the first time..You may think they have passed all the meconium but it is amazing to see those little bullets fly out after the enema that they are still holding in prior to the enema. Sure makes them happier..but very very carefully do you give an enema or taking rectal temps on the little ones.
> 
> *As always check with your vet before trying any of the advice given on this forum..They will want you prepared..* Remember this is their busiest time of the year so having everything on hand will help everyone through a successful foaling season..
> 
> *GOOD LUCK TO EVERYONE ON THIS MOST EXCITING TIME OF THE YEAR*


Hi!



: I was just woundering if you give the Banamine in the vein or would it be ok to give it in the muscle? I know it takes longer if given in the muscle... But I'm not a comfortable about giving a vein shot? And "when exactly" are you suppose to milk the mare? So you have a bottle of the mare's milk to give the to baby?

Thanks!!!



:


----------



## ChrystalPaths

This is so cool Corrinne!

I use one of those huge popcorn tins you get at walmart over the holidays for my birthing kit.

I have gloves which I never did get on with the red bag last year. KY jelly, I did use that although as soon as I broke the red bag we were very lubed, my head lamp even though there is a light above each stall, a sharp sterile pair of scissors in case you need to cut the cord, novalsan and iodine, unscented fanny wipes, great for quick clean ups after. Tons of soft unscented towels already rubbed on mom. A trash bag for the placenta, banamine already drawn with the needle ready to be removed. I give it orally immediately when mom gets up. No need for ouchies at this wonderful moment. A watch to tell time of birth, cell or portable phone, a clean unscented sheet (sure came in handy for my Techno who sure shocked me, just slipped it uder her bum and we were clean. A baby enema(which i lacked last year), lots of chocolate for me, I keep a big soft shirt of my dad's to wear for the birthing. Makes me feel like he's there helping me stay calm. Popscicle sticks for some folks, the membranes can be tough to rupture and the sticks are easy to crack and tear with then toss over the stall door although I did it with my nails the one time needed. I also keep clean soft unscented washcloths handy for cleaning the baby's face and mama's privates. I take a thermos of really warm water out with me too. I swear when I put the warm cloth on Thera's swollen sore vulva after she had Missy she groaned in great pleasure. I continued to warm press her often. Gosh what else....I bed with the softest straw with sawdust under it, after the birth I use a muck bucket and remove the yuk and wet and rebed. OH and a camera! Gotta get on the forum asap to tell everyone, right!

I wish one and all a wonderful healthy foaling season. This is so super Corrine. The LB main page also has super info on red bags and malpositions and such. Without it and all your wonderful info I would have lost Missy.


----------



## qtrmoonfarm

WONDERFUL tips to remind us all!

In addition to doing most of the above my favorite is to microwave towels and washcloths and tuck them into an insulated bag like the type you get to carry frozen goods from the grocery store..we shake them out and check for hot spots and roll them up and tuck them in the bag , seal it up and walaaa nice toasty towels to dry off baby, mom and our hands



Whoever gets to the barn last, brings the bag LOL only takes about 3 minutes to warm up 2-3 towels and 3-4 washcloths..or if I'm home alone when daytime births occur I preheat them when I think we are getting close, the warm lasts quite awhile! I have them ready now..two mares are close!


----------



## Kim~Crayonboxminiatures

This is great, all good information!

Just wanted to add, visit my webpages on signs of foaling, so you know what to watch for:

All photos are of actual Miniature Horses.

Foaling Signs

I also want to highlight the journal, I keep a journal on the pregnant mare starting at 300 days and keep track of their changes up until foaling. It is very valuable information, and if you sell the mare will be appreciated by the new owners as well.


----------



## minifarmgirl

The Crayonboxminiature site has great foaling info and photos. It was one of the first sites I stumbled upon when I started gathering info. The photos really help a lot.


----------



## Anne ABC

Can you share more information with me regarding the previously recommended Ivermectin treatment after foaling? Why do you feel it is important prior to the 12 hour point? Just wondering as I have seen it mentioned several times.

Thanks

"Also don't forget to give mare Ivermectin dewormer within 12 hours of birth or 12 hours prior (if you know when that is going to be ) "


----------



## zacharyfarms

Regarding Ivermectin use within 12 hours of foaling:

Studies indicated that oral ivermectin administered to the mare within 12 hours of birth could prevent the development of certain intestinal parasites in their foals. Further studies have shown that the ivermectin treatment could essentially provide the foals an opportunity for begininng life free of infestation by the parasite _Strongyloides westeri_ and less colics associated with this type parasite. The timing is crucial within 12 hours after birth and the use of ivermectin..No other product provides the same results.

Strongyloides westeri (Threadworms)

-Location: small intestine of the horse, donkey, and pig

-Lifecycle:

Ingestion of larvae or penetration through the skin

Larvae that enter through the skin migrate to the lungs and into trachea

Coughed up and swallowed

Larvae mature into adults in the small intestine

Adults females lay eggs that are passed in the feces

-Only females worms are parasitic

-PPP= 6-10 days

-Pathogenesis

Invasion: Pyogenic streptococci may be associated with skin penetration

Migration: Usually causes food problems

Intestinal: Adults are embedded in mucosa and lamina propria and cause villous atrophy

Enteritis and diarrhea are common in heavily infected foals

-Diagnosis: small embryonated eggs in feces

-Immunity: Older animals are immune but are carriers. Mares are a reservoir; larvae in paramammary tissue

-Control: Routine worming program

Ivermectin treatment of mares within 12 hours postpartum significantly reduces transmission to foals


----------



## Anne ABC

zacharyfarms said:


> Regarding Ivermectin use within 12 hours of foaling:
> 
> Studies indicated that oral ivermectin administered to the mare within 12 hours of birth could prevent the development of certain intestinal parasites in their foals. Further studies have shown that the ivermectin treatment could essentially provide the foals an opportunity for begininng life free of infestation by the parasite _Strongyloides westeri_ and less colics associated with this type parasite. The timing is crucial within 12 hours after birth and the use of ivermectin..No other product provides the same results.
> 
> Strongyloides westeri (Threadworms)
> 
> -Location: small intestine of the horse, donkey, and pig
> 
> -Lifecycle:
> 
> Ingestion of larvae or penetration through the skin
> 
> Larvae that enter through the skin migrate to the lungs and into trachea
> 
> Coughed up and swallowed
> 
> Larvae mature into adults in the small intestine
> 
> Adults females lay eggs that are passed in the feces
> 
> -Only females worms are parasitic
> 
> -PPP= 6-10 days
> 
> -Pathogenesis
> 
> Invasion: Pyogenic streptococci may be associated with skin penetration
> 
> Migration: Usually causes food problems
> 
> Intestinal: Adults are embedded in mucosa and lamina propria and cause villous atrophy
> 
> Enteritis and diarrhea are common in heavily infected foals
> 
> -Diagnosis: small embryonated eggs in feces
> 
> -Immunity: Older animals are immune but are carriers. Mares are a reservoir; larvae in paramammary tissue
> 
> -Control: Routine worming program
> 
> Ivermectin treatment of mares within 12 hours postpartum significantly reduces transmission to foals


Thank you so much, Ivermectin will be in my foaling kit in the future. Anne


----------



## tshack

Dona said:


> Southern_Heart said:
> 
> 
> 
> *Forgot to add that if your mare is still in her winter woolies, its best to shave her belly and down a bit on the legs so the foal won't have so much trouble finding the teats among all that hair.*
> 
> *
> *
> 
> 
> 
> * *
> 
> *
> Another very important reason for shaving that long winter hair away from the mare's belly & rear leg area, is because the mares are usually shedding by the handfuls by the time they foal. Many foals will ingest so much of this hair while searching for the teats, that they will get hairballs in their little tummies & make them colic. There have even been foals who have died from this! I usually shave the entire belly, halfway up the sides, and rear legs on winter-coated mares. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *:*
> 
> *
> *
Click to expand...

* *

* *

*
Thanks for the tip it's the one thing I was gonna write in and ask about. Another Q how far in advance woudl you do this? A week, month what?*


----------



## tshack

Another Q as I haven't seen it posted.

What about other vaccinations and meds besides the wormer? That would be a handy thing I'd think to have on hand. I will add I've saved a bunch of this info!


----------



## sedeh

Hi!



: I was just woundering if you give the Banamine in the vein or would it be ok to give it in the muscle? I know it takes longer if given in the muscle... But I'm not a comfortable about giving a vein shot? And "when exactly" are you suppose to milk the mare? So you have a bottle of the mare's milk to give the to baby?

Thanks!!!



:

My vet actually recommends giving the injectable banamine orally. I've found it works just fine. I also don't like to give vein shots, even though I've been an ER nurse for years and know the technique I just don't like risking infection.


----------



## [email protected]

We have given the Ivermectin to mares at foaling, and always use Ivermectin within 30 days before foaling. This year I'm giving the liquid Ivermectin to my difficult mares in their grain after foaling.

As for the Banamine, we give it orally and have for years. I'm not going to do IV - I want healthy veins should the vet need them and find the liquid orally given works really fast.

Sandy, you can milk the mare if the foal isn't up and nursing right away - 20-30 cc's is really good, even a smaller amount to give them the taste and we'll put some directly on the nipple too. You don't want to give it liquids if its still down (especially on its side). We'll hold a foal up if need be and syringe very slowly in their mouth. If you can't milk the mare, a bit of Karo (10 cc) works as it gives the foal energy to 'search' for nipple too. (Maxim does the milking here - he's much better than I am)

Also if you have a real milk cow mare, milk some of the colstrum too, and store in a ziplock baggie in the freezer.


----------



## auledasacres

I wanted to share this since it has happened to me. If you mare will not let the new one eat. You can buy a large syringe(no needle), cut the syringe top off, then take the plunger out of the syringe and insert into the cut off end. If you put some lubricant on the other end this will act as a breast pump if needed.

This saved my little colt and a few others in the area last year. My mare's bag was so full the foal couldn't get hold of the bag. Milking her out lessened the bag so the baby could get a hold.

Good Luck

Traci


----------



## Miniv

[email protected] said:


> We have given the Ivermectin to mares at foaling, and always use Ivermectin within 30 days before foaling. This year I'm giving the liquid Ivermectin to my difficult mares in their grain after foaling.
> 
> As for the Banamine, we give it orally and have for years. I'm not going to do IV - I want healthy veins should the vet need them and find the liquid orally given works really fast.
> 
> Sandy, you can milk the mare if the foal isn't up and nursing right away - 20-30 cc's is really good, even a smaller amount to give them the taste and we'll put some directly on the nipple too. You don't want to give it liquids if its still down (especially on its side). We'll hold a foal up if need be and syringe very slowly in their mouth. If you can't milk the mare, a bit of Karo (10 cc) works as it gives the foal energy to 'search' for nipple too. (Maxim does the milking here - he's much better than I am)
> 
> Also if you have a real milk cow mare, milk some of the colstrum too, and store in a ziplock baggie in the freezer.


Michelle,

You do EXACTLY what we do.

Our immediate steps after taking care of the newborn is to quickly give the mare a half dose of banamine AND her Ivermectin ..... then she's given something to eat.



:

MA


----------



## Becky

I do the after foaling worming a little bit differently. I prefer to wait until my mares pass their first manure before worming. I've had some mares that have actually develped an impaction colic after foaling and I feel deworming them before their intestinal tract is back to normal could have some adverse effects. Again, just my personal opinion and I do always deworm after foaling, just wait until they pass manure.


----------



## schutzandwhinnies

Hi everyone :bgrin,

I am new here and was wanting some advise. So far we are following our vet's advise and though he is highly recomended, he doesn't have any mini's himself. I am very big on experiences and the 2% as it always happens to us. The doctor will say "Oh no that never happens" and wham it happens to us. I am off today to buy a couple of the books recomended on this thread. Barbie (our mini) is 10 and is due on April 15th. The vet says she is doing fine with the exercise we give her and the nutrition we are providing her with. We feed her grass hay and give her a suppliment each day. I asked him about grain and he said not until the last 30 days and thru lactation. Well I have had a lot of advise from friends that have horses, but not mini's. Examples: Feed grain for the entire pregnancy, only feed grain the last 1/3, then some agree with the vet. To suppliment with grain or not to.



: I have found out over the last year that one rule just doesn't seem to apply to every horse, so I thought I would ask to see what some of you are doing or have done with your mares to keep them healthy and happy and in shape for foaling. Thanks for your input. Amy


----------



## tshack

I'd be interested to know the feeding part too. In cattle you feed them up until the last trimester and back off a bit as that is the one trimester where the calf grows the most and pouring it to them, will make them have a big calf and could possible cause prob delievering. Are horses that way?


----------



## slaneyrose

What would be the equivalant of Benamine here in Ireland does anyone know?? Also, I try to have the tetanus anti toxin ready for all foals as even when mares are vaccinated they can still get tetanus. And in between checks and sleeping I read Theresa Jones wonderfully helpful website and email her if I have a worry as she is the most knowledgeable person I know and always reply within a few hours. (Obviously I`m not talking about emergency veterinary worries but signs of pending foaling etc.)


----------



## Sandy S.

:

THROUGH THIS FOALING SEASON REMEMBER THIS AND CHERISH EACH AND EVERYONE EVERY DAY.

I'll Lend You A Foal

I'll lend you for a little while

My grandest foal, He said.

For you to love while she's alive

And mourn for when she's dead.

It may be one or twenty years,

Or days or months, you see.

But will you, till I take her back

Take care of her for me?

She'll bring her charms to gladden you,

And should her stay be brief

You'll have her treasured memories

As solance for your grief.

I can't promise how long the stay,

Since all from earth return.

But there are lessons taught on earth

That from this special foal you'll learn.

I've looked the wide world over

In my search for teachers true.

And from the throngs that crowd life's lanes

With trust, I've chosen you.

Now will you give her all your love?

Nor think the labor vain,

Nor hate me when I come

To take her back again?

I know you'll give her tenderness

And love will bloom each day.

And for the happiness you've known

You will forever grateful stay.

But should I come and call for her

Much sooner than you planned,

You'll brave the bitter grief that comes

And then you'll understand......

They are special needing little souls

That give more than they take,

But leave behind their tiny hoofprints

on our heart,

To forever trot on past their wake.


----------



## S. RUSSELL

Joyce said:


> The Complete Book of Foaling should be in everyone's hands and re-read it every year before foaling season as a reminder of the important things.
> 
> Most of all, watch your mare, be with her for delivery, and watch mare and foal even after birth.
> 
> A monitor and a Breeder Alert or a device similar are your best tools for helping. Be alert and ready for everything that comes your way. Vet's number handy and a way of transporting the mare or mare and foal if there are problems.
> 
> Well stocked foaling kit and enjoy the birth. :saludando:


----------



## S. RUSSELL

MiLo Minis said:


> I foal mine out in the barn under a heat lamp and don't towel dry the babies so I don't have to worry about changing the scent at all. Handling the foal as little as possible until the mare has had a chance to check it out is the best way to go without risking her rejecting it. Something for a new to foaling person to realize is that it usually happens fairly quickly and if it isn't there is usually something wrong. Something else to think about is that if you hover and keep checking on the mare repeatedly she will likely hang onto the foal and wait till you leave to go down. That is why cameras are so great - you can keep a watch on the mare without disturbing her and maybe preventing her from foaling. Once she is down and the foal is on its way you can then slip down to the barn and be there. It is really important to treat the navel against infection once the cord breaks - check with your vet for what he recommends and have it on hand. I put it in a shot glass and press it up against the belly to make sure it is well dunked!


What is to be used on the navel?? I remember seeing that some medication was to harsh and could burn but I can't find my article.


----------



## Miniv

What is to be used on the navel?? I remember seeing that some medication was to harsh and could burn but I can't find my article.

Some people use a gentle iodine and others prefer Nolvasan.

MA


----------



## KrazyHorses

My vet wants me to use the 7% for the stump. He said the iodine spray I bought was not strong enough. He said the stuff he gave me will sting them a bit, but it was necessary to prevent infection and proper drying up of the stump.


----------



## Nichcole

Thank you guys for posting ll your advice. I'm getting ready to breed my mini int eh spring


----------



## quaters

Okay, here we go...Sorry, its going to be a long one...

Another tip for finger nails. If you are like some people and you like keeping your nails long or you have an unexpected premature delivery and don't have time to clip them down....Be sure to keep large cotton balls with your gloves. Just stuff a cotton ball in each finger tip of the glove and put them on. I usually keep a few pairs of them already put together in the foaling and first aide kits just in case.

I also keep one of the long tiped "booger suckers" that are made for babies in the foaling kit. (sorry I can't think of the name for them) It great for helping to clear out nasal passages.

It is also a good idea to have a back up vet on speed dial. Last year we had a breech that I was having trouble turning. And my vet was on another call. Very scary situation...Luckly after a few minutes of push and pull with the foal we got him out.

If it is still pretty cool outside we keep a red bulbed heat lamp on the top of the stall. It helps warm the stall up pretty quickly for the everyone.

Vet wrap....You can never have enough vet wrap around. When it looks like one of the mare's will be foaling with in the next few days or so, I keep their tail braided and vet wrap the top 6 inches or so of it. I also change the vet wrap every day until the foal is born.

Warm water and washcloths are a great thing to have around also. Before I turn in for the night I wash the mare's vulva and teets off. This way I know they are clean and ready to go. Then after the mare has finished foaling, I wash her up again to get any sweat and other fluids off of her.

I also take and put the placenta into a plastic grocery sack, and then tie that to the mare's tail to keep her from stepping on it. It also helps cut down on mucking after the birth.

And last but not least. Try to find a surrogent mare in your area. Or one that prouduces large amounts of milk. Three years ago one of the mare was not producing enough milk. Thankfully we had another mare that foaled before her who produced enough for 2 or 3 foals. I would milk the doner mare several times a day and bottle feed the foal with a mixture of her milk and some of mom's.

Also, if you should ever loose a mare, and you have another mare due to foal shortly after...Milk your lost mare. Feed the foal a mixture of it's mother milk, and the possible surrogent mare's milk. When the surrogent mare finally foals, bring in the orphan and rub them down good with the placenta, and let it lay across their back for a few minutes so the smell really sets in. Let the mare smell her own foal first, and accept it. Then let her smell the orphan foal, and pray that she will take it also. If she shows any signs of rejection to the orphan foal, take them out immediately!


----------



## FoRebel

If you have a mare that supposedly has had a foal or 2 pulled and supposedly has had a dwarf.... SEND HER TO THE VET'S PLACE TO BE FOALED OUT! I've never had to pull a foal since we've only just started foaling with the 2006 season but I do have a mare that supposedly has had to have foals pulled on her.... We're sending her to the vet's place to foal out since there's more she can do than we can. I really don't want to risk loosing this mare, she's a really sweet mare, and her foal since this is the last foal she'll have.


----------

