# Weighted boots, chain boots, bands, and ankle bracelets



## mydaddysjag (Apr 13, 2009)

Other than the obvious, what is the differences in these devices? I'm not asking weather you approve of using them or anything like that, just simply what is the difference and when is each one used apposed to the other. Also, please note if used for driving, or halter conditioning. If you use them, how often do you use them, how long, what is the maximum weight you work up to, and what do you accomplish with them.

Chain Action Boots -

Weighted Bell Boots -

Weighted Bands -

Weighted Ankle Bracelets -


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## Miniv (Apr 13, 2009)

All I know is that MAN can extend the performance of a horse with each item you listed.

I ABHORE each item. It IS possible to BREED for every action generated and that is what a serious and true breeder should be striving for, in my opinion.

I know you didn't ask for an opinion, but I still volunteered it. Yes, a trainer can manufacture a version, but a good horse person and a good judge knows the difference.

***A number of years ago I was sitting on the porch of a long time pony and mini horse judge and she asked me how to tell if a performance horse (pony or mini) had natural action or "banded" action........****

Thank heaven I knew the answer --- I told her that it was how the horse WALKED. (I got 4 stars.




)


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## ruffian (Apr 13, 2009)

Any of these can be used safely when used properly.

The chain boots have more of a slap action against the hoof and ankle, so IMO is more aggressive

The weighted bands are simply building more muscle which then can improve lift when taken off. When used on clean legs, and not going overboard with the weights, IMO they are OK to use.

Not sure what the difference is between the bands and bracelets.

Now using elastic tubing and pulleys to increase action is a whole nother world, and I do NOT agree with using those. I have a video showing how to use, and the trainer admits that they had to "Scar" up a pony's back because she didn't want to drop her spine.


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## mydaddysjag (Apr 13, 2009)

So it's safe to assume that they would help build chest and shoulder muscle on a halter horse, and possibly help a hunter horse tuck his legs a little better? I have one horse who needs more muscling in the shoulder area, despite conditioning, and a different horse who likes to jump, carries himself nicely, but doesn't always tuck his legs as nice as he can. Considering these for them, but there are a lot of products, so wanted to make sure I knew what each was for first. I know you can get them in different weights, some are removable weights, some come in different intervals, such as 2oz, 4oz, and 6oz. What is the average weight to use once the horse is accustomed to them?


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## Keri (Apr 13, 2009)

I have used the bands and the chain boots. I personally like the bands (think they are the same as the ankle bracelets). They are filled with sand, very easy to put on and safe as far as if the horse hits his legs with his other leg. The chains are alright, but I saw more of an improvement/work out with the bands. Plus the chain boots buckle on and its a bit more of a pain to add/remove. But I like the fact that you can add more chains to make it heavier/lighter. Where as the bands are one weight (but much easier to put on with the double velcro). I think all mine are 4oz weights.


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## Leeana (Apr 13, 2009)

I have weighted bell boots, chain action boots and then the fetlock bracelets that are weighted..not sure on the exact weight but they are the red ones from Star Lake.

I do not use mine as much for long term action, more so for conditioning / round pen work. Generally when i put a horse in the roundpen i will warm them up at a trot or let them burn off some energy a few minutes, then will tie them and put on one of the weights above of some sort, depends on the horse and what they need and where they need it and what i think they can handle. Will work them out with the weights - then tie and remove the weights then work agian free with no weights in the roundpen. I feel this works better...warm them up, work them out, cool them out and i REALLY feel that trotting without the weights after working them in the weights is the trick. If i have a horse that is hocky i'll work them mostly with bracelets on their back legs too...has worked great.

The weighted bell boots do not make much of a difference really...hardly consider them weighted. Chain action bracelets are about the most extreme...i would not use them on the little refined 31" yearling i have in the barn, but my 2yr old B gelding and classic mare for sure. My preference over al is the red fetlock bracelets. The red seems to work for all of the horses pretty well. I also do not find bands and pully type aids cruel, just another training method.


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## disneyhorse (Apr 14, 2009)

As far as "weighted things" go, anything you put on each pastern is going to have the same effectiveness. I don't think the style (bell boots, chains, etc.) is what matters, it is the weight. I will say I was unhappy with the "chain action boots" (the commercially available ones with removable chains) because of the placement of the chains, it irritated the coronet band/hoof wall where they hit. If I used chains, it would be more of a kicking chain or full link sort that goes around.

At any rate, adding a bit of weight will encourage the horse to use its muscles more than normal, which will build muscle. This is akin to someone working out at the gym... you are pushing the body to work harder than it normally does during its routine. However, just like working out at the gym, you can't push too hard and risk injury.

I would follow the advice that Leeana gave... to add the weighted aids DURING the workout but not for the ENTIRE workout. Thus, the length of time they are on will vary according to the horse. If your horse only has a 15-20 minute workout, those weights will only be on for about 5 minutes or so in there. If your horse builds muscle and athleticism, you may be able to use them a little bit longer. You must be careful about working your horse too hard, too fast, with too much weight because you do not want to risk damaging the ligaments and tendons in the leg.

As far as weight goes, I don't think I would exceed four ounces for a mini. My 43" Shetland pony is wearing 4.5 ounce keg shoes, and that adds a LOT of action to his trot. So I would think that 4 oz. would be max for a mini. I would start at two ounces for a short period of time and build up if that is where you are headed.

Ruffian mentioned elastic tubing (bungees) and pulleys (shackles) to enhance action and these methods are a LOT more complicated and will definitely alter the action of an animal. These devices must be used with a lot more education and care. You most likely won't see these methods used on miniatures except maybe in the Pleasure and Park driving horses.

However, I must say that I have seen the video where the trainer mentions a scarred back for a horse that had difficulty dropping its back. I don't think the back dropping and injuries were related to the bungees and shackles. Usually, the dropping of the back is encouraged with the bitting rig, dumb jockeys, and in this trainer's case, wrapping a chain around the top of the surcingle. Therefore, the scars were caused by the use of the chain around the top of the saddle, not because of the bungees and shackles. These devices alone may not cause the horse to drop its back.

Andrea


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## Leeana (Apr 14, 2009)

> At any rate, adding a bit of weight will encourage the horse to use its muscles more than normal, which will build muscle. This is akin to someone working out at the gym... you are pushing the body to work harder than it normally does during its routine. However, just like working out at the gym, you can't push too hard and risk injury.
> I would follow the advice that Leeana gave... to add the weighted aids DURING the workout but not for the ENTIRE workout. Thus, the length of time they are on will vary according to the horse. If your horse only has a 15-20 minute workout, those weights will only be on for about 5 minutes or so in there. If your horse builds muscle and athleticism, you may be able to use them a little bit longer. You must be careful about working your horse too hard, too fast, with too much weight because you do not want to risk damaging the ligaments and tendons in the leg.


I wanted to quote this as how i actually came up with that, im sure other trainers use it too, but my two older brothers were body builders for some time and they would exert the muscle and then let it rest and relax and then work it agian except not as hard (ei - remove the leg weights). This has REALLY worked for me this year ..

Here is the filly last year when i was just working her in the pen regular (not weights or anything) and

Then after the above rutine - i will roundpen her about 5 minutes at a trot or until i can get her down to a trot and burn of that extra steam (believe..she has plenty) and then will apply the aids (i use chain action on the front, red bracelets on the back..some days just bracelets on the front) for about 6 or 7 minutes, then remove those and work about 8 or so minutes at a trot after that. Once you apply the weights, they hold a trot very well....even my high energy horses who prefer to canter in the roundpen will hold a trot all the way with the aids on....notice the muscle and tone developed. She is a 2yr old classic over filly...i think she looks more "pumped" then back in Oct.

Before..Oct'ish






After..about week ago





















Okay...second example





Twister was put on basically the same as above. He also has PLENTY of energy so could work him 5 minutes regular (or until whenever he decided to trot..) and then would put the red bracelets on his front leg and then a toy size dog collar on his back feet (no weight) for about 5 or so minutes, and then remove those and trot (i would leave the dog collars on the back legs though) for about 6 or 7 mins.

...he is really fun to watch, just the slightest weight (like the dog collar) and he completely exaggerates and moved around the roundpen like a fine harness pony..could not bring those hocks or knees up any higher.

Before i started on him..






After..recently
















Also..i think the biggest part is just having something there that makes them pay attention and use more effort so i think you could actually just use like toy size dog collars and get the same effect.


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## Relic (Apr 14, 2009)

We use 6 oz bell boots we start them out early spring lunging for 5 minutes add poles and the boots for 5 minutes take them of and lunge another 5 minutes...thats 5 minutes each direction to start then worked up to 20/25 minutes each direction thats all we do for exercise for the drivers or halter horses.. This is 32" Rowdy after about 3 weeks wearing his last year going over poles and getting in shape and ready for driving and jumping..


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## willowoodstables (Apr 14, 2009)

This is how I increase motion..

Drag work..by the time these little farts are ready to pull a cart or go in halter class they have chest and butt muscles that will improve their motion. I use leather dog collars on all four feet. They walk walk walk in the drag and then trot a couple mins and then done.

Here is the 3 yr old in the drag, sans bands as it is only his third trip. Once he is tracking good and well muscled I will add the leathers.



Kim

FWIW any training aid can be misused. Never attempt something that you saw someone else do. Get an expert to show you. I was taught by a master all the tricks of the trade, and would hesitate to utilize these methods on a regular basis. Once in a blue moon, and only if really necessary..which is never LOL


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