# Cart amintenance



## Reignmaker Miniatures (Feb 2, 2011)

I was reading a post here where someone commented on proper maintenance of cart wheels and it occurred to me that the subject had not been discussed here (to my recollection at least) Since I am the editor of our small club's newsletter (and always looking for article ideas) I thought I'd see if I can collect enough pointers to do a short write up that our club members might find useful. Since most, tho by no means all, of our members drive this could be a timely article to prepare them for a safe start up to a new season.

OK so how the heck do I edit the topic title? My fingers got ahead of themselves


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## Shari (Feb 2, 2011)

for my wooden Country road Cart..

I check the cart over, before I drive every time. Checking bolts and the wood for any problems.

Depending on how much I am driving, I might have to tighten a few things up every 6 months and and grease the Single tree (US term),

swingle tree(british term for the same thing).

My hubs are closed, so I do not have to worry about greasing those.


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## RhineStone (Feb 2, 2011)

We have flush hubs on our miniature vehicles, and about once a year we take off the hub cap and restuff the hub with grease. Ok, it's not really a WE project, it's more like a HE project. I don't want to get my hands full of grease!



Bearings can and will go bad without adequate lubrication. When we have a new vehicle, Chad packs the bearings and I help with setting him up to do it. It's also not a bad idea to know how to remove your wheel to check those bearings.

If wooden spokes aren't tight, the wheel needs to go to a wheelwright. There was an idea a long time ago that you could just soak the wheel and it would expand enough to be tight, but what happens when it dries out again? That is just a "quick fix".

Our marathon vehicle has grease circs (sp?) all over it that we grease once a year or more if it has spent time in the rain/wet. Any mud needs to be washed off asap, especially mud from Iowa. That stuff is like CONCRETE if you let it dry!

We also lubricate the springs (I can't stand squeaks) with silicone spray, and we always have some in our truck box for when we are on the road. We like silicone spray better than grease or WD-40. It doesn't attract the dirt the way the previous do. I basically use it anywhere there is a squeak.

Check the seat attachment bolts or screws.

Also check the singletree. We have had bolts that have bent with torque from a horse flipping out. Make sure that your singletree safety straps are in good shape and oil them if they are leather. If you don't have any, get some. They will save you from a major wreck.

This is a really good reason to take your vehicle to a show at least once a year. It forces you, in the process of cleaning it, to really go over it well.

Myrna


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## Reignmaker Miniatures (Feb 2, 2011)

great start Shari and Rhinestone





From other post...



RhineStone said:


> Sometimes it is just simply the lack of knowledge that leads to the lack of maintenance. Regardless, once you know better, you do better, especially if it means getting the right equipment for the job.
> 
> Myrna


Exactly why I started this thread, I hope everyone will post here with what they think is a must do in cart maintenance. Most of our club members drive the 'inexpensive' 2 wheel EE starter carts so any info on proper care and maintenance is great. Thanks.


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## Sandee (Feb 3, 2011)

Great topic, since these vehicles don't exactly come with a manual. Maybe someone can tell us if Graber and Jerald use "closed" hubs that don't need greasing or how to recongize a "closed" hub.

I've tightened all the bolts to get rid of squeeks but have no clue what a "dry" bearing sounds like.


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## hobbyhorse23 (Feb 4, 2011)

When I got my first cart I literally didn't know a wrench from a rachet. Wait...I still don't.



Is there such a thing as a racheting wrench?





I had Dad teach me what was necessary to assemble the cart (me knowing cart fitting and balance, he knowing tools) and that is still about the extent of my knowledge. In the process of putting it together I learned where all the things that can work loose are and I check those regularly at the start of the season and before any major drives. My Graber in particular tends to work the nuts loose and I check it before every show in the process of cleaning it up. I've learned to repair and wax a paintjob (a courtesy my car never got until my cart did!), use a torque wrench, drill and finish new singletrees, switch out and install parts, and build some parts like whip holders from scratch. I'm religious about keeping my singletrees quiet and moving freely but not so freely it's a problem.

Other than that, the best I've managed so far is noticing when something has changed and bringing it to the attention of someone who might know if that particular thing matters and how to fix it if so. I would LOVE to read the equivalent of an owner's manual for carts. I wouldn't know a bearing if you smacked me in the forehead with one, never mind how to grease it! I understand harness- the manufacturing process, fit, stress points, and signs of wear. Not so much with metal and wood.

Leia


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## RhineStone (Feb 4, 2011)

Sandee said:


> I've tightened all the bolts to get rid of squeeks but have no clue what a "dry" bearing sounds like.


Seems to me that Chad said that it is a grinding noise, like there is sand in the wheel. Or maybe that is when the bearing is "going out".

We did, however, had one lock up on us. When we first started driving in carriage shows, I had bought the wooden wheels from Wagoner's for my mom's show cart. I don't remember who put them on, but apparently someone in the family didn't realize that there were bearings in the wheel hub. So they didn't get greased...at all. The other problem we had was that one wheel kept loosening and had to be tightened at virtually every show. Well, after we had been driving in this cart for a few years, my sister was on her way to an obstacle course at a show, and the wheel totally locked up! She came back to the trailer with the wheel being "drug" and said something about, "We have a problem!" Chad took the wheel off and discovered the issue. Of course, Wagoners and Jerald use their own hub, so the bearings were a bit different as well, but Chad took it and ran down to the local auto parts store and picked up a set of bearings that would "work". Note, however, that there wasn't any "noise" when the wheel locked up.

When we got home after the show, the wheels were taken completely off, new bearings were packed and put in, and some time later we also discovered about the use of Castle nuts and cotter pins for holding the wheel on. Chad had to drill a small hole in the axle and insert a cotter pin, and since then the wheel hasn't wanted to wobble off.

Now when we go to shows, Chad has his tool collection in the truck box, as well as complete sets of new bearings, grease, nuts, washers, bolts, etc. You'd be amazed at how many people will come hunt him down at the shows to get something fixed.

I'll see if I can find a photo of hub parts.

Myrna


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## RhineStone (Feb 4, 2011)

So I took this photo off the Frey Carriage Company website. These are pieces for a wooden wheel hub.






The top piece is a typical roller bearing axle stub. The Castle nut is screwed on the end. The reason it is called a castle nut is because the end of it looks like turrets (not to be confused with terrets on a harness) of a castle.

In the next row on the left is the oil seal. When you "assemble" these parts in your wheel hub, the seal goes first. We have had "tight" oil seals that need to have a bit of grease put around them until they "break in". The oil seals keep the lubrication inside the hub. Then comes the two bearings (next in line), which need to be "seated" on the axle. The "inside" of the bearing doesn't move on the axle. There are little pieces of metal that roll inside the bearing, hence why you have to pack (grease) the bearings (messy job). Metal on metal heats and locks up without lubrication.

After the bearings are seated on the axle inside the wheel hub, the castle nut is put on to desired tightness (you have to spin the wheel to figure this out, so you need a way to jack up your vehicle), followed by the little cotter pin which is put through a tiny hole in the end of the axle. The cotter pin keeps the nut from turning, and the wheel from falling off. You need a needlenose pliers to put this in and take it out. Then, we grease the whole assembly inside the hub before we put the hub cap on. We will take the hub cap off about once a year and regrease the hub/axle.

The big "gold" round thing is a Graber (I think, it's hard to tell from this angle) hub cap for a Graber hub, which takes a different style axle. The black one on the end, as well as the chrome and the brass one below it are hub caps for Sarven and Flush hubs. Hub caps screw onto the wheel hub, not the axle, hence why a Graber hub cap will only fit a Graber wheel, etc. The black cap in the bottom row is an antique (or antique style) square nut, and the coiled leather is what they use for leather washers on antique hubs. (In as much as I appreciate a good antique vehicle, there is something to be said for modern technology!



Give me a roller bearing axle anyday over fussing with antique wheels.)

Myrna


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## RhineStone (Feb 4, 2011)

hobbyhorse23 said:


> My Graber in particular tends to work the nuts loose and I check it before every show in the process of cleaning it up.


If you are not talking about wheel nuts, you can use Nyloc (sp?) nuts on places where they tend to work loose.


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## jleonard (Feb 4, 2011)

RhineStone said:


> When we got home after the show, the wheels were taken completely off, new bearings were packed and put in, and some time later we also discovered about the use of Castle nuts and cotter pins for holding the wheel on. Chad had to drill a small hole in the axle and insert a cotter pin, and since then the wheel hasn't wanted to wobble off.


I learned the value of cotter pins this summer when I was 'gatoring for a big horse driver and had a wheel fall off of the carriage while walking back to the barn after marathon, the ensuing runaway was not a pretty sight. We still don't know how it happened, but if there had been a pin it wouldn't have!

Great topic, I never knew what kind a maintenance was necessary to keep a cart safe other than checking that everything was tight!


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## TMR (Feb 5, 2011)

Many carts also are using sealed bearings. My Graber and EE have two sealed bearings instead of the open tapered bearings.

I own an auto parts store so bearings and seals is one of my favorite topics at the store. Here is a little bearing 101 schooling. The picture that Myrna showed have bearings that are called tapered roller bearings. What the picture doesn't show is the race (cup) that the bearing sits in. This race (cup) is pressed into the hub. If you ever have a bearing lock up, the race should also be replaced. This kind of set up usually has grease zerks in the hub for you to grease them and this should be done regularly. However, do not over grease as it can push out the grease seal. Two or three pumps with a grease gun is usually sufficient and of course depending on how much you use it.

The other option that many carts have are the sealed bearing and it is exactly as stated a sealed bearing that cannot be greased as it is sealed and there is no grease seal. The only way to really check these is to lift one side and spin the wheel, then check the other side. If it spins freely and continues spinning then the bearings are good. If there is any hesitation or slows quickly, then you need to be checking into the bearings or any other possible problem.

Also remember that there should usually be a washer (or two) between the frame and the hub of the vehicle. Otherwise you can tighten up the wheel against the frame and it will not spin. (Learned the hard way)

You can go to most any (competent) auto parts store and they can get the bearings for you. I hope all of this makes sense and helps.

Donna


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## Sandee (Feb 5, 2011)

Fasinating topic. Thank you, Donna. I'm about as lost with the cart parts as I would be with the working of a computer.





I used to ride my bicycle all over as a kid but never did learn to do any work on it. I'm the same with the cart now and I really hate relying on some stranger to come along and "fix" things for me.


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## Reignmaker Miniatures (Feb 5, 2011)

Donna, thank you. Your explanation was very clear.

So... so far, suggested cart maintenance is, check all nuts/bolts and be sure they are tight. Lift one side at a time and check bearings. Find out if the bearings are sealed and if not re-grease. Check spokes and (on wire spoke wheels) tighten as necessary. Anything I've left out or missed? Of course I'm summarizing and for people to do the job correctly they will need a bit more of the info that has been shared here. Anyone have anything more?


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## Sandee (Feb 5, 2011)

Just to get someone started. How about any ideas for covering up or repairing nicks scrapes etc. so your cart at the show doesn't look like you had to use it for all those days of practice?





I know that I've used a small pen/paint tube that's for cars (enamel) that's sold at Wallyworld in all sorts of colors.


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## Reignmaker Miniatures (Feb 5, 2011)

Ohh, thats brilliant Sandee! Perfect ad-on for this thread, make sure its safe, then make it look as good as you can



Come on LB posters, I'm counting on you for lots of ideas here.


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## RhineStone (Feb 6, 2011)

When we sell a vehicle, we make sure that the owner has some of the paint for touch-up. You can get the small bottles from the auto parts store, but they might not match exactly. Even all blacks are not the same. So try to get a small bottle from the manufacturer, then make sure you keep the cap on tight when not in use. And make sure that you SHAKE the touch-up paint before applying. I made that mistake once. The blue that I touched up with was darker than the paint on the cart because I didn't shake it first.





As far as what to do for prep work, it really depends on the damage. If it is just a scrape, then just use a small brush and paint it like you would paint your nails. You will NEVER get it as good as the original finish. That is also why you need to "baby" your painted carts.

Stained carts are MUCH easier to touch-up and make look great again. I HIGHLY recommend that if you are only going to have one good show cart, get a stained one for that reason, no matter what the "trend' is in the show ring. You will drive yourself crazy trying to keep a painted one good.

To fix a stained cart, just apply a little matching stain to the scratch, and then I suggest getting some spray can spar or polyurethane in the finish of the cart, i.e. gloss for gloss, or semi etc. If you have a large area, you have to gently sand the area around the scratch, and then spray the spar urethane over the area basically following the directions.

You can get matching paint in a "spray bomb" (can) from the local auto parts store and try to use the above technique on a painted cart, but if the cart is pinstriped you will have a hard time missing the striping with the overspray. Usually, you want to keep your touch-ups as small as possible on a painted vehicle. On a metal cart, the spray bomb works well. Be sure to turn the can upside down to clear the nozzle.

If you are totally refinishing a vehicle and want an adequate finish, always spray it on. Brushing paint on any vehicle will NEVER give you the smooth finish you want (other than a touch-up). Powdercoating is also good for metal vehicles, but it doesn't work so well for springs or areas with a lot of movement. We actually have flexer added to auto paint for springs. If you want an awesome finish, you will need to go to a professional. That is a whole other topic.

Myrna


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## Marsha Cassada (Feb 6, 2011)

I replaced the bearings on my Jerald Runabout. I was not aware that bad bearings could cause trouble until I had the wheels off to be powder coated; my husband noticed the bearings needed to be replaced. The consequence of continuing to drive with bad bearings on sealed bearing wheels, is replacement of the entire wheel. We ordered new bearings from Jerald, but I have since found a less expensive source. There are 4 bearings on the cart, two on each side.


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## RhineStone (Feb 7, 2011)

TMR said:


> This kind of set up usually has grease zerks in the hub for you to grease them and this should be done regularly.


Our marathon vehicle has grease zerks (thank you for the spelling. I just know what Chad calls them) in the "top" of the hub in between the spokes, but the flush and the Sarvens don't, so you take the hub cap off. The first wooden vehicle we bought had zerks in the hub cap itself so we didn't have to take it off, but we replaced those with brass hub caps.

Interestingly, we learned last weekend at the Carriage Association of America conference that there were antique hubs that required oil instead of grease, so a friend of ours showed how you had/have to try to get oil into the horizontal hub. It is quite a trick. I think I'll stick with roller bearing hubs, at least until an absolutely awesome antique vehicle comes around that I absolutely have to have!







TMR said:


> Also remember that there should usually be a washer (or two) between the frame and the hub of the vehicle. Otherwise you can tighten up the wheel against the frame and it will not spin.


Ah, yes. Since those weren't in the photo, I didn't remember to include them in the list. Depending on how the axle is manufactured will determine how many washers you need. And they are pretty good size washers, about the size of a silver dollar. This is also the reason that cotter pin is important. Technically, that wheel is only as tight as is necessary to keep it from wobbling. Yes, if it is too tight, it won't spin. Chad actually spins the wheel as he is tightening the nut to see how tight it needs to be before inserting the cotter pin The cotter pin sits in between those "turrets" and that is how it keeps the nut from spinning off.

It's amazing how you need ALL those parts. If you are missing one, it just won't work as well.





Myrna


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## hobbyhorse23 (Feb 7, 2011)

RhineStone said:


> *Stained carts are MUCH easier to touch-up and make look great again.* I HIGHLY recommend that if you are only going to have one good show cart, get a stained one for that reason, ...
> To fix a stained cart, just apply a little matching stain to the scratch, and then I suggest getting some spray can spar or polyurethane in the finish of the cart, i.e. gloss for gloss, or semi etc. ...


That only works if you have stain on hand or know how to get a matching one!



For many of us it's way easier to paint on "black nail polish" we can buy at Walmart or any auto supply store than to properly sand down wood, restain, refinish, and hope it comes out the same.



RhineStone said:


> You can get matching paint in a "spray bomb" (can) from the local auto parts store and try to use the above technique on a painted cart, but if the cart is pinstriped you will have a hard time missing the striping with the overspray.


I would use painter's tape to mask off the pinstriping then spray away.



RhineStone said:


> Depending on how the axle is manufactured will determine how many washers you need. And they are pretty good size washers, about the size of a silver dollar. This is also the reason that cotter pin is important. ...It's amazing how you need ALL those parts. If you are missing one, it just won't work as well.


Wow. How come none of my carts, to the best of my knowledge, has any of those parts??



I've never opened the hub on any of them so if the cotter pin is inside then I'm not so worried, but otherwise...



I've taken my pneumatic tires on and off quite a few times and never seen a washer.







RhineStone said:


> Technically, that wheel is only as tight as is necessary to keep it from wobbling. Yes, if it is too tight, it won't spin. Chad actually spins the wheel as he is tightening the nut to see how tight it needs to be


That's how my dad showed me to do it. I lift the wheel off the ground, spin it, and tighten the nut just enough that it can't wobble but will spin freely for as long as it wants.

How do you tighten the spokes on a pneumatic tire?

Leia


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## RhineStone (Feb 7, 2011)

hobbyhorse23 said:


> That only works if you have stain on hand or know how to get a matching one! For many of us it's way easier to paint on "black nail polish" we can buy at Walmart or any auto supply store than to properly sand down wood, restain, refinish, and hope it comes out the same.


If you are doing a small scratch, stain is easier to touch up and make it blend inconspicuously than trying to get that paint to look like it was there in the first place. Sometimes, there just isn't any sanding that you can do if it is deep. You are better off to leave it alone and just replace the color. If you are talking a major break that you are trying to match, like if you broke a shaft and need to replace just one, then it is more challenging to match, especially since stain darkens with age.



hobbyhorse23 said:


> I would use painter's tape to mask off the pinstriping then spray away.


Good suggestion!



hobbyhorse23 said:


> How come none of my carts, to the best of my knowledge, has any of those parts?? I've never opened the hub on any of them so if the cotter pin is inside then I'm not so worried, but otherwise...


 Because you've never opened the hub!



Those parts are all inside the hub of a Flush or Sarven hub. If you don't have a cart with either of those hubs on a roller bearing axle, you might not have those parts!
Myrna


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## hobbyhorse23 (Feb 7, 2011)

Phew!

Leia


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## Sue_C. (Feb 7, 2011)

> How do you tighten the spokes on a pneumatic tire?


You can take them to a cycle shop.


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## TMR (Feb 7, 2011)

It would be best to take a spoked wheel (bicycle style) to a bike shop. There is more to tightening or changing out spokes than just putting them in or tightening them up. They should be trued. The spokes are what makes the wheels round and even (true), if they are not trued you will have problems. If one side is tighter than the other, the rim will warp, which if you have ever cycled on a bike with warped rims you will know what I am talking about. True the wheels up and you ride straight again.

Once again, I don't know if this made any sense. I seem to know what I want to say, but can't seem to type it the same way. Boy do I miss spoken conversations.

Donna


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## Marsha Cassada (Feb 7, 2011)

Sue_C. said:


> You can take them to a cycle shop.


My Jerald spoked pnuematic wheels do not have spokes that can be adjusted. They are fixed. They are not bicycle wheels, they are industrial wheels. They use bicyle tubes and tires, but the wheels themselves are not for a bicycle.

Just because a wheel has spokes does not mean it can/should be adjusted.

I think the idea of articles like this in a club newsletter is an excellent idea!


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## Sue_C. (Feb 8, 2011)

When I said cycle shop, I meant as in motorcycles...they too have spoked wheels, and are very heavy as you can imagine. NOT all spoked wheels are light duty, believe me, you can get very heavy spokes, and many of them can still be tightened, and or straightened _to a degree_. The ones I have in a couple of my carts are super heavy duty, but when you take the tire and tube out, and remove the rubber binding, you can see they are threaded.


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## Carriage (Feb 8, 2011)

Marsha Cassada said:


> My Jerald spoked pnuematic wheels do not have spokes that can be adjusted. They are fixed. They are not bicycle wheels, they are industrial wheels. They use bicyle tubes and tires, but the wheels themselves are not for a bicycle.
> 
> Just because a wheel has spokes does not mean it can/should be adjusted.
> 
> I think the idea of articles like this in a club newsletter is an excellent idea!


Marsha speaks truly. This is referred to as a welded hub (style) wheel. If spokes in this style of wheel are, broken, bent, loose or rusted, the wheel needs to be replaced, not later, but now. Not replacing this wheel INSURES a failure.

The wheel is the heart of the cart. As such, a stint, angioplasty or a bypass will not help ( a whole different topic for another board), you need a new heart. DO IT! Blaming the preceding failure on the type of wheel that it is whether pneumatic or airless IN GENERAL would not be true. In this case the failure occurs due to lack of maintenance and attention. Mr. Hance and I share the same engineering based view on this and it was he that clued me into this truism with a quietly asked question. I definitely respect his engineering chops enough to listen carefully! I would be curious to know who is currently making this wheel as the mfr. stopped building them about 3 years ago and it has sidelined one of our older style trail rigs.

As Miss Marsha stated there are other wheels that are tunable and repairable. Both spokes and spoke nipples can be replaced as well as rim and hub and there is far more latitude regarding repair and adjustment of such a wheel. Again if it needs done, DO IT!

Cracked rubber on a tire has been rightfully addressed. Let me add that chronic mis-inflation is also a problem that I consistently see. Now, we use a tire that allows us to play with inflation levels depending on terrain. This is not what I'm referring to. Chronic under inflation can and does put additional stress on the rim during tight cornering. Not to mention the obvious and possible resulting blow-out failure. So pay attention to tire inflation and make it a part of your constant routine.

Miss Myrna has addressed bearings and the packing of open bearings. Examination of such a bearing for knicks and burning should be part of the routine. Again if this is the style of bearings you have...

wait for it....

DO IT!

We use a "sealed" bearing which does reduce maintenance time. However they too need to be inspected at regular intervals. If the bearing faces are cracked or dented, or there is roughness in their rotational operation, they need to be replaced. Usually inspecting the inside of the bearing, hidden from view, can be accomplished with a light while you look in from the other side of the wheel. Shine the light past the bearing closest to you to the inside of the hub to see the inside of the opposite bearing. Perform this check for both sides of both wheels.

Our motto has always been "Save your money and buy well ONCE!" I believe that the same motto applies to replacement as well.

Consider this please, repair and or replacement will ALWAYS be cheaper than having a new hospital wing named for you or your horse. http://www.miniaturehorsetalk.com/public/style_emoticons/default/yes.gif

To work,

Bb

Graham Carriage Works

www.grahamcarriageworks.com


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## hobbyhorse23 (Feb 8, 2011)

Thank you everyone, especially TMR and Bob! That was really interesting to read. I noticed just before the ocean trip that three of the spokes on my EE are slightly bent and made a note to replace the wheel but haven't done so yet and have continued to drive on it. Bad idea! I'll call Frontier in the next few days and order a new set.

Leia


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## Reignmaker Miniatures (Feb 8, 2011)

I can't thank you all enough for sharing your knowledge and thoughts on keeping carts in good repair.




I believe too many of us are just driving without concerning ourselves with the risk we take when we fail to make absolutely sure our equipment is in good repair. It is easy enough to notice a cracked or worn harness part (for those who pay _any_ kind of attention) but so often when nothing 'appears' wrong no one looks. I for one will be going over ALL my equipment before the driving season gets underway this year and I hope that the other members of our local club will find the information useful to them and do the same. Now to begin drafting the article before the next issue of the newsletter. Again if anyone thinks of any points they think should be added please post it.


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## Carriage (Feb 8, 2011)

Sorry Donna,

Looks like you had covered the bearing thing already.

bb


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## TMR (Feb 8, 2011)

No problem Bob. We can never over state the importance of checking bearings, having it repeated often and in different ways is always a good thing. It never ceases to amaze me how many people don't check bearings in their horse trailers, let alone their carts. This should be a yearly event.

Just to clarify...The wheel spokes I was talking about earlier, are the thinner bicycle style wheels that come on many cheaper and homemade easy entry carts. These are the ones you could take to a bicycle shop to have the wheels trued. The heavier spoked wheels that Sue C was speaking of I am not as familiar with.

Donna


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## RhineStone (Feb 8, 2011)

Carriage said:


> Chronic under inflation can and does put additional stress on the rim during tight cornering. Not to mention the obvious and possible resulting blow-out failure. So pay attention to tire inflation and make it a part of your constant routine.


And make sure you check and inflate your tires WITHOUT the horse put to....no matter how "calm" your horse is. I know of a wreck that destroyed an Easy Entry cart because they decided to inflate the tire while put to. The pony got away from the header (no driver in the cart) and proceeded to drag the cart around the farm at a full run until they were able to get her stopped. Fortunately, the pony was no worse for wear and still drives today.

Myrna


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## Carriage (Feb 9, 2011)

RhineStone said:


> And make sure you check and inflate your tires WITHOUT the horse put to....no matter how "calm" your horse is.
> 
> Myrna


VERY good point.

Bb


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